gv280z

I just realized I was thinking R50 the whole time instead of R51, I don't know if that came with 3rd row seating or not (if it does, then yeah..I can see that as an upgrade without having to go BIG) but you'd have to go later in the generation span to avoid the transmission recall.

BOO! Hah! Scared ya didn't I? Yes I'm still haunting these halls, I like to occasionally log in and see what's going on, this is the first time I've felt like posting in like, forever. Nice to see you trying to get back in Jason but I don't think an R51 is really where you want to be. Size wize there is no difference from a WD21 where the troops are concerned, nor is an Xterra (btw 04 model tops on these, other wise you gotta skip up to the next gen after 2005 to I don't know, 2008, 10 maybe) I think you'd do much better with either the Armada with the Titan V8 and drivetrain or Seqouia. I love the look of the 1st gen Tundra and I think they are great but remember that Slartibarfasts Dad's truck once had a rear diff gear disintegrate on him, no idea if that was just a "One Off" or part of a manufacturer wide defect. We bought a 2 wheel drive 2002 4Runner SR5 back in 2016 with the 3.4L and we absolutely LOVE that truck, that is my Wife's baby, she just adores it and we got it for a song at $4400 with brand new tires and around 145,000 miles, but here again we are only 3 in my family, can have 4 comfortably, 5 is do-able but a stretch and not on a regular basis. Taco's of the same gen cost twice as much, and progressively gets worse from there. I think you should look at if you want an offroad Toy beater just for you, you can do that for thousands less than if you want a bigger family vehicle that has *Emergency* curb jumping ditch plowing Holy @!*% I've got my whole family in the vehicle and we need to haul ass from danger because there is a maniac threatening us type of capability. Me for one, I think I'm pretty much done with the "offroading / Family vehicle" thing....It'd be fun if I had a dedicated vehicle and we (you and I Jason, in Houston) had more friendly and accessible offroad areas for us here. The mud clean up and the repairs and getting stuck and breaking your daily / family vehicle for me got old I guess.

Yes, those are the factory steel rims and they are either 6" or 6.5" wide, I think a 31" x 10.50 tire is probably the widest that can or should be mounted on those and I don't know about their backspacing (I never really understood about offset and backspacing, don't get me to lying.....) The Lego rims are 7" wide.

with a 2" lift you should be able to get by with 32" x 11.50 /R15 on Legos. Thats as big as I'd recommend going regardless just because of the weight of the tire and the multiplied force and leverage placed on the suspension, hub bearings and drive shafts. A 32" tire with 2" of lift will give you a lot of ground clearance, just as long as you don't try to play in a full size trucks 38" ruts. New South Wales, is that New Zealand? Whats the jacked up Ford / Chevy / Dodge redneck lifted truck scene like over there? Oh sorry, i just saw your question to RIP B88 on the Legos: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29976-93-95-nissan-se-alloy-lego-wheels/

I'm sure some of you remember my ranting hatred for the previous Falken "All Terrain Tire" the Rocky Mountain and the design flaw within those tires, but this new one, looks ok to me, I would definitely give this tire a chance. Looks pretty good.

I'm sorry but this is a fantasy here, there is no place you can do this, except maybe Montana or Wyoming where it is only the cows, wolves or bears that will assault you.

you won't be able to watch any football in June, it doesn't start until late August. I don't mean to be a downer but you named some pretty rough places on your list, security and awareness of your surroundings should be paramount in Chicago, DC, New York and New Orleans. The French Quarter in New Orleans is interesting from an architectural and historical point of view but it's filthy and it stinks. And is one of the highest murder rates in the US along with Chicago. DC is actually located in a pretty rough area as well. I live in Houston and I don't even want to go to see those places. If you're interested in the Colonial period, the birth of our nation, Boston would be a nice place to go, I don't hear too much bad stuff about that city. The really beautiful places are in Utah, Oregon, Washington, Arizona. It just depends what you're into. If it's the broad sweeping, breathtaking vistas, then the northwest is the place to be, and Seattle is nice too, actually (good social scene here too, underground tour is very interesting also. Thomas P Crapper). For social or historical commentary, that's going to be more in the east coast, which for me is sketchy all the way up and down the eastern seaboard. My brother in law just immigrated from the Philippines to Salisbury, Maryland and that seems to be a nice place so far so he got lucky. If you're going to California, I would avoid Los Angeles all together, and stick to San Diego, drive highway 1 through San Jose, Cambria, Carmel, you can tour the Hurst castle. Hwy 1 is insane, curvy rd with sheer cliff drop offs on one side and steep rising cliff above you on the other. San Fransisco isn't so bad either. You can drive down Lombard st and see Alcatraz from the Golden Gate Bridge. If you ever saw the movie Close Encounters of the Third kind, you know that Devil's Tower that Richard Dryfuss builds in his living room? Well, it's real and you can go see it, it's in Rapid City Wyoming. Go to Sedona Arizona and hike to one of the multiple mystical energy vortex that some claim are the earth's magnetic ley lines and native american indians use to hold rituals with in them. Sedona is flat out gorgeous. Good luck and be careful PLEASE!

Sounds to me like a perfect opportunity to have it shipped straight to a shop, drop it off the rollback and order in a jdm vg33 and Mr 510 crank adapter, and have them do the engine swap. Fix all the issues and you get an upgrade on your engine. What ever you spend in cash would easily be offset by the savings in time, headache and general diagnose / repair bs spent other wise.

I have always liked the look of the General AT2 and always viewed that as a potential buy, it was 2nd runner up on my short list way back when I bought my Cooper AT3s (awesome tire). I know you didn't ask about the Cooper but it was fantastic, I mudded it, sand, beach, rain, never got stuck with it, but I also never buried my truck to the axles in mud or sand either.

When I was selling my pathfinder I took a long hard look at the X myself, and yes, I did start to come really close to trying to grab up a supercharged version. Those also come with the upgrade 300 watt sound system with the subwoofer. I liked how the trim and wheels looked on the SC versions, but I was concerned about buying a high mileage super charged vehicle and reliability. The other thing that I thought would probably drive me (or my wife, it really was supposed to be her daily driver) is the constant "whine" from the compressor. In the end I went a different direction entirely. I do think those X's (2000-2004) are really solid, dependable little tanks and I could still see a future where I might have one to myself, it's possible. Hell, it's a WD22, I mean..come on..right?

You can check easily to determine if it's the rear pump motor or the nozzle (if the front windshield washer/pump combo is in good known working condition), remove the tubing from the rear pump and reattach to the front pump motor, if it still doesn't spray, then you know it's the nozzle that's clogged. If it does work then you know its the pump motor that's bad, in which case you can just get a small plastic T of the right size from a hardware store and just split off the front pump motor in two directions, so that when you hit the front sprayers, the rear window will get it also at the same time. I've recently discovered the if you strip the plastic off a tie wrap, the thin piece of metal left behind is a great tool for clearing clogged jets on small engine carburetors, I bet it would also work on the sprayer nozzles as well.

Sorry to hear about that Flanker7. I myself just recently replaced two of my daily drivers with a slightly newer 4Runner, but the leadup search that finally brought me to that one consisted heavily of Xterras, Pathfinders and ofcourse the Toys, there just across the aisle. Luckily I had stumbled across this website: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Pathfinder/ and saw that problem with all the 2005 and up Nissans, so after that, I told everyone that would listen to me, mainly other car sales people that were trying to sell us a newer car than 2004 - 2001, the newer the better, right? I had to tell all of them 'Nuh Uh man...you're not getting ME into that lease or the really pretty 2007 Xterra over there...nope, nooo way. They gremlins in the transmission' I wish I could have been there for you man. We got a 02 4Runner SR5 now, 2 wheel drive only, it's my wife's daily driver and we're both head over heals completely inlove with that truck. I think I agree with Adamzan there above, probably the most direct route, and your vehicle is still plenty young enough to validate the repair. Good luck.

Yep..I always wanted those, always thought they were the coolest...those are hard to find now. The American Racing Outlaws atleast are still being made but all those old school directional saw blade types are gone, this what you have is one type, there is a cheaper knockoff similar to these but obviously not as cool and I think the rim might even be steel. On those cheaper knockoffs, it seems like the "blades" are sorta rounded off, where as yours are very pointed. Those ones with the rounded off blades I always thought looked like crap. There's another type that looks kinda like a feathered / flame type directional saw blade aluminum rim and those look good too....I think there's two or three different types of those. Your truck looks good, that would be a fun little runabout. It'd be fun out in the desert.

Those AR outlaw rims are worth atleast $250 - $300 just by themselves. When I had my Pathy, I tried and tried to find those classic old school rims and never could, like the directional saw blade type and those Outlaw were always too expensive. You've got $500 in just the rims, tires, CAI and rear bagged suspension, the truck itself was basically free plus taxes and transfer fees.

You need to go south, where there is no snow, not north. Good 4x4s are hard to sell down here because nobody wants to pay what they are worth so you end up with little or no rust vehicles with straight body and clean interior for about half the asking price of a snow belt 4x4. My 94 SE with low mileage 31" Cooper A/Ts auto 4x4, nice sound, straight, no issues, clean interior, for sale on CL for 5 or 6 months at 2800, 2500, 2300, 2000...and then finally I just had to let her go at 1850, course my truck did have 217,000 miles on it but the timing belt had already been done at 200,000 before that. So, you might wanna think about getting a trailer and finding a deal in Texas or Louisiana....check northeast Texas CL, I saw they had some stuff there...Yes, $3500 too high, that should be perfect condition for a wd21, you can get some really clean and straight R50s for that down here.

I had mine for sale for like 6 months, finally had to give in at $1850, which sucked hard because my truck was really clean, inside and out, with really nice tires...but no one would give it what it deserved, I finally had to just let her go. It's hard to sell old 4x4s for any real cash in Houston though, cuz we don't get snow and it's next to impossible to find places to go offroading legally, so no one really cares that it's a good condition WD21, they just see an old car, nothing special.

I'm not sure which truck Byob is referring to, but, I do find it odd that the pics of the red two door look a little grainy, as if they've been resized, that to me is usually a sign of a scam and they've stolen someone elses pics and reposted, and I don't like the fact that everything looks really new, like the BFG spare tire and a full new set of Hankooks, and there are no right side exterior pics, I've fallen victim before to some clever "exclusive" photography where the vehicle looks awesome but you go to look at it and find it's got some issues that you couldn't see in the photos. The 92 looks good to me for that low amount of money, for less than $1,500 I'd say that's right on. But I'm in Texas, and I guess we charge a lot more for our vehicles here. $1,500 is what you spend on a basic piece of crap and don't expect much from in my area. If you're a first time CL buyer, don't be surprised if you look at atleast 10 - 15 different trucks before you finally find the right one, cuz probably 90 % or so of the ones you actually go and look at will turn out to be dogs.

how much did it take between stopping and then over flowing? Like, 1 gallon, half a gallon or 3 or 4 gallons? There is a normal stopping point where it will trigger the pump to shut but on an empty fill up that should be around 17.5 - 18 gallons.

Well that aint right, when that happens, do you then still try to push through it and see if it'll take more? You know you can hear it fill up when it's getting full, do you ever get the sense that the tank is full? The low reading might be off about 7 or 8 gallons because even when it's showing empty you should still have atleast 3-5 gallon reserve. You should try running it out of gas, take a 2 gallon can of gas with you of course, run it out of gas and note 1. how long it sits on E before it actually runs out, and 2. you should know how many miles you can literally squeeze out of a tank, to the last drop, so reset your trip meter the next time you fill up. This way, in the future, if you reset your trip meter every fill up, you'll know when you're running on fumes because you've got a mileage baseline on your tank. Those things will essentially paint the picture for you of where your fuel tank and reading really stands. I think for my 94 auto 4x4 with 31" tires (when I still owned the truck, that is) I would get around 280 miles to a tank with mixed driving. 300 miles on a tank was doing pretty good and all highway miles. And that's using big fat spark NGK V-power plugs, properly inflated tires, Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic oil, high grade filter, K&N air filter, so I was really pushing to make my truck as fuel efficient as possible.

For the really steep grades you might want to drop into 2nd gear if in an automatic and just make a slow steady climb around 3000 rpm.

This is crazy! I just found this exact same ad and was coming here to post, but thought I'd look around a little bit before I did. I guess it was just reposted again on the 21st. Dan and Greenda3 I'm in Houston and currently trying to sell my 94 'Finder, now down to roughly $2200. I'm Greg, btw and haven't been very active here lately.

I guess this is the thread I need to be in then for my issue. I haven't been on in a while because I haven't hardly been driving my truck or really doing anything with it except an occasional grocery run. I'm right in the middle of trying to sell my two nissan vehicles and consolidate into one nicer, newer more comfortable family vehicle / wife's daily driver. So I've been trying to sell my truck first over the past couple of months and having no success. Also been searching, looking really hard at 1st gen pre / aft facelift Xterra's, ofcourse I feel good about the vg33 and I really love the rims and overall look of the supercharged models. Although, I'm not sure about how I feel on buying a high mileage vehicle with a supercharger and not to mention the whine they make. But man they look good, (somehow even the paint looks awesome, deeper or richer..i dunno..) and that 210 HP would be nice. Another concern I have is I've pretty much locked out any nissan vehicles period 2005 and up because of what I stumbled across one day, hope I can find it again: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Xterra/okay there we go, according to this website, the 2005 gen Xterra's and I'm guessing Frontiers and Pathfinders are probably all sharing this transmission issue where the coolant bleeds into the tranny? Is that correct and has anyone here noticed it as the issue that seems to be stated. Pretty much because of this, and price point as well, I'm closing the door on 2nd gen Xterras. I am also looking really REALLY heavy into late model 2nd gen and early model 3rd gen (2001 - 2005) 4Runners as well but that's not really my issue here. I'm not liking the sound of those other issues of the VQ engine Pathfinders (again, I know I'm looking high mileage vehicle here 150-165,000) so I'm not really thinking about those right now, pretty much just the vg33 which I know is a solid, bulletproof engine. This is going to be my wifes daily driver. She's an immigrant that just learned to drive about 5 years ago and has been pampered in a perfect sweet little 01 Altima with front wheel drive. Did any 1st gen Xterras ever come with any TC at all? do rear wheel drive only models break loose in the rain easily? I don't think I'll ever be able to teach counter steer and wheel spin control to my wife....for us guys, you know, it's fun to get a little sideways unexpectedly, kinda milk it out for all it's worth...but for her, it's a matter of life and death and we almost flipped the truck.......she says.....really bad fight we had one day. Greg

You should probably hold on to that replacement because what's happening is the bearing the gear rides on is failing. Bearings don't go out all at once, they sorta degrade over time as they wear, currently it just happens to be 'cockeyed' in the good position, but it will continue to get worse and eventually you'll be stuck (if you have an automatic) in first gear like what happened to me. When you do take it out, have a drip pan there with you because you're going to have some gear oil / transmission fluid come out, probably about 8 ounces. Anyway, once you get the old speed sensor out, and you spin the gear with your fingers, you will easily be able to feel the rough spots in the bearing where it hitches as it rotates. The one I replaced would spin like half a turn and then stop and catch really firmly where I had to apply a few pounds of torque to get it to spin again. Did your replacement come with a gear on it or did you get just the shaft only? I had to reuse the gear that mine had but when I started trying to remove the little keeper spring that goes on top I bent it up so badly that it wasn't reusable but it turns out it's not even necessary because once you bolt it back in, that pinion gear doesn't have any room to advance forward and slip off inside the transfer case as it's spinning, engaged in the gear.

its got a little rubber O ring on it that kinda helps it "seat" inside the transfer case, just tap against it to rotate it up in a counter clockwise fashion, then you should be able to pry it out. When I did mine, I had a way harder time just getting that stupid harness clip to dis-engage to un plug it!

This is what I did for my intake, I don't think I'd call it a "Cold Air intake" but it was cheap and seemed to do ok. Problem was it was really loud and annoying while out driving around, it was kinda distracting and my foot always seemed to be in the gas (even though annoying, still fun to drive and feel the punch) which caused my mileage to be even worse...so I removed it and went back to the OEM style K&N drop in. You might want to try this before going with the whole setup, you might find you don't like the noise after a while. I liked it at first but it just got kinda old. Also, I second the snorkel route too...that actually is a true cold air intake where as all these "Filter under the hood" style are just sucking hot engine compartment air. Atleast you would get bonus function from the snorkel.