gv280z

I just remembered, my friends and I did the tandem sky diving thing down there south of Olympia and while we were in the plane, before the jump I could see all 5 of the big volcanos up there all lined up, Rainier, I guess Shasta was one, Baker, St. Helens and there was one other..pretty awesome.

I would absolutely rock a Subaru in a heartbeat!

You know it's eff'd up that it came to this man, to quote Rick from Walking Dead, I'm sorry this happened to you Hardbody. I love my two Nissan's I own now and I've loved every one of my previous Nissans I owned an eon ago, my 91 pickup, my 85 Maxima, a 80 280zx, an 81 diesel 810/b Maxima, and I have to give a brief nod to my 1st car at 16 years old which was an 83 Pulsar NX. As Nissan owners we profess our love to all who will listen, our cars are indestructable, they are the best! It's a shame what happened with your Altima / Sentra? I forget which, sorry. It makes me sad that Nissan had to put so much useless over tech in that car as to completely deadline it in such a fashion and even the Nissan tech's can't figure out what's wrong with it. At this point, if I were in your shoes I'd make a direct challenge / threat to Nissan Corp to take back their lemon and diagnose it or else you're going to put the whole story, complete with supporting documentation (tow receipts, write up work order copy from the dealership, etc...) on youtube and say what a piece of crap that year model of that car was. You bought the car predicated on the heart felt belief that it's a Nissan DAMNIT! It's a good car! WTH!? I had faith in you Nissan, now back me UP!

Hey Colorado I just did a quick VS search trying to compare the ES9000 to some other shocks, and what I saw was they tend to be waay too stiff and some guys couldn't wait to get rid of them...but, it's all relative, you know? All the products we deal with really are all over the map when you're asking a large group of people. From tires A/T - M/T - Bogger / Swamper to different brands to Gas shocks and hydraulic shocks, Gabriel and Bilstein and Pro Comp, Rancho and on and on...you know what man...it's a freaking roll of the dice. All you can do is study as hard as you can and then make an informed decision based on what your gut tells you and hope for the best. Personally, my instincts say to be wary of the Pro Comps but I know dirt squat dude, all I have to go on is what I've read about them, and so I decided on a different direction and so far it looks like it's going to work out for me and my experiences within my own little situation.

You know one car that always seems to get my attention is an Acura TL-S / type S those things are friggin hot!

What you call a beater for $8000 I call a damn NICE Infinity QX4 from around 2003 - 2004 year model, last one before the R51. For that much money you should be able to find one with low miles (low meaning around 100,000) Or you could get two really nice 98's loaded and have a back up spare for your secondary vehicle! As far as I know (I've no experience with an R50, I'm a WD21 owner) Rust is always a big deal so if you can find a more southern vehicle where the snow is less, that might help. I'd poke around in here and see if you can find any patterns developing on certain issues, what are people always seeming to be dealing with?

I'll think about it..we'll see, something like this I think I might be able to do but I need to give it time to let the idea settle in. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

Stay away from the 2006 year model CTS, they were lemons, look it up, you'll see.

YIKES!! You lost me at "Lower the axle and let it hang loose" huh and what?? I'd rather use a spring compressor and that's if I even cared about using those stupid booster things. Maybe one day I will. Thank you for the advice, I know it was stupid..I paid half a mind to what was going on.. I have a deadly job too, I deal with big rubber balloons that when they explode and your standing next to it, you're either dead or bleeding from the ears, there was one that knocked over a track hoe, like a 345c or something.

I put the coil boosters inside the coils between the bottom and 2nd two coils on both sides. I would have to use a spring compressor and completely remove the spring to put underneath or on top. And no, I didn't have any other safety brace to hold the truck while I was underneath it, before going under I gave the whole thing a good shake to make sure it wasn't about to fall off the forks or roll forward, which was my concern. I considered putting into 4 Lo but didn't...I guess I didn't think it would engage to keep the front wheels planted so I didn't mess with it. But, the entire time I was paying close attention and did imagine the whole thing coming down on me. But if I did die that way my wife and kid would be wealthy and I would be the new Darwin awards winner!

Hey Verge! A little elaboration would really help here but I think I'm able to make a little sense of what you're saying. So, when you turn off your ignition, your saying the engine continues to run, like sort of stuttering / coughing acting like it's about to die but runs for a few seconds anyway? Or are you saying it just keeps on running like normal, as if you never turned off the ignition...? Some cars (I haven't seen this in years, I'd forgotten about it) due to bad gas and or water / moisture in the gas will 'diesel' after the ignition is cut, and then they eventually take their last coughing sputtering breath and stop running. I'm going to assume your engine is a diesel, given your geographic location and yours is a Terrano. If your diesel is ummm..dieseling, you may want to try draining the water out of the fuel filter or just changing it altogether. However, if you turn the key off and the engine just keeps going, then it's something in your ignition circuit, like the mechanism isn't breaking the circuit to kill the ignition...and also, there's this...a diesel will run as long as it's getting fuel, obviously it's getting air, there's no way to stop the air flow and there is no spark ignition going to the cylinder to continue igniting the fuel air mixture, a DIESEL has to cut power to the fuel pump to quit running. Now you also said it's over revving when going up hill? Hmmm....it sounds like it's downshifting when you ask it for power to go up the hill, the kickdown is normal but there should be a bit of a grace period, it shouldn't do it immediately unless it really needs the gear change. I think that is probably just your throttle position sensor. That's located on the left side of the throttle body, has a connector and a little screw that you loosen for adjustment...your going to have to experiment with that one, no one can tell you where it needs to be, it's really up to you; but it directly affects how the transmission operates and in which gear. Just loosen it very slightly, leaving tension on the screw and start making little hairline adjustment until it drives correctly. I'm sure there are some other members on here that probably speak Kiwi or somehow can communicate with your natural mode of speach, someone is bound to come out to talk to you better than I can. Good luck.

Let me start by saying how undeserving-ly stupid lucky and humbled I am because I just happen to have a shop at my disposal with forklift and air tools. That would be the shop I work at but we are not a mechanic shop. So today I did use my forklift and airtools to do the easiest possible thing it seems on our vehicles to do and that's the rear shocks. I say easy, I don't know, it did seem pretty straight forward (yea right with my truck ass end 4 feet off the ground) But I just wanted to give a big nod to you guys who figure out how to do waay more intense stuff than replacing shocks without the aid of mechanical lifting and air tools. My job today did take me right at 2 hours even with that stuff, 2 hours. So after a lot of searching and wondering and reading I settle on the KYB Excel G shocks. I had been going back and forth with these and the DT3000 shocks which look pretty tough. I'd read / heard something strange about Rancho 5000s and saw many conflicting reports, people hate them, they're terrible / people swear by them, love them won't have any other shock and the fact that they don't rebound because they're oil filled instead of gas charged? Oh and the fact that I found the KYB's on killer sale for dirt cheap, that helped a lot too. Also for a very long time I've been wanting to try the coil insert boosters, round strips of rubber you stuff inside the coil springs...I thought that would be a cheap easy way to get some lift, so I did that today too. So I got up under my truck and this is what I found: couple of old shocks and rear axle, obviously. I was able to use my air ratchet to remove the nuts on the lower mounts but had to use a hand ratchet on top, first one side, then the other and also stuffed both coil inserts in the coils, bolted in my new shocks easy peasy. and done. Not quite. So I drive home after running some errands and trying to get a feel for the new ride...it's really bouncy and kinda nervous...well, maybe the shocks and coil boosters will break in over time...Oh almost forgot!: Coil booster for lift is absolutely worthless, it didn't do anything, I took before and after shots, no difference...and then it started bugging me that I was getting false readings from my new shocks because of the coil boosters, so I did run back to my shop, drug the forklift back out again and crawled back under to rip those things out! Now I know 100% the feedback I'm getting is from my shocks and it's says they are pretty firm but I expect they'll break in nicely and settle down, I'm happy at this point, now I just need to get the fronts done. I think for the mild offroading that I haven't done in a long time now, these shocks are perfect and were dirt cheap, and I'll never have to pay for another set off shocks again RE: the limited lifetime warranty. Before the coil boosters After coil boosters duhhh.....crap.

Well I installed my rear KYB Excel G Black shocks today and so far so good, I like them at this point. They do have a firm ride but so far it's okay. I've got quite a few pics but in this post I'm only using two, as I'm going to have my own write up in separate post. you can see in the pic above the coil spacers behind the shocks, I've already ripped those out, I didn't like them.

These were taken around 1998 - 1999

I started going through my old photo album and picked out a few pics to scan and put up. These first ones are of MT. Rainier that I took with a little Kodak camera out the window of a plane This next set is also of MT. Rainier while I was out hiking one day in the foot hills around the big mountain, this particular location was at the top of the logging road rt 5 or something that shoots off to the left while on the way to Paradise Lodge.

Wow MattV, love that old Hardbody, I had a 91 when I was 18...great little truck. That one that you had I think is probably one of the most perfect vehicles I think ever made...it's classic. Now for my lost love, the one I let get away, is my old 1980 Datsun 280zx 5spd n/a I bought for $1200 while in the Army at Ft. Lewis, WA What a great car this was and really fun to drive! I actually traded it (only God know why) for an 85 Nissan Maxima. Before that Z car died on me for over a year (I did get it running again, just before the trade) I did have the pleasure of driving it through the foothills of Mt. Rainier through Elbe, Ashby and up the old logging road just passed the little cafe on 7 leading up to Paradise Lodge. That was awesome. So the Maxima that I got in trade got totalled one morning and that was sad because I did like it, and that lead up to me buying my Honda Prelude Si 2.0 I had this car for about 8 years or so and in the end it finished with a jdm engine and head work by Honda (that I asked for and paid extra bucks) that involved a 3 angle valve job and port and polish on the head, high flow cat, 2.25" exhaust with an Imco Turbo muffler, MSD wires and cone filter and intake. Sold it to a friend for 500 bucks, and then unknown to me, that friend sold it to a complete stranger that knew nothing about the car! I also drove this car up through the earlier mentioned foothills and logging roads. I drove this car home across the US from Washington to Houston Texas zigziagged across the states through Wyoming and down through Colorado in 5 days while pulling a trailer with my bike (pictured below) and all my crapped packed into my car and it was freaking awesome! What a road trip! Everyone should do this at some point in their life. And boy did my little Honda perform! I have an especially fond memory of climbing a mountain pass charging up the elevation blasting past everyone while in 3rd gear pulling 5gs on the tach and it loved it, ate it up and never missed a beat So there ya go, that's my story. Here's my bike, which I also don't have anymore because the bank thought it still belonged to them for some reason!

Man...so that means I've a chance of the same thing happening to me, unless you just somehow got a bad set. Now I'm thinking maybe I should just go straight to the DT3000s. Every review I read about these said they were firmer than the original but not unpleasantly so, they were the Goldilocks shock..apparently. I guess I'm going to go ahead and install my rear shocks today and wait until I can buy the front ones, I'll let you know how the rears perform. #344045

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=KYB+GR-2&submit= That page above has the KYB Excel G / GR2 front and rear shocks for our vehicle and is what I'm currently in the middle of setting up now. I've just received my rear shocks that I bought from Auto Warehouse for 26 bucks a piece, normally they're around 40 or 50. The fronts are 30 each. Every review I've read for these is positive so I'm pretty excited about them. And yes, I'm going to use them offroad too, just like you. They'll meet or exceed OEM, well our vehicle left the factory as an offroad capable truck, so these will be as good if not better than the original. If it weren't these, I'm pretty sure I was going to get the Doetsch Tech 3000 for around $38 each, which I still may eventually if I don't like these KYB's...but I've got a good feeling about them.

Voted

Hey Superpollo I'm in Houston, hit me up when you get here, i'd like to meet you. Send me a pm

I've got the same thing too, same deal Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

I wonder if this is something for venting pressure out of the transmission and the whole point to the length of it is just so the tranny wouldn't be taking in water because of the pipe, so they raised it waaay up and then pointed it down. It's a blow-off riser that won't take on water. I dunno.

Okay, this IS embarrasing, in my post above I realize now it wasn't a new 2013 'Bed-Wetting Finder' that I noticed as I was passing by, no...instead it was I think a 2011 / 2012 R51 that I was admiring...these actually don't look that bad to me now and this newest Crapfinder that Nissan has developed makes the previous generation R51 look like a man's SUV. http://gomotors.net/Nissan/Nissan-Pathfinder-V8/photos.html?pic=9 Would I drive this? Absolutely without a doubt. The new one? NEVER! I never thought I'd hear myself say it but the R51 now, for me...not that bad. You have to give a nod to the V8 and presence of a real chassis / body on frame.

you should wear goggles / eye protection, you're gonna have all kinds of crud falling in your hair, face, and eyes.

It sounds like that extra clearance between the piston and the valves sacrificed on compression ratio, however that engine will never die, and being a lower compression engine, you could add on a turbo / rotax turbo / belt driven charger without having to change out the pistons. Pistons used in a forced induction engine are dished to keep the compression ratio low to allow for the extra force coming into the combustion chamber, or else the engine would tear itself apart. I'd look and see what kind of luck people have had adding an exhaust or belt driven turbo to the Villager engine..