ferrariowner123

Do i wrap all of the metal connector or just the base of it? -Kyle

Didn't feel like buying the $20 monitor holder to get it a little higher, and then i remembered i had these books! lol And yeah, if you think im being anal about it, check out this dudes S13 build, http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/357297-broadfield-build-ls3-v8-time-aero.html Guy is an attention to detail maniac! I use that for my inspiration, plus i just HATE wires, i went color coded to keep me sane during the install, but i sure DO NOT want others to see any of it, i day dream of tucking the fuse boxes into the glove box and center console. How so? Can i just cut the shielding off and heat shrink the bare metal connections? and how far up the connector do i want to go to avoid corrosion? I'll eventually do that, these were cheap and came with a mounting point, next time i'm at the junkyard ill pick up a dozen or so. -Kyle

http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/ http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html they are crap, using crap materials, credit goes to Towncivilian for showing me these studies a while back... -Kyle

Warn on Summit, $180 shipped, not bad, i have no clue what i paid for mine 2 years ago, i think i paid like $168? if i had to guess, but mile markers are CHEAP. I would get the MM's if you are just after mileage, both the Warn's and MM's do the same thing, i went with WARN's after reading about the good customer service and several people saying they broke MM's out the trails, but that's when i was making my pathy into a trail rig, with plans of lifting her... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wrn-29091?seid=srese1&gclid=COmDlpH0sbwCFQPZQgodun8ACA -Kyle

I'd like to know that too, because i don't think Andy's 96' or my 96' have that... i saw a thread on here recently where someone figured out how to put a Z31 300zx rear LSD into the front of his WD21, i wonder if our R50's have something similar, where another differential will fit up there... -Kyle

Got started with wiring on the car, going to have a totally hidden fuse and relay setup behind the windshield washer bottle, surprising amount space in there. Ignore the two screw holes, apparently my fuse block is nearly the exact height of the box "frame" section in the front end of the car, so when i drilled my pilot holes, i was right on the edge of the frame, i figured that out after breaking two drill bits and schering two screw in there, hence the wicked angle at which the block is at... But i plan to run all my wiring through the massive hole that Nissan politely put on the fender, just in front of the fender next to the battery and just follow the harness as it crosses the core support, should not even be able to see it when its all done. Paint is there to prevent any future rust. And this is shot through the passenger indicator, should stay pretty dry in there. My only concern is the slight slit between the fender liner and the inner fender, maybe some water might sneak in there from being kicked up there from the tire, but as far as the rest of the car, the bumper and lower valance will protect this setup fairly well, but insulated quick disconnect's are a must, just got the rest in today, so i'm going to, like i said before, wiring all of this up to my stock setup and test everything, make sure the wiring i have in mind will actually work. But until then, that's all i got, need to find some work soon so i can get some sheet metal on this thing. -Kyle

Check the exhaust manifolds for cracks, air can get in between them and mess with the O2 sensors. at least that is what i am hoping to case is with my pathfinder and why my mileage is around 13-14. -Kyle

It's a bit tricky, but you should be able to move the hard line up just a smige and it should just side out. Not too much, but just to enough to slide the cover out of the way. Pretty much just repeating what the instructions say, but that's how it worked for me. -Kyle

Alight, so I've made some small progress. I went to this place called "all battery sales and service" out in Everett, WA and first thing i have to say is DON'T GO THERE, use their online store, way easier to shop around, good deals on wiring and such, just do not set foot in their "store". Anyway, here is all that i got. Couple of relays, bunch of different gauge wiring (color coded!!) and some other misc stuff, still waiting on my female spade's and fuse panel. I've also got some braided wire looming coming to keep it clean while its under the hood... I also made a "wiring diagram" to best of my abilities, let me know if you see anything wrong... Excuse my awful hand writing, but basically, i followed this guide http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33824-jdm-light-install-on-the-r50/ Hopefully it all works, once everything gets here, i'm going to wire it in to my stock headlights, check that everything works, that way all i have to do when i get all of the sheet metal, is just change the connectors and plug them in. Also, I've decided not to go with HID's in the high beams, just going to stick with the factory recommended 60W or whatever halogens, just wire them so i can have Xenons and highs at the same time. The reason being that i could not find an HID kit that has OEM like charge rate, that was reasonably priced, so putting anything else that couldn't charge quickly would be completely pointless for a high beam application. But until i get around to getting some money for updated pathy parts, i'm sort of at a stand still. -Kyle

I've got the maths and came to the conclusion under the same assumptions, but its just that assumptions, i'm just triple checking, but you are correct, 10amps all round, since the bights will be 55W HID's And i just emailed the guy i bought the 6 pin connectors from to take a picture of the fuse box diagram to see what size Subaru used for, so that should put that one to rest, i completely forgot to fuse that.. Thanks for the reminder, first time wiring up anything like this before... -Kyle

Quick question for wiring... Im going to order some relay and fuses, what should i get? I read some of the older threads on how to wire up some JDM projectors, and they are using some generic wiring kit and some 30A realys. Im assuming that will work? Also, i just ordered one of these So i can get power to the relays directly from the battery, what amp fuses should i put in there? Thanks -Kyle

Theexbrit apparently tried to make to make a WD tire swing work, i offered to send him a junkyard swing from one my yards up here, they aren't particularly hard to find in the northwest (apparently ) . But keep in mind, its more than just the swing that is attached to the car. Its all of the support brackets and hardware behind the passenger tail light that makes that swing work, i have no idea exactly what is back there but its alot of parts that are going to be needed, I want what you want, updated pathy with a tire swing, happily my starting platform is one that came from the factory with a tire swing, so the rest is just bumper and lights. but going the other way, you're talking a whole quarter panel swap, you're better off buying the swing away bumpers from TAG. -Kyle EDIT: Thorpe is right though, tire swings were only featured on highly equipped first gen R50's between 96-97, so they are definitely getting hard to find , but not impossible, i'm starting to think it was a regional thing, because alot of people say they NEVER see factory tire swings, and i see them enough to think otherwise, at-least around here...

You know there is a hole already in the back gate for the licence plate lights right? I see no problem just running it through the existing holes from the factory.... -Kyle

But to actually contribute to this thread, i've seen this moron a couple of times around my local stomping grounds, still laugh and shake my head just as hard every time, very dizzying actually. But at any rate... Decent set of wheels i think, but the stickers are awful... -Kyle

Its a Japanese thing, almost all of the Terrano's over there have them, i don't know why they prefer the mirrors on the front fenders, i'm sure their is a good story behind it, but it started with mirrors only on the fenders, then moved to some combo or another of what you see her (regular mirrors and one passenger mounted fender mirror), and now they seem to be just like the rest of the world, mirrors on the doors or the vertex of the a pillar. At least that is my interpretation of the Japanese mirror migration of the last 50 years or so... -Kyle

Does your rear licence plate light make the camera washed out at all, with having a light source THAT close to the camera? -Kyle

Well i found it be the mere grace of god, and in the most unusual of places, so i can understand the frustration of searching for some diagrams. Pm me on where to get the S15 and STI parts/plugs from (if you still need them,), but here is what i used for wiring help. Firstly This page was great for figuring out what wire when where. http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/jdm-sti-hid-6-pin-2416.html?amp;t=2416&highlight=jdm+leveling+switch and for matching Subaru colors, i used this very lovely and helpful Subaru OEM diagram The colors are different for Subaru so if you end up scoring some 6 pin adjustment plugs off a Subaru, those guides will make perfect sense, if not here is what i BELIEVE the Nissan colors correspond to from the OEM pig tail that came on my JDM projectors Again, these colors below should correspond to colors that will appear on the JDM 6 pin adjustment plugs that will come from a wrecker in japan... Black = Ground Pink with light blue stripe = Power White with green stripe = Position 0 Black with reddish stripe - Position 1 Black with light blue stripe = Position 2 Red with white stripe = Position 3 That is the plug colors i was given with one of my projectors, the other plug is out an STI WRX, so the colors match the diagrams above. Again, i have yet to test this, i deduced that simply from matching pin locations from the Subaru diagrams and copied them over to the Nissan plugs. Im stilling waiting for someone to tell me it will be okay to plug everything up to a battery and check my wiring, i just need to know it will be okay. High and low beam should be pretty obvious so if you cant figure that out, step away now! And then then the side markers are sort of up in the air depending on what you have. While i was able to get a hold of a Subaru STI plug that uses the exact same layout, the pin configuration and sockets are way different and cannot simply switch over, you'll have to cut the Subaru 3 pin plug off its loom and solder it to the Nissan side markers, again, its pretty straight forward, i'm fairly certain that everything after the female plug is the exact same colors, black, green with black stripe, and green with white stripe, the only difference between the Nissan and Subaru plug is the Subaru plug has ground in the center pole and Nissan has it off to one side, so again, it SHOULD just be matching colors. And then for my Niles Nissan switch that came in a Subaru, the colors are printed on the diagram, so if yours are different, go the first link and then match pin locations, im fairly certain that pin 1-6 should do the same for your switch even if the wiring colors are different.. Hope that helps -Kyle

I agree, HID's improperly installed can be quite annoying, but my mom taught me a trick early on when i started driving, to avoid the "deer in headlights" effect, and what you do is stare at your outside white line and that will help you to focus off the bright lights coming at you, and keep your vehicle in your lane. Use it ever time and hasn't failed me yet. But banning them is something i'm not quite prepared to say i support, they have their advantages, i think more strict regulation from the manufactures is what needs to be put in place, and if the manufacture insist on installing HID's they should be required to have an auto leveling device, and maybe even something that would allow the lights to react to inclination as well, 90% of the time i get blinded by on coming HID's is when a driver is cresting a hill. That would be cool and while i could probably figure out an auto leveling system, i don't think it would be worth it. I've seen a euro 240sx version of these lights with what i assume are the same style of leveling motors and they are sort of slow, so having a suspension dependent headlight leveling would be impractical to how slow the lights move up and down. almost hazardous to the driver. But i had a question for some of the wiring guru's on here, I de-pined all of the plugs because i got another set of DRL/turn signal leveling and high beam pig tails from the guy who i bought the STI switch, turns out the STI uses all of the same plugs (For the most part, the DRL plugs is the same style but wont directly plug into the Nissan DRL plugs) as the Terrano JDM Xenon lights. And i'm using alot of the STI wiring guides to de-pin them, and my concern is there any reason that the pin outs would be different between the cars? i know its two completely different companies, but how many manual adjustment headlight motors can their be, especially ones that use the same adjustment wiring? Does anyone object to me testing this out by just running all of my wiring together off a battery and seeing if all of my connections are correct? i really want to try these out... -Kyle

Haha, much cheaper, But even on top of that adjustment, i'm going to run HID's in the High Beams, the hard part is going to be finding either, a kit or making an OEM HID work in the high beams housing. So that way i can turn them on and have them instantly charge, my buddy put a set of low end HID's in his high beams and they take so long to charge that they are insanely impractical for use in the high beams, 6-8 seconds before they are at their full brightness (they were VERY cheap), where as my dad's 2002 Acura TL Type S, its lights take maybe a second to be fully on, that is what i would want for an HID. If i cant find or make a solution that fits that need, some freakin' bright halogens will do. Plus i'll do the mod to make the high's and low work together, sort of a stupid regulation to make the low beams switch off when you turn the high beams on. Because the only time you are going to use your brights, or should use them is when you are on a dark, unlit road and need MAXIMUM visibility, so why would you want to turn off lights that would aid it giving additional visibility? Anyway, just ordered another leveling plug, high beam and maybe another low beam and side marker, well see, but the bulk as a good deal when all i really wanted was the adjustment plug. But that's all i got in terms of an update, other than i got my un-broken adjustment swtich, but you all know what that looks like... Next is going to be tracking down body parts. If anyone finds black front end parts, let me know, if the price is right, I WANT THEM!! -Kyle

Depending on the condition and color, It could be, But try asking the WD guys, its a common conversion to swap out their center's for R50 centers. so they'll have the best chance of doing that.. -Kyle

THATS EXACTLY WHAT I ORIGINALLY WANTED! Look like the exact same plug as the STI switch i got, which is great, means i dont need to find a harness in the event i need to switch it out something, think you could locate another for me in the event i need it? So that when someone cuts you off you can flash some 4500K HID's at them without using your high beams... That is A) The real reason i want them in and talking to a friend of mine who had an STI, that was all he used it for! -Kyle

Really, it peeled off? How many coats did you do? I have had a decent amount of success with plasti dip, learned early on to go heavy. and so far, its held up very well on my fender flares, except when i spilled gasoline on them once, that takes plasti dip right off, lol The only place i found that it doesn't work very well is anything you touch, your nails can leave very annoying scratches so i just recently peeled them off my handles. But powder coating, now your talking something that is going to last!! Cant wait to see that.

Wait a second, i thought you painted your wheels? What gives? Love the flaps though. -Kyle

DO NOT BUY the Dorman one from rockauto, mine wobbles and was a waste of $70. -Kyle

But, an actual update, i got my leveling switch. Came slightly broken, but the guy is sending me another one. Karmann the picture of the switch may answer your question, but it basically allows me to change the height of the headlights as I drive. But check this out, this switch came out of a 2005 Subaru WRX STI, look at the logo, haha... But, pretty much all i have left to source is another leveling plug, low beam, and side marker, but friends in japan are super helpful, hopefully he can find me some parts from an S15, lol -Kyle