Slartibartfast

Probably. Normal water has minerals in it which can react with the coolant. I don't know about the drinking water in Taiwan, but here, it's so 'hard' that it makes crusty build-up on sink taps. Not something you want in your engine or your rad! A full flush and new coolant/distilled water probably wouldn't save the radiator, but would be much better for the engine internals.

... so you put it on a jack stand, only one wheel spun easily, and the other one had a really hot brake drum? It may not be your only problem, but I think you've got a sticking brake.

Rebuilt/junkyard picked is probably a whole lot cheaper than new. But, yeah, what's wrong with them? If you can pin down what's wrong, you can buy just the bits you need, install them yourself, and save a whole lot of money. If they're ticking like a sewing machine, that's the lifters... if they're leaking, replace the gaskets... etc.

I doubt you'll find an adapter... not a lot of people make bits for these. If you could mate the engine and trans... rework the frame etc for the axles/shafts... it could work. But it sounds like a lot more work than swapping in a Nissan 5-speed and hacking up a Yota axle. I suppose you could also just put a Toyota engine in it. Then you'd only have the mounts to figure out. At that point, though, you might as well save yourself a whole lot of work and just pick up a Yota!

Looks like the pics aren't working. Dechroming shouldn't be too hard. I've found that Simple Green works pretty well on plastic-chrome coatings, and a scratchy pad should help. Then just jam some newspaper around it, hose the badges flat black, call it good. I personally like chrome... when it's on metal.

Save your 30 cams though, aren't the 33 cams smaller?

I torqued them and called them good, and haven't had any trouble with them since. No locktite, though I did shoot a little WD-40 on the threads so they wouldn't rust in place. I don't remember how close they are... maybe remove all but one, then see if the hinge tries to pivot. If it is bent, you might be able to find a straight carrier in a junkyard. Fixing a bent carrier sounds like a royal pain. Also, I just went out and checked mine. The gap between the rear quarter and the hatch does change, but not by much (maybe a millimeter or two). I'm not sure if it's a little bent, or built a little wrong, or if it's just heavy and forcing the panel to flex. Dunno if this helps any.

If you pull the driver's seat, you'll see the alarm underneath (it's got an antenna). The truck (well, mine anyway) will run with the alarm unplugged. I don't think the alarm has a starter kill to it, so you may be looking at another problem there. Unplug it, see if you still have issues. If nothing else it'll help you track down what the actual problem is. And Lee, yeah, I'd wager that the broken locks are part if not all of your problem.

You would obviously have to move the hinges... probably to the side of the tailgate, with the joint sticking out from the panel gap a little. I suspect they're not well braced on the sides, so you'd have to shore up the inside of the panel and the door jamb to keep the door from sagging/deforming. Then you'd have to hack up the other side for the latch/striker, and re-configure the linkages inside if you wanted the lock to work... only other thing would be re-routing the wiring for the locks/hatch popper/defroster. So, a whole lot of work, just to have it swing out oddly. I'd be inclined to chop it down the middle and hinge it from both sides, like a delivery van. That'd be a whole lot easier to open/close in tight parking spots. Of course, you'd have to cut/reframe the glass... the hinges would probably hold up a lot better, though. Or, you could just throw the tire on the roof and call it close enough.

Upload to Photobucket, paste the IMG code here, and it even resizes for you. If they're not too bad, you may be able to beat them straight again, assuming the frame and body aren't too badly torqued. I'm sure you'd have some trouble lining them up.

Seems like the problem isn't the shim so much as a bent carrier... short of chopping and welding I'm not really sure how you'd fix that. You might try backing out the bolts a little, open it and close it, that might at least show you which hinge is sitting wrong... maybe a little work with the BFH would put it right. Watch out, though, the carrier is one heavy SOB. If the hose isn't working, try an automatic car wash. I remember going through one of those in my mom's old Jeep with worn out window seals... it washed them on the inside too!

Are you set on buying new? Why not just grab a VG33 and trans from a low miles junked r50/Xterra? That trans (if yours is an automatic) is stronger, and of course the engine's a little bigger.

My 95 did seem to pick up a bit with a new (stock spec) exhaust. I'm not sure if that was due to the leaks it used to have or the new cat (mine actually came with two, both of which were probably clogged). It had no CEL before or after. Have you run the codes again? I don't think there's a sensor for a clogged cat. It might be something else coming up because of the cat, or something else entirely.

If the one-way valve somewhere in the tubing leaks, the fluid will drain back out, and you'll have to hold the switch for a bit to re-prime the line. I have to do that on mine sometimes, if I haven't used it in a while.

Sure it's not a blown fuse? Pull the relay out and test the coil. Just hook one side to the battery, touch the other, see if it clicks. If it does, set up a voltmeter on the other pins to make sure it's making/breaking the connection. If there's no click, or it doesn't connect up inside, it's your problem. Past that, I guess it could be a bad switch, or a bad wire somewhere.

You might also try unhooking the battery cable for a few minutes to reset the ECU. That should give it a chance to re-learnt the engine with high-altitude air.

LOL, sounds like something I'd do. Glad you got her working.

In both diagrams, there are two parts labeled 'tie rod assembly.' Each is made of two tie rod ends (TREs) and a sleeve that they both screw into. The Hardbody centerlink doesn't work with the Pathfinder inner tie rod ends, and the Pathfinder knuckles don't meet the Hardbody outers very well, so you have to make a hybrid tie rod (HB inners, Pathy outers). The hangup is that the two have different-sized threaded ends, and so won't fit into the same center sleeve. The solution is to take the smaller sleeve (Pathfinder), enlarge the hole, and re-thread ('tap') it to accept the Hardbody tie rod end. At that point, you just thread the TREs into the modified sleeve, then mount them to the centerlink and knuckle. It appears that you just get the centerlink, Hardbody inner TREs, and Pathfinder outer TREs, then have a machine shop modify the original Pathfinder sleeves. This is, to the best of my knowledge, all you need. Hopefully once somebody gets the full proper system done up, we'll get a nice write-up and some pics. Any updates, guys?

You can test for voltage at the solenoid with a voltmeter, or a bit of wire and a tail light bulb. I doubt it needs banging on if it worked on the bench, but my understanding is that you only bang on it if it's not clicking... means the solenoid's stuck. If it clicks but doesn't crank, the solenoid's firing but it's not making the connection for the starter (or there's not enough power to run the motor). I guess it couldn't hurt to try, but I suspect the problem is a bad connection. If it is getting charge, but not enough (significant drop from the battery), you could try adding a relay to the circuit (so the low current triggers the relay, powering the starter right from the battery). If there's no charge... bad wire? Ignition cylinder? When the starter in my 95 failed, and my uncle put a new one in, it refused to crank the first time I tried the key. The second time, it fired right up. We put it down to greasy connections.

I was thinking you'd narrow the rear end on one side, hook a small bit of the front axle to that side, then cut the other side long/hook a long front section to it, that way you could put the diff wherever you wanted it. I suspect I'm barking mad, and the taper of the tube wouldn't match up properly... And if you want cheap... junkyard? No reason to go with a brand new CL for a temporary application, right?

Less stress to get the Z going, probably. Or you could put a Hardbody CL in the Pathfinder, then get the Z together, then drive the Z while you work on the Pathy.

I know the flares changed between 93 and 95... I'd be very surprised if they didn't change again for the R50. I figure the lines they're made to fit around are different, and the bolts wouldn't line up... can't hurt to try though. If they do fit, I'll be looking for an r50 to pull a rear flare from!

Hey, I appreciate the criticism. I pretty well botched the stock wiring harness (nobody around here knew what a female 9004 was), or I'd try new pics with a wall. I added a disclaimer to my original post. And yeah, just depends on the bend of each contact in the switch. Each filament has its own contact (except for the markers/tail lights). Also, I've had no trouble with my lights since I did this mod.

Assuming both hubs are unlocked/transfer case in 2H, yep, the front shafts shouldn't spin. You can jack it up and spin the front wheels to verify. I'd just wrap a whole lot of duct tape around the existing boot for now, without extra grease. If there's dirt in there now, more grease will just mean more cleanup to get the dirt out when you put the new boot on.