gv280z

You should never go Full Retard...Dustin Hoffman didn't even go Full Retard.

What would happen if you ran through a car wash?

Now, understand I'm not sure of the cause or how to resolve, but I sometimes experience something similar, especially when offroading: What happens is the transmission basically isn't downshifting when it should. So your driving along there in 3rd or 4th gear and come to a stop, well the tranny is still in 3rd and that's why it won't hardly move. I don't know why it does this but atleast you know what it might be.

Lol, I Don't know but it sounds awfully familiar! Touche btw..heh.

Oh man my wife and just went through this with our 2001 Altima. It's your N.A.T.S. antenna ring is no longer communicating with the vehicle immobilizer. If you can get it to a service bay where they can pull a code check on it, you're looking for codes 1610 and 1612 or something like that. We had to have our Altima towed to the dealership, after first having it towed to a neighborhood service station, they couldn't work on it. It's that damn Vehicle Immobilizer system. It will no longer recognize the magnetic transponder in your key and so it thinks your trying to steal the car and therefor cuts the ignition. That thing parts and labor, and diagnostic cost us a total of roughly $610. Good luck. If you've got full coverage ins on your vehicle, check with them, they may reimburse your towing charges. I'm with State Farm and they sent us a check for both tows.

12 junk yards on N. Shepherd? Crap man, I wanna go! Next time you need to go call me, all I can find around here they don't have any thing for our trucks, and I hate going to LKQ over there on Wallisville, its too huge for one thing and then you gotta pay to get in, then you gotta pay again if you want to go to the other side. I've tried calling a couple of the ones on mykawa and pasadena and they never have anything for our trucks, they don't even look they just say "94 Nissan path? No, don't got it."

?? Uh, what is your version of Difficult?

You did the right thing. Hope you get a good haul out of it.

I don't mean to be a negative Nancy but I hope you guys know the more negative your offset, the more stress and pressure are multiplied and applied against the hub / wheel bearing assembly. It's like a giant crowbar prying against it.

If my mechanic was correct, mine seems awfully low compared then at the 125 roughly give / take region. My truck runs great though, with 31s I can hit 60 in about 8 seconds I think and mileage is around 16 - 18, haven't had a road trip to calculate long dist. mileage with the new tires yet but I did get 19mpg before the tire swap on hwy trips. I've barely got like 202,000 on my engine and I never see it smoking. Could my mechanic have been wrong?

I put K&N in everything I got man, both my nissans and my chevy, my old honda I used to have and the Maxima I had before that. You just take it out once in a while, like every 6 - 8 months or so, knock all the loose dirt out against the sidewalk or side of your house, then spray the cleaning solution on it and let it set for a little bit, then spray it out (from inside out, push the dirt back out of the filter, not INTO it) with a garden hose. Let it dry and then spray a light coating of oil onto it, drop it back in. It beats buying a new air filter twice or three times a year and they flow a lot better. After you clean it out you can almost see through it. I always like to put it up to the sunlight and look through it to find anything I might have missed.

Yeah even though it's my argument I tend to agree with you considering the relative youth of his engine at only 156,000 miles old. It's gotta be something though...there is SOMETHING amiss, something tangible. Well, now it looks like we're down to: General drive train issues / Sensor issues or Exhaust. Oh! I just remembered something! Our trucks rear drive shaft ride on a bearing that sits right behind the transfer case, if that bearing is bad / worn, that would put extreme drag on the power transfer to the rear diff, forcing the engine to have to make more power than it normally would, hence gulping the fuel down. What about your fuel filter under the hood? That's an inexpense replacement item that never hurts to look into and pretty easy to do. If your gas is dirty that's no good.

well that helps a lot to narrow it down at least. Change your pcv valve and get a fuel system service done, spray some cleaner in the MAF, put a bottle of Gunk or something similar and run through the system, and lastly you need that compression check, or ask the tech that did your front end work if they happened to perform one when they were replacing your front seal. Beyond those things it's going to be something periferral, i.e. exhaust, trans / diff fluid / Did someone already say replace your O2 sensor? I need to do that too...what kind of oil are you using? I like Castrol Syntec and Mobile 1 10 w 30, and whatever best quality oil filter Wix or Fram extra tough guard, what ever filters to the highest efficiency percentage and micron. What about your air filter? Get a K&N drop in atleast if you're still using a paper filter, first thing I did when I got my truck.

Sorry, just saw this. What was your mileage prior to having the work done?

Enkryptd what kind of driving do you do, mixed city / hwy? 180 - 190 In my estimation would be all city driving stop and go traffic. Something is definetly wrong there. Manual or auto? Clean MAF? Over drive turned off? Check your brake pads and calipers to make sure the calipers aren't siezed up and dragging. Check ignition timing and head / cylinder compression. If you have low compression the engine is only getting a small percentage of benefit from combustion, which would waste a lot of fuel, which would probably also mean you either had antifreeze in your oil because of a head that is loosing it's seat against the block, or your engine would be using / burning oil because of bad rings and blow-by. Low compression can also result from dirty valves that don't seat properly because of carbon deposits, which amounts to the combustion chamber allowing fuel / air mixture to escape when being compressed in preparation for the power stroke when the spark plug ignites. As for your header installation, it's not mandatory that you change out everything else. The collector just has to be able to bolt up, it doesn't matter what comes after / behind the collector. The exhaust piping could remain totally stock allowing you to replace pieces of your exhaust one at a time, you don't have to do it all at once. You could have a 2 1/4" exhaust collector bolted on to a flange with a reducer on the other side to go back down to stock, and then at some point go in with a 2 1/4" pipeing and high flow cat that again reduces back down to stock on the other side and so on until finally it's 2 1/4" all the way out the back.

Wow, it's really quiet around here lately. I thought I'd share an idea I've just started kicking around a little bit. I'm on a really tight budget right now, as always but I'd like to get a little exhaust work done on my ride. Now, ideally ofcourse I'd love to have newly mandrell bent 2" pipe from a high flow cat all they out the back with a mild sound, high flow muffler. At this time however, I cannot spend the roughly $200 or so that it would cost for that, so I'm thinking of just staying in the current stock pipe diameter and cutting and splicing some new pipe in, cut out whatever that secondary exhaust chamber is (resonator?) between the cat and muffler, and throw in a cheap new muffler, maybe a Thrush turbo muffler or something. Does anyone have any experience pulling off some super cheap cut and splice with U-bolt jobs on their exhaust? Any ideas?

Thanks this helps me as well, I've crawled under there like 3 times now looking in the back of the auto trans trying to find the vss, no wonder I couldn't find it! Too bad the OEM costs like $180 for the 31" tires version.

Yes, it will fit, talk to Txpath4x4, he also has an XE that I know he just installed 31s on. He might be able to give you some information.

Yea man, who gives a crap if you've got a Pathy or not, I don't, you're waay beyond that at this point. You know it's not like your going to come wondering in here running game and talking trash like some noob who doesn't even drive yet! Hehe, jeez man. Just because you don't have your Path anymore doesn't mean you just forgot everything you learned while you had it. And besides I bet maybe a year or so from now you're gonna be hard pressed to pass up a good deal you happen to run across on some sweet little virgin 95 WD21 that some old lady is selling. You'll be back. How long do you think you can go before you start eyeing some new trail you've never seen before..hmm? Uh huh..

Oh please God don't let my madness infect you too! Don't listen to me just for my sake, I'm the guy that steers everyone away from extreme modifications. I don't want the entire board jumping down my throat! 30" tires are small and don't look as cool as bigger tires, and if you lift it it's just going to look silly.

http://www.crawlpedia.com/tire_size_converter.htm check out this website, it does the calculations for you. If your truck came stock with 31" tires then the 265/75/16s should be a close fit that just barely has enough clearance. According to the conversion site, it's 32" x 10.4. I'm currently running 31 / 10.50s and 32" is as much as I would increase for several reasons: Clearance without a lift (I think) tire weight and overall gearing. The larger the tire, the lower your torque because your overall gear ratio is increased so that puts a damper on acceleration and power overall. I know this may sound a bit funny but now that I finally have my 31s (up from 235/75/15s) I'm starting to think I should have just gone to 30" x 9.5 on a good set of M/Ts combined with a simple 2" lift (i know, it's goofy as hell) that truck would be one hell of a functional vehicle. Traction, clearance, lighter weight tire, slightly more torque than average. Come on, who's with me?!? (crickets...)...hello..???

Good Lord, I had no idea how lucky I was. Mine works and I ownly play with (use) it occasionally..all this time I guess I kinda took my little popper for granted...

oopss, my mistake..duh. Thanks for the correction guys.

I don't understand, the water pump is part of the timing belt KIT! Why would he not have replaced the water pump? Or, atleast I think some of those kits come with the pump..come to think of it, I guess I did have to buy mine separately. I say cut your losses, and take your new engine / timing belt and find a new mechanic!

That little black box is not the data recorder from when you crash...it is however your ECU and is supposed to be under one of the seats. In my 94 it's under the driver, I don't know about the 91. I guess the position doesn't really matter, It could be in your glove box or the center console or screwed to the ceiling. At least that way you'd have to flood the entire vehicle to damage it! The previous owner must have had a really bad ongoing problem, so he relocated it to where he could observe the error code light in real time as he was experiencing whatever was plagueging the truck, and then he'd had quick access to reset it.