Slartibartfast

Pretty sure the tbars are the same for the d21 and the wd21. There's a thread on reindexing them. If you look under the car, they're the long rods going from the frame crossmember to the lower front steering arms. I'm sitting dead stock on 31x10.5s, and my bars might have sagged a little, but it doesn't rub at all. Then again, I've got the full-width rims. Do you have junkyards in Hawaii? You might get a set of proper wheels there, or try Craigslist. The tire place was able to mount a 31 to my spare wheel, which I think is the same size as what you've got. I've never had to use it, so I don't know if it would rub. For the cheap lift, from what I've read, you just replace your UCAs (fixes alignment), re-index up the torsion bars, install a panhard drop bracket, and swap out your stock rear springs for springs out of a junked Jeep. Then comes the fun of beefing up your steering!

Didn't touch the steering. IIRC it's a matter of rolling it to the side just enough to get it past the lines and whatnot. Also, it's a PITA!

Nissan owner's manual, page 3-11, 4-wheel drive model: Automatic Transmission model: below 30 mph, less than 40 miles. If speed or distance must necessarily be greater, remove the front and rear propeller shafts beforehand to prevent damage to the transmission. It also says not to tow backward. Auto transmissions have a lot of parts, I imagine it needs a spinning engine to keep everything lubed up. Then again, I don't know why they'd say to pull the front shaft, so long as the hubs are unlocked it shouldn't be moving at all. Then again, it also says to only put tire chains at the back, for some reason.

The deal with the cooler is the trans needs pressure to engage the clutch packs. When the cooler clogs up, there's no pressure, and the clutches don't engage. With a new cooler, you restore pressure and you're good to go. The problem IIRC is if you keep driving it with a partial clog, and the clutches half-engage and grind each other down. Also somebody on here used the stock cooler out of a Ford Exploder, he said it was $5 or something at the junkyard.

+1, that shield over the wires gets in the way. My dad left it off when we did mine (the second time!) and that was a year ago... no problems since. That's my shield. There are four holes where there should be two... first time we replaced the starter we had to re-drill it, because the new starter's mount holes were different. The second time the holes were different again and had to be sort of between where we already had holes.

I think your novelty horn is stuck on. Looks like a pretty solid set of plates.

Holy crap Kyle, think you've got enough backspacing in there! How's it do with the fenders?

When you turn the key, the solenoid pushes the gear out to mesh with the flywheel. At the end of its throw it completes a circuit to the starter motor itself. So, yeah, the starter won't run if the solenoid's not moving. I've heard you can beat on the solenoid and get it moving sometimes, but it's more of a 'get me to the parts store' thing than a fix.

Don't see how the computer would get wet, unless he's got some serious rust issues! Does sound like water got into a plug or sensor... pull apart whatever plugs you can, shoot some WD-40 in there, and see if that helps. Try reading the codes, might tell you which connector to focus on.

Where did the cable break/come loose? Any chance you can snag the end and pull from there? Otherwise you're looking at trying to reach in through the grille or something. IIRC someone else had this happen a few months ago, but I don't remember seeing a resolution. Might help to have a go at the hood release in a truck at the junkyard, just so you can figure out what's supposed to move.

Well, calculated my milage the other day... 14. Not unexpected though, most of that tank was spent in 4x, and I had some fun in the snow.

Sorry, but... why? To make sure the rope's still there?

Nice work TME. Looks like you might need a back up camera soon. Speaking of which, what's that hooked to Kiwipete's rear window hinge?

If you're going to repaint, I'd go black... not much white to tie into on a PF.

Try section PD of the Factory Service Manual: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ That's for the stock setup though, I assume you'd have a few other steps putting in different gears... did you get any info/instructions with the parts? Props for doing it yourself, but do make sure you do it right. The PO (or somebody) of my dad's Triumph botched the mesh of the ring and pinion, and the ring spat off a tooth with enough force to punch a hole in the casing.

Pulled the air conditioner belt off, hoping to kill my 2k rpm squeaky sound... nope. Filled 'er up.

Spare tire aired up, check the lights, and yeah, the general maintenance stuff. Can't hurt to check strut mounts etc for rust.

Can't wait to see! If I can get the $$ together this might be my first meaningful mod.

This was always my worry with the factory spare... that, and the cracks in the side. A close spare is better than the factory spare, but not nearly as good as a full-size. My dad bought me a 31" for the spare wheel... wasn't cheap though.

The antenna was stuck at half-mast when I got mine. The radio worked, but I'm not into leaving well enough alone, so I pulled it out to see if I could fix it. Turned out the long nylon geared thing had busted off. I ended up buying just the antenna part on eBay, brand new, and fitting it to the old motor (which was fine). It was a royal PITA to do but it works, and I don't think it cost me more than $30. Also, nice headers!

^^I've heard the same thing. The R50's front CVs are locked to the front wheels, meaning that even in 2x, you're still spinning the front CVs and diff. Manual hubs allow you to disengage everything. I don't know R50s, but my WD feels like a totally different truck with the hubs locked/unlocked. Apparently this causes trouble with the 'auto' mode on the transfer case, so don't try to use that if the hubs are set open. Apart from that, just basic tune-up stuff. Make sure the sensors/wires/spark plugs are all good. You're never going to hypermile in a Pathy, but if it's tuned up right you should be able to get more than fifteen out of it.

My truck used to smell like gas, especially around the back. My dad found a leaking gas line going between the injector rails, and tightened the clamp, and I haven't smelled gas anywhere around it since. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me, but it's something to check anyway.

Looking at the Factory Service Manual I see a couple of electrical connections to the transfer case. One of these might be faulty, or contacts somewhere could be dirty. That's all I can think of.

When you drive in 4x, the automatic hubs engage. When you put it back to 2x, it disengages at the transfer case, but the hubs are still locked. You have to drive it backwards a bit to unlock the hubs. Not sure how far exactly, it should be on the little card in your driver's sunshade though. More than a couple feet, though. When it snows here, I engage 4x, locking the hubs, and then pop it in and out as needed (the hubs remain locked, I'm just shifting the transfer case). When it melts, I drive it backwards up my driveway in 2x, and the front hubs let go. I actually forgot to disengage the hubs this year, and when I finally did, I noticed that my steering felt lighter and the truck pulled harder. I'd been wondering what was wrong with it! Dunno what it was doing to my milage, but I can't imagine it helped.

My dad's Frontier (06) wore out its rear pads somehow, and was grinding metal against the rear disks... he had to replace the rotors. And the guy at Les Schwab was dead certain that the noise was coming from his front brakes.