gv280z

Haha! I guess they wanted to show what the trucks would look like if it were to ever encounter a dirt hill or a pool of muddy water for real...yeah, it's pretty embarrasing, I can't even figure out what kind of A/T tires those are, I automatically thought they would be BFG A/T KOs but they weren't. What did Toyota spend $5000 on here? The rims and tires are around $1000, bilstein shocks with resevoir and lift is another $1000...that just leaves armor....right? I guess it's possible to spend another grand on armor, but i'm really thinking like $6 - $800...so we're knocking on $2800 roughly, what would cost another $2,200 ? They didn't include a winch! WTH? Oh, I see...I forgot about the opened up exhaust and aggressive body kits. No winch, no bumper, no roll over protection.

yes they are gas charged and I was able to get the bottom eyelet out of the mounting tabs but it was still stuck in the lower suspension arm with the shock fully extended against the top mount and I couldn't compress it by hand at all. The shock was loose and I could jostle it back and forth but it wouldn't come out. I tried prying it, hammering on it, it was just so damned stiff the only way I could compress it was by very gently lowering the forklift and letting the bottom of the suspension arm and brake rotor lay on the ground and the shock would compress, I had to do it like 3 times and it finally worked, right when I was really starting to panic. I understand now regarding the bolt, I'll go to the hardware store and find a nut and lock washer I can get on the end of that long bolt i'm using now and just tighten it up good and snug that way. The thread on that bolt is coarse so I'm afraid I can't go back with the standard size and type of bolt. Yes, Precise that's exactly what I did, large pipe wrench, adjustable wrench didn't work, then I tried another pipe wrench when the nut started rounding off and it still wouldn't break..so then I got out the saw...while in full on panic mode.

I assure you, that bolt is tight, I know it doesn't look it but it's not budging, and I couldn't take it all the way in because threads would have run out, all I can do is go back with some washers to shim it up but, I don't really understand you, the bushing is tight inside the bracket, the bolt was the exact same diameter, it's not like it's too small and allowing play inside the eyelet of the shock, it's the two bolts were identical in diameter if that's what you mean. The length of the bolt ofcourse I know it doesn't look right but it's okay, really. You're not suggesting that I could somehow tighten up the metal tabs that the eyelet sits in, are you? I mean that mounting bracket is like forged / cast iron, I don't think those metal tabs have any give in them to be able to clamp down and sandwich the eyelet. I definitely see how the diameter of the bolt could be a problem if it were too small, it would allow slack and all kinds of movement inside the eyelet.

I got my front shocks installed yesterday and the first one I changed nearly kicked my butt. It was the passenger side shock and when I got in there and looked at it, I was very surprised to see that it was the original shock! I knew this because of the presence of the wiring harness plugging into the top of the shock body. Wow. So, needless to say the top nut was positively welded on, I did try and use some PB blaster on it..and a couple of big wrenches, one large pipe wrench and an adjustable wrench....and then another smaller 10" pipe wrench on the nut to no avail...then it was time for extreme measures. that is not coming off. I would have been screwed, without my trusty saw CUT IT OFF!!!! then it just needed a tap or two and voila! Well, not really..I was able to remove the bottom mounting bolt easily...but... I could not compress this shock! So I worked for like atleast an hour trying to jostle and unwedge that freaking shock from between the top bolt caught in the upper mount and the lower eyebolt caught in the frame, I started having to gently lower the entire vehicle to the ground to get the shock to compress and then quickly raise it back up again and roughly in this manner I was finally able to get that damn shock out and then get the new one installed. Again, disaster strikes, the bottom mounting bolt would not thread, I guess the threads were screwed up and wouldn't take...but I was lucky, I remembered I'd removed a similar size bolt from the pump of a pressure washer about 2 weeks before and thought it might fit...and it worked! So I was able to securely mount in my new shock. This morning while looking at my pictures...I was trying to think of a way to bolt in a bracket of some type on the lower shock mount to effectively raise the mounting bolt position about an inch or so, there by lifting the suspension...and then I saw I think there is some room at the top mount to drill a couple of holes, put a long enough bolt through, use a few shims and be able to mount rear shocks with eyelets at top and bottom on the front! I made a quick little sketch here. I don't have to energy to try this now but I welcome any of you to it if it's never been done before and you think it will work. I may try this sometime in the future. The yellow is the drilled holes and the top eyelet, the red is the bolt. The other side took me about half an hour, very easy, that shock was bad and it compressed very easily. Bing bang boom and done. So I guess this whole time one of my front shocks was bad, the other still good..somehow..it was stiffer than the new rear KYB shocks. So now I'm just trying to figure out how I like them...they seem okay so far, handle fine and truck is controllable. It can only be better than it was before.

My main point in this post was I wanted to show you the cute little "Offroad" course the Toyota execs had setup at the auto show to highlight the new TRD package 4Runner and Taco trucks. This little track that they built, it's pretty funny, they say in the article that the trucks suspensions have been raised "as much as 2 inches"! the trucks have armor, A/T tires and some opened up exhaust. The track they built, the least of our trucks could go around, easily. I myself took my truck through more than this while it still had 235/75/15 highway tread tires, in 4wd through real mud!! Any one of our stock trucks, from the factory could get round it, and except for the log portion, I'm pretty sure my Nissan Altima could get round it too! The funniest thing is the little pools of 1 1/2 foot deep of muddy water they drive through, that's so cute! Some corporate types just don't get the real world, the true reality of things out here in the field with the end user, they build this weak sauce little track to show off their trucks...pretty funny. http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2014/02/06/toyota-getting-down-and-dirty-with-new-trd-pro-series-trucks/?intcmp=features I just watched it again and heard $5000 ! That's what they're charging for the offroad package!

Wow man, this tears to my eyes. I'm very sorry for your loss in this violent manner. I applaud your restraint and I thank you for being the bigger man in this situation and not resorting to violence against his dogs or himself, the owner. I'm glad you were able to turn this into a positive. Now when that guy lays awake in bed at night, knowing that his dogs are murderers, he might decide to do something about them or their outdoor living situation, or the fence itself.

Sweet mine is an offroad package I wasn't sure..I've also got the map lamps too... Wow, the XE came really well appointed...these things must have started around the mid $20 thousands...

Nissanland you just described my truck with three exceptions: Power adjust mirrors, Sunroof (which is completely useless) and the Economy / Power option...and maybe the front rear speaker / tweeter combo which I don't know if that was an SE option or not. How about the tachometer? Did all XE have a tach? Mine also had the electronic suspension and fog lights...so the main SE options it seems were the Power shifting array, power mirrors, LSD, Sunroof, surround sound with tweeters, fog lights, electronic suspension, and I guess nerf bars? Mine did have the bars at one time but they were broken off and gone when I got it. I don't know if it ever had the brush gaurd.

Oh my GOD GrandpaX your rig is like..a porno movie on wheels man, that's what I call one nice piece of work man! I absolutely love that thing, it's great! I like that you didn't go so big with the tires, you kept it reasonable on the tires and rims. What are those, 32s? Nice SAS, bumper, lift..very cool. Classy.

if the release isn't working, it's because the catch in there broke. I was able to use a tiny little metal pin to push through the tab that moves up and down, all the way through the coils of the spring to where it catches and holds when you pull on it

Yea I kinda feel the same way about Monteros...I like them, like..more than I want to admit..I really like the newer model Montero Sports...but Mitsubishi scares me, I don't feel like I could ever be comfortable in relying on it. The Montero, like with the 3000GT they were incredibly innovative, (maybe a little too much?) and over complicated...the 4wd selection system in those things was crazy, almost like they were competing with one or both of the big well known British safari 4x4 vehicles. The only thing that scares me more than a Mitsubishi though, is an Isuzu...and that's also sad because I have a feeling the old school Troopers were pretty great. If you gave me an Isuzu Rodeo...hmmm...I'd treat it like a welcomed house guest: Treat it nicely with little involvement until I can get rid of it with as little investment as possible. If you were to give me an old school Trooper or Montero, I'd treat it like a semi attractive arranged marriage wife I've just met...with optimistic caution.

Uhhh..is it different on the 87 from the 94? If not, the ICM is attached directly to the right side intake, right behind the coil...if yours looks anything like this it's the light grey little trapazoidal looking box right behind the coil, attached directly to the intake plenum, in this pic you can see one of the screws attaching it.

Check this out y'all, I found this website that has a ton of clearance / lightly used items for sale under the "Yard Sale" section. This link will take you straight there: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/yard-sale/universal-parts.html?p=1 Looks like some pretty good useable items in here.

I have had this happen to me. What I did was use a flathead screwdriver to jimmy the little plastic catch tab, just tick it in there and give it a tap and it'll open up. I did have to remove mine and figure out how to fix the latch, I've already passed this course I'll let you cheat off my paper if you need help Your going to have to remove the latching mechanism completely from the glovebox, take it inside and sit down at your kitchen table to work on it. I know exactly what happened and basically how to fix it, I had to improvise as will you but it can be done.

I've just recieved my front KYB shocks and yes they are scary soft, just like you said I can compress them easily..I just don't understand that. Part of me wants to go ahead and instal them anyway and the other part of me says to send them back, get the refund and start working on a set of DT3000s..why would they make the rear shocks so much more firm than the fronts? I guess it's supposed to be for comfort, and who knows when I pull the current used shocks off the front, they may be even SOFTER and more extremely weaker than the new KYBs...sometimes I'm not even sure if I need to replace the fronts..but atleast I'll know then exactly where I stand with my shocks because the current set were on there when I bought my truck 2 1/2 years ago. Who knows, maybe they'll ride just fine. Probably going to do the install this weekend.

I'm sorry, I cannot offer you any insight regarding the ST Maxx, OTHER than to say that I can't remember having seen them on any trucks around and I do pay attention to other truckers tires. Mainly I see a lot of BFG a/t ko, mud terrain (both types) Falken Rocky mountains, and Cooper ATP. I haven't seen too much of my own AT3 out there on the job sites though..oh and a lot of Michellin A/T As long as you're staying in the all terrain tire genre, I second the Cooper Disco AT3, I've taken my set through everything from 6 hour highway road trip to fairly deep sand to hard packed dirt and loose watery mud, I've had pretty successful mudding session with them up to this point, also very good in the wet too. These I think have one point on the ST Maxx and it's that the outside lugs are staggered a bit, where as the big outside lugs on the Maxx follow one behind the other. I would put my AT3's up against the Maxx under any conditions. When I finally decided on the Cooper Disco's, the only other tire I was really looking at was the General Grabber AT/2 (I still really like the look of these, and if you go to youtube you can see a jeep cherokee that runs them, playing with a Mitsu Delica in really thick, deep mud.) The only reason I opted out of the AT/2 at the last minute was the tire sales man kinda highlighted for me the rubber composition on the Cooper, and the fact that the General was based on old tech, old design, where the AT3 was new. Almost forgot, the new Toyo Open Country AT2 looked really hot as well... http://www.walmart.com/ip/General-Grabber-AT2-Light-Truck-and-SUV-Tire-LT235-75R15/14964143 http://www.treaddepot.com/group/opat2.html

Way to go SEAHAWKS!!!! I'm proud for you guys man, what a friggin historic game..noone down here cares though, I find it pretty irritating, and the fact that everyone is pissed that it was such a blow out, I loved it! I thought it was great but I'm probably the only one in Houston. Totally Historic game.

I'm pretty sure any shock that fits the R50 will work and I would be in a state of shock if one of the supposed offroad specific shocks DIDN'T fit a 2" lift, which is less than mild by comparison. Just go to JC Whitney or Auto parts warehouse and enter your vehicle, here I'll do it for you: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/??D=rancho+-+shock+absorber+and+strut+assembly&Dx=mode+matchallany&N=0&Nr=AND%28universal%3A0%29&Ntk=Main&Ntt=rancho+-+shock+absorber+and+strut+assembly&Ntx=mode+matchallany&Nty=1&PN=0+4294890173&VN=4294960609+4294960583+4294967166+4294964934+4294966786&domain=autopartswarehouse.com&mvtgroup=B&query_type=Product+Results&Nr=AND%28universal:0%29&refType=Series&refValue=Rancho+Rs5000 I like the Auto warehouse because they have free shipping and fair prices, and you can pay with Paypal. Apparently on the R50 there is no distinction between the rear shocks and front, like on the WD21s that have eyelets for the rear but a stem on top in the front. I can't find front and rear shocks for the R50 so they must be universal fitment. I know WD21Colorado just put these on his truck and is happy with them.

all you need (if I remember correctly) is just a flat head screw driver and just pry it out at the corners and it'll pop out. You could try to pull back the fabric a little and look to see what's holding it in there, I don't think it has any screws in it, the speaker itself does though. But no, the roof panel does not come down.

If you don't have any spark, it sounds to me like your ECU fuse got blown during all the drama, or it's a safety cut off and now the computer won't let the engine start until you get it fixed...or you've a blown head gasket and no compression, and that's why it won't start.

What is the cutoff year on this? I'm really interested in trying to get atleast up to an 03 QX4 or R50, maybe sell the Altima and get the little Missus into a luxury 4x4 suv. I'm really kinda nervous to let go of my Altima though because it's been such a great car for ever.

I'll try the same test when I get mine in. What color are your KYB's ? They sound way too soft if you can do that by hand in 2 or 3 seconds, how much force did you have to apply, like all your strength, half...the ones I installed in the rear for my truck are pretty firm, I'm just waiting for them to get broken in. Should the front's be firmer than the rear because of having the weight of the engine to support / control? If they are then my truck is going to ride like a tank once I'm done !

The day before I left Washington state was the day of the earthquake, February 28th, 2001, or there abouts, I may be a day or two off, I was on base, standing outside motor pool and started hearing a rumble and thought, that's weird, why would any M1 A1 Abrams be coming through here? It was a warehouse district...then the ground started rippling under my feet and I yelled at my buddy in total exuberance, 'Earthquake!!' and through my hands in the air in excitement...and then I looked to Mt. Rainier and felt sudden dread...aww crap...here we go. But of course nothing happened...I'll always remember my one and only earthquake though, there on Ft. Lewis.

4x6? Why you go smaller? I'm still loving my RF 5x7s, best value for dollar item I've bought for my Pathy!

I don't blame you, Puyallup is very nice town, I remember it well. I think that guy with the supercharged Ls-1 stuffed in a 240Z lives around there, I recognized that long hill in one of his videos of him racing the Yamaha R1 up that hill. if Yellowstone ever goes, we're all screwed, whole planet..done. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk