Slartibartfast

There seem to be two completely separate wires (from separate contacts) that go to the high beams. If one wire isn't pushing current, either there's a problem with the switch (and you replaced that), or it's the wire... so just tap into the other light's harness for your relay mod.

Mine acted a little funny after I took it apart the first time. Turned out I'd bent up one of the little contacts. I marked mine up when I had the back open on Saturday, looking for a high-beam lead (re-wiring my driving lights). Make sure they're clean, and (more importantly) that they're touching. A little re-bending should get yours working again, assuming all the parts are there. Also make sure the plug is clean and making good contact. Wiggle it and see if the lights flicker.

Is the length of cable really that important? Looking at the FSM, the lines are routed differently between the HB and the Pathy anyway, so you'd have to do some hacking (?) to mount the HB system in its entirety. Why not route the cable through the center console, then connect the line from the HB brake to the stock e-brake line where it comes through the floor? You'd have to cut the cables a bit to splice them anyway... length becomes irrelevant. Right? Or is a Hardbody-style mounting easier than I'm thinking?

Pulled my dash apart to re-wire my driving lights with the high beams... discovered this crowning achievement of the previous owner. Seems I'm not the first noob inside this dash.

And I thought the jy here was redneck for being next to a cow pasture... that's epic. Nice mods, too.

So, morning drive is fine... afternoon drive, it tries to die? How cold is it in Kelso? Mine went a little funny a while back, drove fine cold, but tried to stall once it warmed up... no stutter/miss, just surging (and plunging) idle. We never did figure out what was causing it, messing with the intake made it go away. From what I've heard, I half suspect the coolant temp sensor playing a part in this, maybe a loose wire we nudged back into place. I cleaned the MAF and TPS plugs afterwards, but both looked fine. I thought they just ran worse with the MAF unplugged? Yours dies completely... that would seem to indicate a problem. (Fat lot of help, I know.) This doesn't go with the latest, but, any chance it's electrical? Can't help to rule out fusible links/etc. It wouldn't explain the morning/afternoon thing though...

Yeah, and it feels a lot smoother turning it by hand, but I dunno how that translates to how it acts at speed. It makes less noise than the compressor when I put a screwdriver to it, but that's at idle... either the weather will warm up a bit or I'll get tired of the noise and I'll go in and pull belts and all that.

Drove it to class, found out class was cancelled, drove it home. Wondered what's making it squeak when it's anywhere around 2k, still betting on the air conditioner...

Fuses blow, but I've never heard of a fuse only working sometimes. A blown fuse wouldn't make for an intermittent brake light. There's a dial to control the cluster light brightness, try turning that up. I've bumped it when cleaning stuff and thought I'd killed my lights somehow. How's the socket for the brake light look? If it's corroded or the contacts are buggered it'll have intermittent contact. Use some contact cleaner on it. Also hold the bulb up to a light source and check the filament inside, in case it's broken. Anything can go bad, you just have to push it hard enough. My understanding is that you can pull one from the junkyard and use it, but just because of the PITA factor of tearing apart the dashboard, I'd get a new one that I know isn't going to go out again.

It's a minivan.

Are the crank marks lined up with the arrow? If it's a little off I assume the gears would hit wrong and stop it from dropping in.

Make sure you're referencing the right codes. I don't know where the cutoff is, but I read on here that the codes changed between 87 and 89. First thing I'd do is to check the connections, especially where you were working. Make sure all the spark plug wires are right. Check the wiring to the coolant sensor, or replace the sensor (seems like a common problem). Was it doing anything funny before, or was the light just on? Also keep in mind, the deepest I've gotten into a VG was removing the idler pulley. This ^^ is secondhand.

Point. I do appreciate its simplicity. I guess it does come down to the materials used... and how well the control computer works. Also, I looked it up, and 3/4 of Washington's power is hydro. I'm a few hours drive from several large dams.

The corrosion you're seeing is between the metal and the plastic, and probably isn't hurting much. When I did mine I took it apart further (pulled the switch itself apart) and cleaned the contacts in there. Getting the plate to unsnap is interesting, but once that's out, it's easy enough to get at everything. I used some contact cleaner in mine and bent them around a little bit (too much, actually, and I had to open it back up and fix it again). If it won't go back together/you're not up to it, then yeah, buy a new one.

Could you just do what AK9849cy did (last pic): http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31207&view=findpost&p=596651 ?

If you're junkyard picking a sensor, keep in mind, Pathys were offered with two stock tire sizes, 29s and 31s. I'm pretty sure the sensor is different between them. You can check the info plate in the driver's door jamb to see which you're looking for. Also, the 94 and 95 were the only years of the WD21 with the round dashboard/electronic speedo. Also, before doing the rear diff, check if it's limited slip. If it is, it'll have an orange sticker on the back of the diff that says 'LSD oil only,' and it'll need special fluid. If not, it's the same as the front.

94, do you tighten in a star pattern? My understanding is that the bolts don't seat right otherwise. Glad you caught it before it got ugly!

The nice thing with a mechanical CVT vs a fluid torque converter is that you don't have the high friction losses. I started looking at Constantinesco's design from the 20s, but lately I've been looking more at the Lester, which I don't understand quite as well but doesn't rely on pendulums, which sounds like a step in the right direction. I like the idea of the toroidal setup but can't help wondering how much power it'll pass, and how long until it loses its shine and starts slipping. Around here, energy is from hydroelectric, so it's a little greener. I know a guy with a little electric car, says he spends maybe $400 a year to keep it charged. Of course, it won't top 35, the range is limited, and the batteries only last a few years being deep-cycled like that... the technology's got a long way to go to make it work.

If you're up for a little fab work, you could set them up like the louvers/rudders on a swamp boat (or house window shutters), so that the cable makes them flip open or flip shut. That way they're not filling with snow/rain/leaves when you're not using them.

Never cover rust with putty, it'll just keep eating the metal, and then the putty starts flaking off. Grind off as much rust as you can before going at it. Then... fiberglass? Or, so long as you're looking for redneck fixes, put a NASCAR sticker over it and call it good enough.

It looks good, and it does look like it's fitted for the WD21. Due to the price, I'd be more inclined to try forming some PVC pipe. If you stuff the pipe with sand, and heat it, you can bend and shape it, which might look better than plumbing joints. Not as nice as a legit snorkel, but not four hundred bucks either. There's ebay/Craigslist Australia, right? You might get a better price on there. Gall bladder? Good to hear you're back on your feet.

First thing I'd check is the sliding contact setup for the horn/cruise/etc. Mine sounds a little crunchy from the crap accumulated in there.

Mine developed all kinds of squeals shortly after getting new belts. We tried various things, and it doesn't squeal at startup anymore, though it's got this whine when I rev it that I half suspect is still a slipping belt. IIRC my dad messed with the tension, and I sprayed some belt dressing on it.

Rammed it through the snow berm left by the plow... dunno why people would get their driveways plowed, this is more fun than I've had with it in a while.

I've heard that many 4x4s run a slightly higher ratio in the front to help them track straight... just don't drive on pavement and you're fine.