gv280z

Do you have the title? Is the guy going to send it to you? If you do have the title, and he signed it over to you then you could let one of those car buyers (IQ Auto buyers in TX) come and give you cash for it, which I'm sure would be near market value. One problem though, you're going to have to pay the registration fee according to the blue book value of the truck. Atleast that's the way it is in TX, too many people were scamming on the whole "Uh, I paid 200 bucks for the car!" bit which ofcourse lowered the registration fee. I know the ones here will buy it even if it's wrecked or broken down, but you gotta have the title.

I just need a schematic to show how the factory foglights are supposed to be wired. I don't know how it happened but mine got all screwed up, where as they used to work. I could turn them off and on with the toggle switch but only when the headlights were turned on. Then I guess when I had my front seal and timing belt replaced the guys had to remove the bumper because and disconnect everything because now the right foglight stays on (if I put the fuse in the link) but goes off when I turn the headlights on, and then the left one comes on! I can't get them both on at the same time and I cannot turn off the right one unless I remove the fuse. Sorry for the thread hijack.

Mine actually does that sometimes, even though it's turned to economy at the time.

This happens to me sometimes too, my feeling is it is the transmission didn't downshift for whatever reason. I usually only notice this while offroading that I seem to be stuck in 2nd gear, even though I've been at a stop for a few moments. When this happens, all you can really do is turn off the car and let it reset, turn it back on and drive on.

Just adjust the two nuts on the bolt on either side of the bracket that holds that big rubber stopper on, move the "inside" nut down or out a few turns (toward the bottom of the bolt), tighten up the outside bolt and that's it. I just went through this very same thing. I accidentally bent the crap out of the bracket holding the stopper. I had a jetski trailer hitched up and I opened up the rear hatch for some reason, and closed it, forgot to lock the tire carrier shut and I pulled forward, it swung hard and hit the front of the trailer and bent that bracket a full 90 degrees. I had to use a large wrench to bend it back so that the rubber stopper is facing the tire carrier light button / on / off switch when you close the carrier. Because of all this, my carrier rattled and I had to adjust those nuts to tighten it up. If you back both nuts down a little bit, it'll close tighter and the rattle will stop. I had to make this work so the rattling wouldn't drive my wife nuts cuz I didn't want her to find out I did something stupid and kinda messed up the latch! So, trust me, I know what I'm talking about!

Damn man...I think I would really try and find an engine for it, barring that then I would immediately yank the tires and rims, I think they should fit and look good, and grab the roof rack and then just try and part out the rest...but I think that would kinda be a shame, would really like to get it running again.

Precise 1 your truck is just about perfect, that is roughly my goal, if I could gradually spend the doh and get away with it without setting off the wife alarm, which is like moving at the pace of about a centimeter a month...I've already got my 31" tires, now I just want some cooler looking rims and do a spacer insert for the rear springs and crank the t bars in the front and then try to get it aligned, hopefully the alignment guys aren't like 'Well, uhh your cranked up too high in the front, we gonna HAVE to bring that down man!' Maybe in a couple of years I might be able to step to a 32" or 33" but the bigger heavier tires with the larger diameter raises the over all gear ratio which lowers torque and adds strain to the engine and drive train so I might just stop with the 32" x 11.50 But yes, you and I seem to fall inline as far as these things go, your truck looks great. Very smart.

Ever since I was a young guy, I don't know, somewhere in my teens or earlier maybe, I always wanted a 4x4. The Toyota in Back to the Future probably had a lot to do with it. Anyway, now that I've got one of course I want to play in the mud with it, and also wanted to be able to be useful in emergency offroad situations. As we all know this requires traction and clearance, & power and ofcourse what a rabbit hole that is to fall into. After watching offroading videos on Youtube for hours, and this one inparticular (not offroading vid but this guy is stuck in the mud, literally) http://safeshare.tv/w/kRRyGqbZGQ I eventually came to a realization about mudding and your vehicle and You: ANYTHING CAN GET STUCK. Boom, there it is. Seeing a 10" lifted monster redneck truck with 37" boggers get stuck (just a generic generalization from watching youtube vids) and the aforementioned guy stuck up to his knees in mud puts it all into perspective for me atleast. We put so much emphasis on tires and traction, but the reality is that even if you've got a set of TSL Super Swampers on your ride and you wander off into something deeper than 2/3rds the height of the tire (thick mud) with a stock ride height now you've involved the axles and the undercarriage, the chassis, and you gonna get stuck. With a lift ofcourse this is staved off a bit but the A-Arms and rear axle are still being dragged through the mud. So far I'm happy with my new Coopers, and only a small part of me..maybe 20% I feel like I want to upgrade to an M/T, put a bit of a lift, AND THAT'S IT! Psychologically I am set against allowing myself to fall down that rabbit hole when I KNOW bigger, meaner and WAAAAY more expensive trucks than mine get stuck in mud that they shouldn't have wondered into, Ofcourse this is akin to comparing a toddlers stride to an adult stride, but I guess (maybe it's just me) it's always kinda seemed like there was a point of demarcation that if you have Y=Tire size times Z=lift / truck size divided by HP, then X = NEVER GETTING STUCK....it's not true. For me, I'm not going to waste the time, effort or money. I love the classic look of my WD21 and don't want to mess it up. I know that stock this truck was one tough SOB and that I feel lucky to own one in good condition I haven't had to put that much in repairs to. I know this is a hard core offroading website where I guess it kind of IS the point to go overboard and enjoy setting your imagination on cruise control and BELIEVE me I get that 100% I don't mean to step on anyones toes, and some of you guys here have done some incredible things with your trucks. Personally for my life I can't allow myself to get caught up in some of that stuff. I do LOVE to tinker with stuff and invest lots of time and effort on trying to improve, re-invent, re-imagine and put my own personal spin on something. I used to be really into R/C cars and rock crawlers and playing with store bought toys and putting way too fast motors and hobby grade electronics and stuff into them somehow, even though they weren't designed for it. I get it. Maybe I'm getting older, maybe my wife has corrupted (straightened out) my imagination and drive to waste lots of time and money on fun but pointless projects, who knows. When I began to plan this post, I didn't know it was going to turn into this, didn't really mean for it to go on like this. Just meant to express a feeling and this all poured out, I guess after seeing that guy that got stuck while WALKING in the mud it made me think, if this guy can get stuck like that, anything can. Gotta get back to work! Almost time to go home too...gotta get some work done. Greg

31" Cooper AT 3 for now. I'd like to go bigger at some point but no more than 33", probably would stop at 32 x 11.50 / 15 and put a bit of a lift..some springs or spacers and crank.

Please forgive me, I had no idea all my Retarded was hanging out when I posted. I totally missed that you're driving a late model R50, which is fine, I just thought it was older. I get to reading different posts in here and forget sometimes to look at what people are driving, I forget they're not all WD21s. Yours is at the very tip toey end of the likeable Pathfinder line for me.

Your GPS doesn't know you're parked. Nice work, looks handy. What's even better is it's wet gloppy mud in the eye of everyone that thinks vehicles are trash just because they're a little older or from a different generation. (I DO feel that way about most American cars) Now here you guys are, the whole family unit out having a good time with everything loaded up in the faithful Pathy that would give its life to protect you and get you safely where you need to go. That's nice.

My first 1/4 tank usually gets me about 60 miles or so. There are only about a gazillion things that could be affecting your mileage: Tires under inflated, restrictive air cleaner (recommend drop in K&N by default, always) restrictive exhaust (mine is all stock btw) O2 sensor, your over drive is disengaged, old / bad cap and rotor / plug wires, spark plugs (NGK V-Power or Super G or platinum) old / dirty fuel filter under the hood, these are easy to change, dirty throttle body, dirty mass airflow sensor, get a can of MAF cleaner and spray inside the air filter box. Try running some really good gas i.e. Chevron / Shell premium and bottle or two of some Sea Foam or Lucas tune up in a bottle, or some STP fuel treatment. Look into getting a Gunk 3 step process performed at your local lube n tune shop. If the previous owner ever had any timing belt change and it was at a reputable place there should be a sticker / lable thing showing mileage performed at when you raise the hood, it'll be there on the front of the frame engine compartment, somewhere near the hood catch / release. This is just part of the process of you and your new ride getting to know each other, it'll take some time.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31473-hid-projectors-installed-w-pics/?hl=%20red%20%20lights I remembered seeing this so thought I'd just post it up for you. I gotta say though, this guy REALLY wanted this project to go through, I don't think I would have had the stones to pull it off. This wasn't just some simple remove and replace job.

I know from experience that soldiers serving at Ft. Lewis, WA do have access to an on base do it yourself shop that has open bays, tools, lifts, jacks and stands. It's near the southern most gate to I-5 toward Olympia. Only a small fee required, if any, I don't really remember.

Nissan's philosophy on car building: Design a GREAT engine and then build the car / truck / van / suv around that little jewel and the entire market shares the same bullet proof heart. The Big 3 U.S. auto maker philisophy: (excluding the 302 / 305 / 318 / 350 engines, okay...sheesh) design a basically crappy car and throw a basic low buck, low design engine into every different car. The domestic 4 cyl and inline 6 they put in the Jeep..I mean, what are they? Do they have a name and people talk about them i.e. KA 24, SR 20, or 20R, 22R, VG30? No, they're just basic hunks of metal designed to be as in-efficient and simple (not in a good way) as possible. I hate most of the waste of space and fuel domestic cars still running around this nation, I don't know why cars like the Pontiac sunbird or Buick LeSabre or Olds 88, Alero, Topaz, the K Car that somehow saved Chrysler from bankruptcy in the 80s and every car of this same ilk (I know I'm forgetting some huge ones) ever had to exist. It's embarrasing. The Cobalt, there's another one. These piece of crap basically throw-away cars. (I know South Korea is in this same category but hey, okay I'll give them a pass, they're getting better) Only in MAYBE the last decade errr half decade did Ford start making some actual good quality cars to compete with our Nissan Honda Toyota Mazda monopoly from Japan. I'm really proud of Ford for the Focus, I think they did a great job there. If I were a mechanic you couldn't pay me to work on any basic domestic jalopy from 1980 on up through the 90s. I once had a 1977 Toyota Celica ST with a 20R engine and a carb. Rear wheel drive, floating axle and 4 speed. Canary yellow and I loved it, it was a great car, I wish I still had it today, I'd drive it around town for damn sure.

Sad, Stupid, crazy...and interesting...For me, and this just hit me, the front end with the IFS held together through all that abuse, and lasted longer than the rear end! Everyone always talks about how a solid front axle is ofcourse much tougher than the independent dogbones / halfshafts but man wouldn't you have expected the front to break WAY earlier and infact it never did break. All the actual problems were body, rear end related. The engine of course had started smoking, burning oil but it was all still working, well enough to pull him off the car pile and over the mud berm into the pit.

Well I think I can safely tell you the sticking in shifting action from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 2nd has nothing to do with your transfer case, more likely its just the synchronizers trying to line up. If your clutch isn't fully disengaging because the master cylinder and probably slave cylinder as well are worn / failing, that would also cause shifting problems. Start working on replacing one, then the other, I don't really see it would make a difference which one first.

The three most important things I tell my son about wheeling offroad ( and for those learning) I'm not ranking these in any particular order, if you make a mistake on any one you probably get stuck: 1. Pick your line carefully; 2 Don't go in the same deep ruts made by vehicles bigger than yours, you'll just get high centered, instead straddle and try to drive between the ruts; 3 Once you're in the muck and you feel your about to get stuck, don't stop! Just keep going and start working the front wheel back and forth to find some traction, keep those tires spinning with occasional blips of the throttle to clear the tires. These are my personal guidelines cause I'm always alone wheen wheeling so I have to be careful and don't have a winch..or a Wench too... Most issues you'll deal with while wheelin are in my estimation much more about traction than power / low end torque, you probably won't encounter any situations where you'd acutally need to shift into 4 Low.

To go into Neutral and then into 4 Low, the transmission must also be in Neutral, be it manual or auto.

well atleast with having 4 wheel drive capable on the Pathy, good tires up front, can shift into 4 hi in low traction / wet slippery condition and have good traction tires pulling up front. Like being in a front wheel driven car in the rain, there really low threat of spinning out.

why not just go find another used set of tires for the rear? Used tires are usually pretty inexpensive. Crap you can get 235/75 R15 Goodyear Radials from walmart for like $80 a tire brand new, not that you'd actually (*ahem/cough*) want a set..but as basic tires go...ehh, if I weren't trying to offroad and just wanted a decent tire I'd probably lean toward the Cooper Cobra Radial GT. Those look pretty cool in the 255 / 75 / 15" size and they're not that much..maybe $105 a tire.

Front

Here ya go! This looks pretty handy Unlimited locate requests and only $99. I likey! http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=13089009&locale=en_US Although I *DID* just find the $20 monthly subscribe section, I guess that's the "unlimited location requests" part of the deal huh...

I'm not sure, it could be just that the little catch tab that presses up and down to latch, un-latch might be sticking, or it may be the way the glove box went back together, something may be binding somewhere as your closing it. I seem to remember there is kind of a weak little frame that the glove box kinda rests in and the two come apart when you take all the screws out...dunno.

Man that's just awesome...if I were able to rebuild my auto it would just go to my head. My family would never hear the end of it: " *! I know how to rebuild a transMISSION! Yes! My kung-fu is STRONG!!!" I'd quit my day job and open my own tranny shop and rake in the dough. Hell I know how to build computers but no one gives a crap about that now. Hey Flyformoney you fly outta Ellington? I live near there, few miles away in Webster. See you guys go over all the time in the little trainer jets. Used to be in the Gaurd unit over there.