gv280z

Hmm, that looks like a Nissan option to me...it's perfect, the contour matches the fender. Or there is someone out there building really great winch bumpers for R50s.

I used 2.25, and no I didn't get any gains that I know of, but after I eventually install two new high flow cats and all the piping at 2.25...yeah, there'll probably be something there..just the muffler by itself, not really...to tell you the truth, I'm not sure I didn't loose power...

I KNOW, I know exhaust talk AGAIN.....I just wanted to highlight my own personal experience, for what it's worth. I just had this Flowtech Raptor installed for a 100 bucks, muffler cost me $30 at O'Reilly auto parts: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FLTM/50050FLT/N0599.oap?ck=Search_N0599_-1_-1&pt=N0599&ppt=C0112 and I'm really happy with it. It's an upgrade over the heavy, giant original muffler, cheap as Sin and has a nice, low, barely audible rumble. There's absolutely NO cabin drone noise, it's not obnoxious in any way, you can hear the exhaust tone once you know it but any other person riding in the car would never know anything was different. Power not bad either, sounds good but within reason under heavy acceleration...I can't tell you for certain that there is any power increase, drivability seems to be slightly improved..I think...could be psychosomatic and I just filled up so I'll have to wait to see any mileage gains. I'm really happy cause also got my exhaust hung correctly, apparently it's been broken off the hangers for last 3 years and ever time i'd hit a bump I could always feel something loose slapping the underside of the truck and it drove me nuts! Also learned that what I thought was a resonator that I could have deleted, turns out that I'm lucky enough to have TWO inline catalytic converters! WTH? So that'll be my next cut and replace..couple of high flow cats. So anyway, if your in need of a cheap, basic new muffler that may get you a little better flow over OEM and NO annoying exhaust drone filling the cabin...check it out, for me...way worth $30 entirely.

Toyota Celica GT4 All Trac turbo circa 92 - 94, round there..

Yes, I do and it pisses me off to see what disgusting, ghettofied lengths that people will stoop to on how to really screw up a once great car...but guess what, I've got a little ray of sunshine for you...errr...I think. You see, I've only just "discovered" this car for myself and now I'm really charged up about them.... The early to mid 90s Lexus SC 400 and 300. I'm way more partial to the SC300 because I like the straight 6 double overhead cam Supra engine. I've always loved Supras and here I've found where they all migrated to in camouflage. These cars only really had one generation and only had slight cosmetic and small engine variances and seems to me have been largely ignored / looked over or forgotten about. The really interesting thing is the 300 is only just a shade slower 0-60 than the 4.0 v8 engine'd SC400 and seems they'd have about the same rate of acceleration. I am stoked to have discovered these cars and would really like to get one. However, searching on CL does shows some signs of morons getting their hands on them too...but hopefully they are the minority. Ahh Lord... I'm wrong, they've been corrupted too. Sigh. Tried to find some good links but there are none, other than Wikipedia.

("++3 On the diff...I'm not sure about the locking hub but it seems to me something related to the diff itself...") Are you referring to my post? Cause the sentence above was the only time I mentioned the hubs, if the hub locks or binds up, then it would pull just as well as the other side that is also "locked", if it is broken and fails to lock then it just wouldn't give any power when needed. I'm focused on the ring and pinion gears inside the diff itself, or the output shaft may be corrupt, gnarled, binded up because of operating at a severe angle.

Acura NSX, Homina HOMINA!

Crap I totally forgot about the Honda S2000 for the classic category! That thing should be in a league of its own. I think it was one of the first of the newer small cars to have well into the 200 hp range out of a naturally aspirated 4 cyl engine, without nitrous. Just before that, the closest thing would have been the H22 from the last gen Prelude at like 195 hp, which was a lot from a 4 cyl without assistance, and that's the way I like 'em, all motor baby

If we are talking ugly, as in U. G. L. Y. the Ford Flex has got NO alibi! It looks like a refrigerator on wheels. And then I put the BMW Mini Clubman (extended version) behind that, I like Minis but that Clubman is horrid.

++3 On the diff...I'm not sure about the locking hub but it seems to me something related to the diff itself...say for instance the left side output shaft is binded up and can't spin, so that leaves all the power going RIGHT, to the passenger side..that tire is pulling hard because the other is bound up. I say, engage in 4 High and lift into the air, and just try to spin the tires, if you can't spin the left but are able to spin the right, or the left is unequally stiff to spin, the right spins more easily than the left...there you go...maybe you've got a caliper locked up..could be off balance hydraulics in the brake lines, or one of your caliper piston is siezed....oh but that doesn't explain why it's exclusively in 4 wheel that you have the problem... seems to me like one half of your diff is gummed up,...OR...it's a bad U joint in the axle, maybe due to a bad angle caused by the lift? Show us some pics of your front suspension and shafts. Is it possible for the splines to get crossed?

My recommendation is, if after you talk to your sons friend and tell him the work that needs to be done, and you tap all of your resources for advice and information...and nothing works out, and you feel you absolutely must do something about your truck, then spend $200 and get a decent set of used tires from a small tire shop, spray off the engine with degreaser in the car wash, and get the sunroof fixed...sell the car for $3700 neg, accept $3300 and pocket the $2900 left over cuz that's what it's worth in fair to good condition in your zip code of 68503 in Lincoln, here's the link for your car: http://www.kbb.com/nissan/pathfinder/1999-nissan-pathfinder/19995-se-sport-utility-4d/?condition=good&vehicleid=5880&intent=trade-in-sell&mileage=150000&options=224704|true|224692|true|224697|true|224708|true|224725|true|224765|true|224765|false|224760|true|224765|true|224828|true&pricetype=private-party

A lot of this stuff kinda seems like some hype to me. If I were you I'd first talk to everyone I know, use all your resources, and second, focus on the things that you are really aware of, that you know are affecting your drivability in this car, brakes, tires, sunroof...stuff like that. The necessity on some of this stuff is kinda left open to interpretation, and from their point of view it's like " It's good to just, you know, go ahead and get it done....and pay us..even though, it's not technically critical.." If your mechanic is worried about the bolts breaking, he can go ahead and change them out for a higher grade bolt, which would save you in the long run. This is an issue atleast with my generation of VG30 v6 engine, yes,the bolts do break...it's a common problem. It's not a reason to throw away a car.

When I bought my 94 SE, I paid 1800 for it, and then immediately paid 350 to have a broken exhaust manifold stud fixed. KBB on my truck is around 2500. Since then I've put 800 in tires on it, and a new windshield at 380 because of rust. I put a stereo and speakers in it for about 250...it's due for an exhaust system overhaul....and guess what? I'm handing this one down to my son in a few years when he starts driving, and I couldn't be happier. I'd never batt an eye. It's a good vehicle and it's staying in my family and will remain relevant. I bought it with 188,000 miles, it now has 210,000 and has take us camping, trekking, driving across Texas, offroading...my son learned to drive in it offroad...it's a part of us.

Agree with everything above on DIY, you can get through it, ask a friend or two for help..but the: Tires / Shocks struts / Spark plugs, wires , cap and rotor, brakes, alignment, It's all spec'd wear and tear items, those don't define the vehicle itself, it's no surprise those parts are bad...having 3 feet of body cancer eating up the side or floorboards...that's a different story all together, which I just threw in for comparison... Your truck is young, it just needs to be freshened up a bit. If you freshen it up to sell it, A. That's a nice vehicle now that someone else gets to enjoy but they're not going to pay $7 or 8 Grand for it so you can get your repair cost back out of it plus whatever the vehicle is worth to begin with. B. Say that you do spend 2,000 refreshing your truck just for yourself, and not for sale, tell me any other time that you can spend a mere 2Gs on any other vehicle that you found for sale online or in a lot with some weirdo in a sport jacket chasing you around the lot that you have to register, insure and license, all the bs hoops you jump through when you get a new used car, you have to go through it, learn about it, find all the bugs, crack pipes and sticky pennies and issues and then spend MORE money on it to fix the small repairs, tires, minor issues, get it the way you like it...by the time you're done, you've probably spent again what you paid for the vehicle initially. You wouldn't have to go through all that again and you'd know exactly where your truck stands, what it's issues are, you already know it, it's a familiar old friend. If you don't put any money into it, and just decide to stick a fork in it, you will not get your asking price, no one will give you 3 grand for that truck when they know they're going to repair it, they'll offer you half that and you'll let it go for less than 2 grand because you don't think you're going to get any better offers and then you have to sit with the idea that you just released a vehicle with a KBB value of over 4,000 for less than 2. That is a stink that's hard to wash off.

2002 Gen Sentra SE-R / Spec V Why did they move away from this? That really pisses me off...Nissan had a good thing going here and they had to mess with it. I would kill to have one of these in my stable. Even the SE-R non Spec-V model, this was a great looking, well engineered sporty car...

I think for smart, innovative and stylish cars that are actually competing with Japanese automakers, the Ford Focus and Fusion (1st gen both) will be classics, and I also third the GT-R as well. Also the Mazda Miata even though it's built on a 25 year old platform, it was a well designed platform from the ground up, specifically for that car with a well balanced FR design in planning, and is still being built today. That chassis wasn't used on any other vehicle, none of the Volkswagens / Audi's can say that, nor can even the mighty 3000 GT from years back which was built on a Diamante platform. I almost forgot about the two last generations of Corvette. My favorite Vette ever, of all time, with the most beautiful and elegant lines, the Z06..I love love love this car, and the new Stingray. Infact, here lately there's been a very aggressive resurgence of fantastic muscle cars from The Big 3 at a time geo-politically that couldn't be any more diametrically opposed to loud, brash gas guzzling AMERICAN muscle cars. The Chargers, Challengers, Mustangs and Camaros of this current generation are beautiful, extremely powerful and smart with the best fuel economies ever achieved from this class. The Charger has finally kicked the Interceptor Crown Vic off the Police pursuit pedestal. Not to mention the Ford Edge as well. When I started writing this I didn't know it was going to become a soliloquy on how we've got stables and stables full of great cars being made that could all become classics or remain relevant in one way or another at a more strange time in our history with the price of oil and the Left's obsession with making us drive around in bubble cars that no one wants. Apologies for breaking the rules...hard to keep the lid on this one..

Nope, not an Aggie, why? What you got against Aggies? Hell man that's what makes America strong and the guys who'll probably save all our asses, that would be the Agricultural and Military communtity. I'd be proud if my son got accepted to A&M.

Damn...it must have bed bugs or someone died in it or something. Yeah, I'd be really worried about the other shoe to drop.... Great find Sir. I'm (cough) really happy for you. No death wobble? You need to get it to a mechanic you trust and let him check it out.

Sweet! That's great man Count those, stick it in your back pocket or frame it on a shelf because you don't get very many. Identifying a problem, taking corrective action and then enjoying the reward benefits immediately with not a drop of blood spilled...everything worked out and you're on to your next project. That's fantastic.

Maybe its just going through an initial break in period? Might want to try some high pressure white lithium grease at all the stressed / lubri points. I've seen a spray can of it in the podunk little hardware store in my town.

.....wait...just a minute, you're telling me that the short, fat springs are the REAR JGJ springs? And the tall skinny ones (that closely resemble our rear springs) are from the front? I've got a pair of each and I know which ones I'm going to use...obviously, but I thought those tall skinny ones were from the rear as well...and as far as shocks go, I don't think it's too much of a stretch to stay with the normal shocks, I'm certainly going to try. Hey Rambo I don't mean to hijack your thread, not trying to...just think of me posting here as your lift brother and we're in the same boat. I've already taken one swipe at it, I'm like a blind squirrel, eventually I'm gonna find me a nut ....and pretty soon...once I get a chance and a free weekend unburdened with crap, I'm going to finish mine and I'll be able to share my results with you, here in your thread. And I'm not cutting anything off these babies: 264 KG ? Kilograms? What's that about?

I don't really know much about speakers and amps and stuff myself, but I can already tell you now, everyone is going to say it's the factory amps. There is a lot of info in this forum about bypassing the factory amps, and the consensus that your system will sound much better afterwards. It works in your brother's truck but not in yours, that's why. Don't ask me how , I have no clue how to do the bypass but I'm sure that's it, or atleast a large contributing factor anyway. I had a Sony Xplod 52 watt per channel head unit installed in my ride with four RF Prime 5x7s and that system friggin rocks out man, quite often I tell myself, naaa I don't need an amp at all!!! And then there are other times...but my point is I had the head unit professionally installed at Car Toys...I'm assuming they did the bypass and that's why it sounds good even with no after market amp.

Do R50s have one coil that provides voltage to a distributor? If so, I'd like to tell you a little tale about what happened to me in my wd21. The family and I were headed down the freeway one morning, and I was accelerating hard up to about 90 I guess and then all of a sudden the engine died, we coasted to a stop and I began to diagnose: Engine temp fine, engine turns over when I try to start, have got plenty of juice in the battery, and plenty of gas, there's no oil / water / steam pouring out of it...no mechanical failure to be detected anywhere and timing belt was replaced last year, checked all fuses and relays, all in good shape, nothing fried. Got towed to a mechanic near my house, he goes in there and turns the key...engine starts and runs. Apparently the coil had overheated and just quit. It was an MSD blaster. So naturally I pulled it and stuck the oem factory coil back on and that was it. No further problem. Your deal sounds similar, did you ever try to start again after a couple of hours?

I haven't bought one, though I'd like to. What I told you is just my general plan for what I'd like to do to my truck, I wish I had a new exhaust, mine is hanging loose and completely rusted and groaty.. Here, look at this: https://supercoupeperformance.com/partBrowser.aspx?partId=158 I had to go universal because it seems kinda hard to find stuff for that year model pathfinder and also, if you use the year make and model, then you don't get a choice of in/out diameter, so this way you can throw a universal cat in there that has a little larger diameter and will flow a lot more exhaust. I would just really want to avoid a highway drone...that's why I liked how the Thrush Mad hot sounded, here: http://m.thrushexhaust.com/mufflers/thrush-mad-hot-muffler that, right there just does it for me man...I likey..

Well, it's not sexy fun like a lift but I'd have to go with exhaust. I'd put a 2 1/4" high flow cat and Thrush Mad Hot in there, really high flow with hardly any sound. That would improve the driveability of your truck and you would enjoy it again, even without the lift. Anyway, we've got it made, our lifts are dirt cheap.