gv280z

Well it turns out there wasn't much to see as both spacers had already cracked and fallen apart and were mostly gone having fallen to the road while driving. Here are a couple of pics for what they are worth. <a href="http://s195.photobucket.com/user/gv280z/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140807_082505_zps3b07e9px.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z29/gv280z/Mobile%20Uploads/20140807_082505_zps3b07e9px.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140807_082505_zps3b07e9px.jpg"/></a> <a href="http://s195.photobucket.com/user/gv280z/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140807_082833_zpsjumx8wuw.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z29/gv280z/Mobile%20Uploads/20140807_082833_zpsjumx8wuw.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140807_082833_zpsjumx8wuw.jpg"/></a> <a href="http://s195.photobucket.com/user/gv280z/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140807_083110_zpsr3urtomi.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z29/gv280z/Mobile%20Uploads/20140807_083110_zpsr3urtomi.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140807_083110_zpsr3urtomi.jpg"/></a>

*I don't have pics YET* -BUT- I do have a little bit of new information regarding this subject: About two weeks ago Tx4x4Path helped me (he did all the work in his garage... ) install my rubber coil spacers under the rear coils which were a little over an inch in thickness. I got those spacers from O'Reilly auto parts for about 5 bucks a piece. They are complete crap. They have already cracked and splayed out under the weight of the vehicle sitting on them under the coils. As far as I can see, the WD21 has two lift options for the rear: A - (Most popular) Jeep Grand Cherokee springs B - Fleurys HDPE scalable spacers *Only spacer option I would recommend after my experience with these shown in the links below* I have since already procured myself a set of JGJ rear springs off craigslist but have yet to install them. Don't use these : Don't use them like this nor under the coil spring...these things suck. Fleurys spacers are the only spacer. I will have pics soon of my cracked and splayed spacers as they sit under my coils before removing them and installing the JGJ lift, and Tx4x4Path and I are going to re-index my bars at the same time to provide my front lift.

Why not go ahead and try it, it may provide some water shed.

I think it's your starter, I've experienced something very similar, if not this exact scenario before and it was a bad starter. You could probably try turning the key back and forth trying to start ten times over and it may catch a time or two. If not the starter, then Ignition relay maybe? That's easier to check, start there with the relay.

That's just dry rot, those are old tires...yep, you are due some new tires. Why not check out the TBC private brands eh? Actually, I think the treadwrights are in the same price category as the TBC and Hercules as well, if you want budget tires. Check this out, Cooper Cobra radial gt in a 255 70 15 for $90 a tire at Discount tire: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTireDetail.do?ra=searchTiresBySize.do&fl=&tc=COPPA1&c=2&rcz=77598&pc=27887&ar=70&rf=true&rd=15&rc=TSEINT&cs=255 http://www.tbcprivatebrands.com/ they are all pretty much the same, I kinda like the look of the Wild Country XTX and the Trail Cutter rt, as those seem to be the most aggressive all terrains offered. Txpath4x4 has a set of the Hi-flys if you want an opinion of those, I wheeled with him once and he didn't get stuck...so they seemed to do okay. Also, don't count out your local used tire shop, you can find some great deals on a set of used tires in some of those places. I've got a full set of Nitto Terra grapplers (3 actually, one is a Toyo Open country A/T2 but it's pretty close!) on my work truck with lots of tread, really good meat left on them, 4 tires 265 75 17s mounted and balanced for $200 dude, can't beat it. I'm sorry, I forgot your link you posted showing those all tracs, those look good man, I liked a couple of those Herc tires, they look like they'd be good in wet weather and ride good, here you go, I found a link for these. http://www.offroaders.com/reviewbox/showproduct.php?product=661

That's exactly where my rust was! Middle and drivers side, exactly. Infact the middle was really bad, the guy had to do a little paint work after he fixed it, meaning that's how much he had to dig into it to get all the cancer, clean it up and then I'm guessing bondo, dry and paint. Damn, 600 man..that's rough, sorry to hear that, after all it's not like you were just walking around one day, having 600 bucks burning a hole in your pocket, looking for something useful to do with itself.

I didn't even see the wobble, and I was looking for it. I think it's something like a compressor pulley bearing going out, or the alternator belt needs tightening

yes please use all the parts that come with your shocks in those little baggies, there are no extra parts meaning when your done, every rubber bushing and every washer will have been utilized. You may want to check your torsion bars, you could put Bilsteins on there but if your front end has no or very little spring pre-load tension, the shocks won't work very well.

Let me guess, your truck dies occasionally when you come to a stop, or it idles roughly around 300 rpm and blows black smoke, right? When mine did this, I also narrowed it down to the iacv, which I was able to remedy by having a 3 step Gunk fuel system treatment performed at my local kwik kar oil and lube station. What I really believe dealt the crushing blow was the 20 minute iv vacuum line drip with the engine running, they also put a bottle in the tank and spray cleaned the throttle body. After that it was fixed and never came back again.

I'm sorry to bring this up again but I had a major breakthrough yesterday with my truck and this entire front shock issue playing the accordion game bouncing up and down after going over a bump, even though the shocks are new, not blown. And then I thought the bushings being correctly installed had resolved the issue, it actually did not. BUT NOW!!!! This time I've got it, I SWEAR! I finally cranked on my torsion bars, I had no idea how sagging and unloaded they were, there was no tension on them so whenever I went over a bump or sharp rise, the front end would go up and down excessively. Well, now after having cranked my bars, the ride is fixed and the shocks can actually do their job because they're in the right position and there's a lot more tension on the front. After I finished, I was able to do a little offroading and I love the way it felt, tough and firm, confident. This upcoming weekend I'm finally going to put the rear coil spacers in and bring up the rear a little bit, bout a 1.5" lift. Now I know, it wouldn't have mattered what shock I put in there, it still would have done the same thing because the front spring tension was screwed to begin with, so I am sure if I tried again the KYB GR2 shocks in the front, as I did before, probably would have been great instead of uncontrollable. It seems I really didn't lift the front much, but the bolts are just about out of adjustment, I guess that's where re-indexing comes in to it. Regardless, having a new love affair with my truck

Dude, you are the MAN! I'm glad you're my friend cuz I don't know how to a tenth of that crap you just soldiered through. I did however, catch what Precise was saying about cutting / reforming thread, that's cool because in my line of work where I've got hydraulic lines with male pipe threading into 85 lb pneumatic plugs, sometimes those threads get gummed up and I have to re cut new threads and hope it doesn't make the inflation port too large and loose for 1/4" pipe. So, whatever that is, that rolled tech, I need those kind of tap...

That's at least got to go for $2500, I'd probably place for $3,200 and let 'em gig ya a bit.

Does it speed up and slow down with engine rpm? I just thought it sounded like an exhaust leak. I think I agree with someone above stating remove one wire at a time until you find the one that when you pull it, nothing changes, the engine ignores the fact that you just removed a wire so atleast you'll be able to narrow it down to which cylinder it is. I'd have to take a stab at the injector you replaced and one or two of the pins on it is different than the harness, like a ground wire or some other signal pin isn't in the right spot, you might have used an injector with different mapping so it's not firing that cylinder, no combustion. Why not remove the wires one at a time until you can confirm the culprit cylinder also happens to be the one with the newly replaced injector, then swap that injector into another cylinder that you obviously know is firing and see if you can re-create the problem.

I paid $550 in labor for my timing belt replacment, my mechanic did me a solid. the belt kit and water pump and gasket was probably $100. That actually also included trans fluid drain and refill and trans cooler flush.

Which timing is it do you think slipped as a result of the harmonic balancer coming loose? Is that only ignition timing that would be affected, and not valve timing? At first when I read this I was thinking the valve timing got screwed, which would mean bent valves, but now I'm thinking it's only ignition...

You're talking to a bunch of guys that have had gazillions of past cars in each ones history and years of just built up acquired knowledge from personal experience that did not happen over night. This will be a lifelong endeavor. All you can hope to do at this stage is just start reading and trying to absorb anything you can just to build a base of relativity. Start with the easy things like spark plugs and oil change. You can't learn a language if you don't have point of reference, you've gotta start learning what things mean. This is the Language of Auto Tech. When you get frustrated don't be scared to just put everything down and take a step back, sleep on it. Slow your pace and just try to let little bits and pieces come into your wheel house gradually. It's going to take some time. Eventually your mind will start putting the pieces together and you'll start to get whispers of inspiration that come bubbling up to the surface and you'll find yourself saying.."hey! I think I get this! When I get home I'm going to try x, y & z...." That's how it starts.

Hehehe..you don't think you did, I'm paying 180 for the glass, and 200 for the rust work, and both of those have already been cut down a bit from 200 and 250 respectively. It was going to be 400 and then I told the guy I had more work for him...I also saw an R50 in for the same thing and that windshield had been replaced by one that we all see commercials for and being re-imbursed by your auto insurance...that company didn't use any primer, just a slapped in job. I guess on the upside, it'll have a warranty and a tint brow and in glass radio antennae That's kinda nice stuff that I didn't need to spend 400 bucks on but what the hell, eh?

Hey guys, well this morning I've had to learn a new hard lesson I was formerly ignorant about. Windshield frame rust. Over the past couple of months, I'd started experiencing a few little drips from the top of my windshield which got worse, it became more of a steady constant drip in a good soaking rain. Well I thought I could fix by just ripping out the old weather stripping and put in a new one. That didn't work. So I took it to a windshield glass repair place and asked them to install for me a new molding to go around the windshield. Not happening. What is needed is actually to remove the windshield, at which time during removal supposedly the windshield is going to break so it'll also need to be replaced...sigh...okay, fine replace the new windshield with the new molding so the truck doesn't have water leaking inside anymore.... So I take it in this morning and they tell me they can't replace the windshield until after a frame / body repair tech cleans all the rust out of the windshield frame, so that they can then primer it, lay down the glue and install the new windshield properly. Holy crap! They told me they can do as best they can, install the new windshield but that it may start to leak and deteriorate within the next few years. So I'm mulling that over and trying to think about getting rid of it, trade it in at some point during the few good years....I don't know... Then the body guy says he can do the work for $200. Hmm...that's not as bad as I thought it was going to be...so I told him okay, get it done and that's where I'm at now. Get my truck back on Monday. But this is all because the previous owner who had that windshield installed didn't have it done correctly, the repair place didn't use any primer or prep work before just slapping that new windshield in there, which then allowed moisture to collect and begin the rust process. It's sorta opened my eyes to just one more thing now that you gotta watch out for (somehow) upon buying a new to you used car 2nd hand...ask has the windshield ever been replaced? If so, who did the work, did they do it correctly, is there a warranty. Look and see if the windshield has any factory or brand logo / stickers on it, look around the edges to try to detect any tampering around the windshield frame. Oh and apparently silicon and car finishes is bad. I guess it can accelerate rust and deterioration.

There are adapters you can get to go from 5x7 to 6.5" speakers for more out of the way thump. There are also high grade 5x7s that sound phenomenal. I'm 39 but revert back to a fool 18 year old driving around rocking out in my truck with two pair of 100 watt RF 5x7" Primes... Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

Manik that's pretty wide open man, could be any of a hundred things not good that I can think of. I think I'd start with a compression check.

Usually when this happens, it's one of the two, either the MAF ground wire is loose and requires a giggle...or the iacv is on the fritz, like what mine did a couple years ago, same exact deal and how many times have we seen this rear its ugly head on the forums now, atleast 2 or 3 a quarter. For me it was the 3 step fuel treatment at my local kwik car with the iv vacuum line drip for 20 minutes, tank additive and tb spray clean...after that it's gone, history and never came back. In this case, I think it really was the IV drip that actually did the work and must have knocked out the sludge blocking the valve.

Mount to the roof up against the hump where the stock speakers go. Personally I wouldn't even try it, though I have considered it. I think I'd just get away with whatever I could mounting some stout 6x9s in the original mounting holes amped up and call it a day. Hell my 100 watt RF 5x7 Primes have pretty good bass and hit (sort of..heh) running off the Sony Xplod 52 watt per channel head unit and stock vehicle amps. If I were to step those up to 200 watt 6.5" with a mild amp professionally installed, that would be...it. And still have 100 % utility factor. I think you'd be okay mounting the box to the ceiling in front of the stock speaker well.

Same here man, seeing that one, I feel I've got a Sammy bug nipping at my heels back there somewhere...I can feel it...Great looking little ride and probably just a bit better on gas...except for your low gearing, anyway...Be a fantastic run-a-bout / college town car...

Supertramp - Logical Song Group name and song, I think fit perfectly. Infact I think that's my trucks name..Supertramp. It was cheap to buy and old and forgotten about and underrated by 99 % of the world, and longs to be covered in filth, and yet it's got a great engine, new tires, new audio, new timing belt and a clean interior and nice looking exterior. A Dichotomy worthy of the name.

All hubs lock, it's just a matter of whether they are automatic locking hubs like the factory 4 wheel drive shift on the fly system, or the manual type where you get out and lock each one. Both types (unless it was designed as a full time 4wd system like a Subaru or Land Cruiser) can only be driven where there will be some slippage on the ground. Trust me, you'll know you're in the wrong if you ever leave it in 4 hi and try to drive on dry pavement, it feels like the front end gets all binded up and really heavy, then all of a sudden 'lets go' it's a creepy sensation. The problem with auto locking hubs (I have tested this) is that they always unlock in reverse, even in 4 lo. Next time you're in dirt shift into 4 hi and drive forward a few feet, then reverse slowly and you'll hear a small click, that's the front hubs unlocking. It's just the nature of the beast, (my F250 has 4wd in reverse though..why is that?) I guess that was the only way the engineers could come up with to allow the front hubs to be able to engage when you're on the road going ten miles an hour in a flood and decide you want 4 wheel drive, you shift and the axles turn thereby locking the hubs...but as the saying goes...'What goes up....' The engineers knew that 99 % of the time we really only need 4wd while going forward, so they gave the hub itself a way to unlock conveniently, all you have to do is reverse, after shifting back into 2 hi.