gv280z

Nissanland you just described my truck with three exceptions: Power adjust mirrors, Sunroof (which is completely useless) and the Economy / Power option...and maybe the front rear speaker / tweeter combo which I don't know if that was an SE option or not. How about the tachometer? Did all XE have a tach? Mine also had the electronic suspension and fog lights...so the main SE options it seems were the Power shifting array, power mirrors, LSD, Sunroof, surround sound with tweeters, fog lights, electronic suspension, and I guess nerf bars? Mine did have the bars at one time but they were broken off and gone when I got it. I don't know if it ever had the brush gaurd.

Oh my GOD GrandpaX your rig is like..a porno movie on wheels man, that's what I call one nice piece of work man! I absolutely love that thing, it's great! I like that you didn't go so big with the tires, you kept it reasonable on the tires and rims. What are those, 32s? Nice SAS, bumper, lift..very cool. Classy.

if the release isn't working, it's because the catch in there broke. I was able to use a tiny little metal pin to push through the tab that moves up and down, all the way through the coils of the spring to where it catches and holds when you pull on it

Uhhh..is it different on the 87 from the 94? If not, the ICM is attached directly to the right side intake, right behind the coil...if yours looks anything like this it's the light grey little trapazoidal looking box right behind the coil, attached directly to the intake plenum, in this pic you can see one of the screws attaching it.

Check this out y'all, I found this website that has a ton of clearance / lightly used items for sale under the "Yard Sale" section. This link will take you straight there: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/yard-sale/universal-parts.html?p=1 Looks like some pretty good useable items in here.

I have had this happen to me. What I did was use a flathead screwdriver to jimmy the little plastic catch tab, just tick it in there and give it a tap and it'll open up. I did have to remove mine and figure out how to fix the latch, I've already passed this course I'll let you cheat off my paper if you need help Your going to have to remove the latching mechanism completely from the glovebox, take it inside and sit down at your kitchen table to work on it. I know exactly what happened and basically how to fix it, I had to improvise as will you but it can be done.

I've just recieved my front KYB shocks and yes they are scary soft, just like you said I can compress them easily..I just don't understand that. Part of me wants to go ahead and instal them anyway and the other part of me says to send them back, get the refund and start working on a set of DT3000s..why would they make the rear shocks so much more firm than the fronts? I guess it's supposed to be for comfort, and who knows when I pull the current used shocks off the front, they may be even SOFTER and more extremely weaker than the new KYBs...sometimes I'm not even sure if I need to replace the fronts..but atleast I'll know then exactly where I stand with my shocks because the current set were on there when I bought my truck 2 1/2 years ago. Who knows, maybe they'll ride just fine. Probably going to do the install this weekend.

I'm sorry, I cannot offer you any insight regarding the ST Maxx, OTHER than to say that I can't remember having seen them on any trucks around and I do pay attention to other truckers tires. Mainly I see a lot of BFG a/t ko, mud terrain (both types) Falken Rocky mountains, and Cooper ATP. I haven't seen too much of my own AT3 out there on the job sites though..oh and a lot of Michellin A/T As long as you're staying in the all terrain tire genre, I second the Cooper Disco AT3, I've taken my set through everything from 6 hour highway road trip to fairly deep sand to hard packed dirt and loose watery mud, I've had pretty successful mudding session with them up to this point, also very good in the wet too. These I think have one point on the ST Maxx and it's that the outside lugs are staggered a bit, where as the big outside lugs on the Maxx follow one behind the other. I would put my AT3's up against the Maxx under any conditions. When I finally decided on the Cooper Disco's, the only other tire I was really looking at was the General Grabber AT/2 (I still really like the look of these, and if you go to youtube you can see a jeep cherokee that runs them, playing with a Mitsu Delica in really thick, deep mud.) The only reason I opted out of the AT/2 at the last minute was the tire sales man kinda highlighted for me the rubber composition on the Cooper, and the fact that the General was based on old tech, old design, where the AT3 was new. Almost forgot, the new Toyo Open Country AT2 looked really hot as well... http://www.walmart.com/ip/General-Grabber-AT2-Light-Truck-and-SUV-Tire-LT235-75R15/14964143 http://www.treaddepot.com/group/opat2.html

I'm pretty sure any shock that fits the R50 will work and I would be in a state of shock if one of the supposed offroad specific shocks DIDN'T fit a 2" lift, which is less than mild by comparison. Just go to JC Whitney or Auto parts warehouse and enter your vehicle, here I'll do it for you: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/??D=rancho+-+shock+absorber+and+strut+assembly&Dx=mode+matchallany&N=0&Nr=AND%28universal%3A0%29&Ntk=Main&Ntt=rancho+-+shock+absorber+and+strut+assembly&Ntx=mode+matchallany&Nty=1&PN=0+4294890173&VN=4294960609+4294960583+4294967166+4294964934+4294966786&domain=autopartswarehouse.com&mvtgroup=B&query_type=Product+Results&Nr=AND%28universal:0%29&refType=Series&refValue=Rancho+Rs5000 I like the Auto warehouse because they have free shipping and fair prices, and you can pay with Paypal. Apparently on the R50 there is no distinction between the rear shocks and front, like on the WD21s that have eyelets for the rear but a stem on top in the front. I can't find front and rear shocks for the R50 so they must be universal fitment. I know WD21Colorado just put these on his truck and is happy with them.

all you need (if I remember correctly) is just a flat head screw driver and just pry it out at the corners and it'll pop out. You could try to pull back the fabric a little and look to see what's holding it in there, I don't think it has any screws in it, the speaker itself does though. But no, the roof panel does not come down.

If you don't have any spark, it sounds to me like your ECU fuse got blown during all the drama, or it's a safety cut off and now the computer won't let the engine start until you get it fixed...or you've a blown head gasket and no compression, and that's why it won't start.

I'll try the same test when I get mine in. What color are your KYB's ? They sound way too soft if you can do that by hand in 2 or 3 seconds, how much force did you have to apply, like all your strength, half...the ones I installed in the rear for my truck are pretty firm, I'm just waiting for them to get broken in. Should the front's be firmer than the rear because of having the weight of the engine to support / control? If they are then my truck is going to ride like a tank once I'm done !

4x6? Why you go smaller? I'm still loving my RF 5x7s, best value for dollar item I've bought for my Pathy!

Hey Colorado I just did a quick VS search trying to compare the ES9000 to some other shocks, and what I saw was they tend to be waay too stiff and some guys couldn't wait to get rid of them...but, it's all relative, you know? All the products we deal with really are all over the map when you're asking a large group of people. From tires A/T - M/T - Bogger / Swamper to different brands to Gas shocks and hydraulic shocks, Gabriel and Bilstein and Pro Comp, Rancho and on and on...you know what man...it's a freaking roll of the dice. All you can do is study as hard as you can and then make an informed decision based on what your gut tells you and hope for the best. Personally, my instincts say to be wary of the Pro Comps but I know dirt squat dude, all I have to go on is what I've read about them, and so I decided on a different direction and so far it looks like it's going to work out for me and my experiences within my own little situation.

What you call a beater for $8000 I call a damn NICE Infinity QX4 from around 2003 - 2004 year model, last one before the R51. For that much money you should be able to find one with low miles (low meaning around 100,000) Or you could get two really nice 98's loaded and have a back up spare for your secondary vehicle! As far as I know (I've no experience with an R50, I'm a WD21 owner) Rust is always a big deal so if you can find a more southern vehicle where the snow is less, that might help. I'd poke around in here and see if you can find any patterns developing on certain issues, what are people always seeming to be dealing with?

I'll think about it..we'll see, something like this I think I might be able to do but I need to give it time to let the idea settle in. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

YIKES!! You lost me at "Lower the axle and let it hang loose" huh and what?? I'd rather use a spring compressor and that's if I even cared about using those stupid booster things. Maybe one day I will. Thank you for the advice, I know it was stupid..I paid half a mind to what was going on.. I have a deadly job too, I deal with big rubber balloons that when they explode and your standing next to it, you're either dead or bleeding from the ears, there was one that knocked over a track hoe, like a 345c or something.

I put the coil boosters inside the coils between the bottom and 2nd two coils on both sides. I would have to use a spring compressor and completely remove the spring to put underneath or on top. And no, I didn't have any other safety brace to hold the truck while I was underneath it, before going under I gave the whole thing a good shake to make sure it wasn't about to fall off the forks or roll forward, which was my concern. I considered putting into 4 Lo but didn't...I guess I didn't think it would engage to keep the front wheels planted so I didn't mess with it. But, the entire time I was paying close attention and did imagine the whole thing coming down on me. But if I did die that way my wife and kid would be wealthy and I would be the new Darwin awards winner!

Let me start by saying how undeserving-ly stupid lucky and humbled I am because I just happen to have a shop at my disposal with forklift and air tools. That would be the shop I work at but we are not a mechanic shop. So today I did use my forklift and airtools to do the easiest possible thing it seems on our vehicles to do and that's the rear shocks. I say easy, I don't know, it did seem pretty straight forward (yea right with my truck ass end 4 feet off the ground) But I just wanted to give a big nod to you guys who figure out how to do waay more intense stuff than replacing shocks without the aid of mechanical lifting and air tools. My job today did take me right at 2 hours even with that stuff, 2 hours. So after a lot of searching and wondering and reading I settle on the KYB Excel G shocks. I had been going back and forth with these and the DT3000 shocks which look pretty tough. I'd read / heard something strange about Rancho 5000s and saw many conflicting reports, people hate them, they're terrible / people swear by them, love them won't have any other shock and the fact that they don't rebound because they're oil filled instead of gas charged? Oh and the fact that I found the KYB's on killer sale for dirt cheap, that helped a lot too. Also for a very long time I've been wanting to try the coil insert boosters, round strips of rubber you stuff inside the coil springs...I thought that would be a cheap easy way to get some lift, so I did that today too. So I got up under my truck and this is what I found: couple of old shocks and rear axle, obviously. I was able to use my air ratchet to remove the nuts on the lower mounts but had to use a hand ratchet on top, first one side, then the other and also stuffed both coil inserts in the coils, bolted in my new shocks easy peasy. and done. Not quite. So I drive home after running some errands and trying to get a feel for the new ride...it's really bouncy and kinda nervous...well, maybe the shocks and coil boosters will break in over time...Oh almost forgot!: Coil booster for lift is absolutely worthless, it didn't do anything, I took before and after shots, no difference...and then it started bugging me that I was getting false readings from my new shocks because of the coil boosters, so I did run back to my shop, drug the forklift back out again and crawled back under to rip those things out! Now I know 100% the feedback I'm getting is from my shocks and it's says they are pretty firm but I expect they'll break in nicely and settle down, I'm happy at this point, now I just need to get the fronts done. I think for the mild offroading that I haven't done in a long time now, these shocks are perfect and were dirt cheap, and I'll never have to pay for another set off shocks again RE: the limited lifetime warranty. Before the coil boosters After coil boosters duhhh.....crap.

Well I installed my rear KYB Excel G Black shocks today and so far so good, I like them at this point. They do have a firm ride but so far it's okay. I've got quite a few pics but in this post I'm only using two, as I'm going to have my own write up in separate post. you can see in the pic above the coil spacers behind the shocks, I've already ripped those out, I didn't like them.

Man...so that means I've a chance of the same thing happening to me, unless you just somehow got a bad set. Now I'm thinking maybe I should just go straight to the DT3000s. Every review I read about these said they were firmer than the original but not unpleasantly so, they were the Goldilocks shock..apparently. I guess I'm going to go ahead and install my rear shocks today and wait until I can buy the front ones, I'll let you know how the rears perform. #344045

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=KYB+GR-2&submit= That page above has the KYB Excel G / GR2 front and rear shocks for our vehicle and is what I'm currently in the middle of setting up now. I've just received my rear shocks that I bought from Auto Warehouse for 26 bucks a piece, normally they're around 40 or 50. The fronts are 30 each. Every review I've read for these is positive so I'm pretty excited about them. And yes, I'm going to use them offroad too, just like you. They'll meet or exceed OEM, well our vehicle left the factory as an offroad capable truck, so these will be as good if not better than the original. If it weren't these, I'm pretty sure I was going to get the Doetsch Tech 3000 for around $38 each, which I still may eventually if I don't like these KYB's...but I've got a good feeling about them.

Hey Superpollo I'm in Houston, hit me up when you get here, i'd like to meet you. Send me a pm

I've got the same thing too, same deal Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

I wonder if this is something for venting pressure out of the transmission and the whole point to the length of it is just so the tranny wouldn't be taking in water because of the pipe, so they raised it waaay up and then pointed it down. It's a blow-off riser that won't take on water. I dunno.