gv280z

What are you talking about? What defeat? I never attacked you or tried to push you off your position, I was just trying to wrap my head around what you were saying and no, I didn't believe you...but that's my problem, not yours. And after reading the archive post from Mr. Jim provided by B, I'm more inclined to at least give it an "Apparently Plausible" while still remaining in dis-belief. Would I ever EVER try this with my truck? NOPE. I'm totally afraid it would destroy it in the process if it were successful. I guess I treated you a little harsh and for that I'm sorry, I didn't mean to belittle you. I'm not one of these haters that has to flame everyone out regarding whatever they're doing or talking about. Anybody can become a big man sitting there behind his monitor and keyboard, that's not my way. I wish I had an incredible story for you that my Pathy has gone through. While it has been through some pretty rough conditions and surprised the hell out of me when I though I was done for, I wouldn't label any of them amazing or unbelievable. For me I just respect my truck solely for the ability to take my family and our gear on a long drive safely there and back without breaking down and it's a 20 year old vehicle. And even in it's stock configuration it can do all of the above plus escape offroad over curbs and through ditches and never blink an eye.

uh huh..in 4 low? how? the rig and trailer weigh 5x as much as the Pathy.. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

Okay you're just going to have to elaborate please...how's that now?

oh, well I was talking about the triumph, but of course who doesn't love a set of American racing alloys? those are old school and still expensive. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

I actually like those rims though..classic mag wheels..

That is nice man...this is what I'm talking about, all this great tech is colliding in such a way now as to give us ways of shooting film and photography on an intimate level that hasn't really been practically accessible before. Now we've got Amazon and some place in Russia or somewhere crazy like that delivering items via drone! These are truly wonderous times we're living in...and all I wanna do is play with 80s Japanese sports cars, you gotta love em.

For all the Haters out there, I just want to drop a line and show what a little jewel Kyle's new car is..pretty hot little number, these are highly sought after. Good find Dude and way to go on getting that engine in there so damn quickly, how'd you do that anyway? Check out this link, I know it's not EXACTLY like yours but they do share significant DNA. Don't be so hard on B, he cares about ya, just didn't want to see you waste your money. http://www.autoblog.com/2007/04/26/future-classic-1991-94-nissan-sentra-se-r/ I would be super pumped to find a good deal on one like in this article...makes me miss my old Prelude Si.

it should shift once, from first to second and then stay there, I don't think it starts out in 2nd and yes I agree, try one shift selection up, neutral ? that might be your Drive. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

Okay, Today I did switch out the very much too soft KYB twin tube shocks KY344430 for the stronger and firmer KYB Mono tube shocks that I got from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291068634600?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 I paid $29 a piece for them, free shipping and they came 2 days later. My son and wife and I swapped them in this evening and they are a huge improvement over the first pair. I am very happy with these, I don't think I'm going to have to mess with my shocks again for a long time. These are firm but they do have just a little bit of give to them, just enough that you almost didn't notice it. Tonight on the way home I went through a really bad road dip crossing an intersection and they did great, and I was going kinda quick..like 15 or 20, where you'd usually go through around 2 or 3 mph for that dip. They are much harder to compress by hand and have a very forceful rebound when you let go. I had to compress several times during the installation just to get the stem through the top mount, it's hard to keep it compressed. Nissanland you were dead on right about the metal tabs and needing that bolt to tighten up, I absolutely did see that the tab was bent when I took the other pair out. So I did shim that long bolt up with a couple of washers and a lock washer. Another mistake I realized I had made before was I hadn't properly used the rubber bushings and washers on the top mount. During the installation tonight I picked up on my mistake and corrected it. Originally I didn't use one of the brass washers settled down around the base of the stem facing up to hold the bushing, and then another on top so that the bushing is sandwiched between the two, AND THEN at that point do you allow the threaded stem to rise up through the top mount, I used another washer on top and then screwed down the nut, holding the shock body tight with one hand while using a wrench to tight the nut. The mistake that I did born of ignorance was I had allowed the rubber bushing to mash down against the top of the shock / base of the stem, I didn't understand. So, my total bill for my shocks and labor was roughly $110 for a set of KYB shocks, rears are KY344045 Excel G twin tube, front's are KG5476 Gas A Just monotube shocks. Rear shock installation labor was 2 hours; front installation also about 2 hours but this includes personal complications of fixing errors, removing drivers side wheel and shock a 2nd time after finishing both sides and teaching wife and son how to use air ratchet, torque wrench and lug nut star tightening method that all dads are responsible for teaching their sons. I am totally happy and satisfied with these shocks and recommend as perfect replacements for daily driving and maybe mild offroading, I'm not afraid to take my truck anywhere at this point. If you are going to buy these don't give sticker price for them, look around. The rears I got free shipping and $24 a piece from Auto Parts Warehouse.com Ofcourse, now my only real issue is I kinda want to get a set of the Gas A Just for the rear now...I may do this 6 months to a year from now....

Is yours a manual or automatic transmission? I wonder if the dealership screwed up and gave you a 4cyl tranny and here your v6 is saying come on lets GO!! If it is an automatic like Slartibartfast said above turn your power switch back to economic, and / or switch on your O/D, does your dash have an O/D light on? If so push the button on the gear selector and that should settle it down. 6 grand sounds high for 70, even with the overdrive turned off. Hmmm...if it is auto...yeah, the more I think on it I'm leaning toward Slartibartfast theory on the kickdown / up not working right, that's related to your TPS and vehicle speed sensor...which your speed sensor should be brand new so try adjusting and experiment a little with your tps mounted on the side of the throttle body. It somehow determines at what speed the trans shifts into the next gear. I have had this happen to me too..mine finally just worked itself out and fixed itself somehow.

Nice looking truck Travisg, clean straight body. It'll love you and take care of you just as much as you do for it. These things are mega sleepers, have soo much heart and capability that your going to be finding your self saying "Oh my God! Holy crap this thing is awesome!" Just wait for the first hole that you drop through unexpectedly while out trail riding, and it'll soak it up and pull you through, I know, it happened to my son and I.

I've just checked every page in The Garage how to section and I'm kinda surprised that I can't find this. Why is there no How To mention of swapping in the 4 valve VG30 heads from the 300ZX? I can't be the only one to think of this, I'd be in shock if I were...I'm just interested in the performance gains from doing this and I would think it'd be a common mod for all the deep pull the engine apart guys. I don't have a clue how to do it because ofcourse it involves pulling the heads and adapting the longer timing chains to fit around both cams and getting the valve timing correct, all of which is WAAY above my head, but I understand it in theory. The incoming heads and cams would have to be at TDC and the receiving engine as well I'd guess. In my mind I think this would be a major horsepower upgrade. I'm interested to hear all of your response.

Hah! That's funny, you're right..I guess it looks cool but my son and I learned the hard way about having the windows open while mudding and getting stuck, and then unstuck..when you get lots of wheel spin while in reverse, everything come right in through the windows. We were covered in mud, there was mud all over the arm rest and door liner..from that point on we always have the windows up and the roof closed.

Welcome to your first real marriage. Hopefully you can find your future Fiance on the trail because otherwise she'll always be jealous that the Pathy gets more attention and money spent on it than her! Tread lightly and Welcome

Potential energy has to be introduced by from an exterior force for it to be transfered into kinetic energy like a charged battery or a tank full of explosive flammable chemical and the thing goes until it runs out, regardless of how efficient or inefficient. I have mulled this over in my mind so often I can't find a way around it: When a thing uses the present potential energy to move itself, any energy it creates through a gear and pulley system generated by its movement will never be greater than or even equal to the necessary energy required to move it in the first place...it's impossible. Even nuclear energy doesn't do this, it's just a heightened form of introducing an outside source of energy into another thing, it's a reserve of fuel energy that will take forever to burn out, like a star. Our modern gas / diesel engine does incorporate many perpetual cause and effect characteristics, the entire operation happens because one thing is connected to another: The spark ignites the combustion so the engine will turn over and make force and a fraction of that force is used in turning the distributor to send the next spark energy, which comes from the battery that is kept charged by the alternator and so on, but the moment that explosive force is removed from the equation, it's all over. I've wanted for soooo long, and even now I still dream of it (lately its been a winding / unwinding back and forth of rubber bands and gyroscopes, the one that unwinds creates the energy to wind the other back and forth) to be able to really invent or even theoretically design some rudimentary perpetual motion machine that you can set to action and it will see to itself from that moment on....after all, right...an object in motion tends to stay in motion, but friction is the killer. I know there has got to be some equation or law of physics that defines that "The energy needed to create energy would always be multiple times that which was created." Has anyone ever worked out all the math and science going on with a baseball bat and a ball and a homerun? Greg

I think the grinding going into 4 low is normal, mine does it too. I wouldn't be overly concerned with 4 low just for wheeling offroad, 4 high does a good job of getting you through the muck or up steep inclines just fine. For most trail and mud riding 2 hi or 4 hi will do fine. 4 low would be if you get into some really technical climbing or pulling someone out.

sigh, nevermind, I can't make anything work right tonight...I got nothin.

Uhh...I know this is for Isuzu but they've got some nice rims, this page shows all their rims and sizes and specs, bs and all that. When I began this post I thought all the Isuzu allow rims were 16s..and then I learned differently, only some of them are so now I'm left without a topic to post on except this feeble attempt at something relevant to say...check this link: http://www.wheelsandcaps.com/c-2283-oem-aluminum-alloy-wheels.aspx?pagenum=3

Lol, OK ;-) all excellent points, and reading between the lines I get your frustation and I understand. I didn't say I like it but unfortunately your neighbor and I are a lot alike, but luckily I can sometimes be made to see reason and actually can cut out the b.s. in the middle. I can't help but agree with everything you said, it is silly to do it over and over several times in a row for no good reason. I will start looking into the ranchos and see what I can learn. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

Ask and ye shall receive http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2014/02/06/diesel-nissan-pickup-explores-new-frontier/?intcmp=obinsite

they're expensive as crap though..I can't really justify paying $50 a shock right now. So far I've been able to get mine for $25 and $30, and this next pair will be $29 and yes I will get my money back for this current set I'm sending back. Plus I have this one particular itch in me that won't let me do what every one else is doing just for the sake of it, I usually have to work my way around to it on my own because I've learned why and why not, which makes it really hard to take advice at times. After I get over this hump I might wait a little while..couple of months or so, and start buying one shock a month.

Okay..I just watched a short youtube video on the twin tube vs mono tube design involving the Gas Adjust shocks and I thinks that's key..I'm sensing that our trucks did come stock with the more robust mono tube design..hence the reason why WD21Colorado and I had such adverse reactions to the standard twin tube KYB shocks, up front anyway...not really sure about the rears, I guess they are just overly stiff. So far I'm okay with the rear, albeit they're a little bouncy at times.

yea, this is the first time I've had the front wheels off so I don't really know how its supposed to look in there, whatever that liner is I guess like Ahardbody said it's just torn away for some reason. I think I found the shocks I'm going to experiment with next to replace these, going to use KYB Gas adjust shocks..these seem quite a bit beefier...sound like a better built shock and I'm actually wanting to try them in the rear now as well... I don't really understand, says they are a monotube and part gas, part hydraulic or something like that...a hybrid shock I guess? I think these really are the right ones, and I found them on Ebay for $29 a shock and free shipping to boot!

Well, it's official, I don't like the new KYB shocks up front..the ones in the rear are fine but the fronts are too soft. My truck is still totally controllable, it's not like it's gone dangerous to drive or anything of the sort. However I just really don't like the feel of them and going over rises in the road has my front end going up and down slightly a few times after clearing the elevation change in the pavement. I'm going to return them as quickly as I can get another set ordered and thrown on there..but have to do with finesse so as to not set off the wife alarm.

man..that is a deal...you paid like a whole $25 more for the entire set than I did at Discount tire for my drive out Cooper AT3's 31/10.50 15s, and you got free shipping too...nice.