Slartibartfast

IIRC it's sort of tucked into the fluid tank, not sure how the r50 system is configured. Follow the fluid tube from the squirt nozzles. If you find the plug for the pump, you can test with a tail light bulb or something to see if it's getting voltage. If it's getting power, but not turning, it might be salvageable. I pulled a seized pump out of my WD, pulled it apart, cleaned up the bushings, oiled it, and I've been using it since.

Turbines are fast, but I can't imagine them developing the kind of torque to run a compressor or power steering. Seems like minor electrical generation/running the dome light would be about it. But I'd love to see what you come up with.

Not sure how the coil would cause this... seems like it would be spark or no spark, but I could be wrong. Since you don't need to measure vacuum exactly, perhaps you could make a redneck gauge. I'm thinking a one- or two-liter plastic bottle, with a vac line fitting in the end (try the drip line irrigation section at the hardware store), cut the bottom off, stretch a balloon over it. Epoxy a straw or something into the middle of the balloon... then when vacuum is applied, the straw moves. It won't give you numbers, but it should show the fluctuations James is talking about. You changed the TPS, but have you checked the wiring harness?

Is the exhaust sorted out already?

If it's loose, I'm inclined to say there's your problem. Tried vise grips?

I would check the wires to the battery... I saw a car once, when the owner tried to start it, everything went blank inside. Turned out the ground cable to the battery was so loose you could wiggle it. Tightened that up and it cranked, started, all good. When there's just a tiny path for current, it can't pass enough to turn the starter. I dunno what to say about the fuse box. If you narrow it down to there, there is a gargantuan screw-in plug behind it that you might check. Helps to remove the lower dash to access it. Last time I was in my dash I didn't screw it in tight enough, and half my lights weren't coming on.

My first thought is, this is what a turbo does. It uses air flow, but as the air expands it cools... so it's much cooler coming out than it was going in. I'd be interested to see just how much juice you could get from a hot exhaust... and whether that would be worth the additional stuff. Internal combustion does throw away a whole lot of heat... Maybe there's a way to tap into the engine coolant? It's already set up to get up as much heat as possible... of course, the antifreeze would hamper it steaming up, but as anyone who's pulled the rad cap on a hot engine knows... it'll still make steam. If you pulled pressure from it where it leaves the engine, that's probably its hottest point. I'm still skeptical on the whole hydrogen thing... seems like a whole lot of extra stuff to lug around.

I'll bet it'll be nice to hear it fire again. Hope all goes well with the new bits.

If you could get it to the front, is it small enough to fit the drain hole? From what I've heard, the transfer case is a PITA, mostly because it's heavy. Any chance you could fish it out with a wire? Too bad you can't pull it out, turn it over, and shake it until the offending bushing came out!

Are the idler arms the same throughout?

Oh... I get it now. Nevermind.

Parallel, you mean?

Vacuum it out... I found three different kinds of french fries in mine!

BTW, I used my cruise control yesterday and today with no difficulty... so the operation of my pump (and yours) is correct.

Me gusta. Maybe try thinning it a bit for the last coat? That might help with the brush strokes.

15W-40? At this point, if you've got a new engine... might as well. You might even find the problem while you're pulling the old one!

While you probably didn't do it any favors, it's most likely fine. I'd keep an ear out for funny noises, maybe check the diff fluids, but unless it's making snapping crunching godawful noises I'd say don't worry about it.

Vac lines?

Stolen from PoHo...

Sounds like your rear link bushings are shot.

I checked out the oldest one... and opened, like, three tabs XD Very cool to have the archive! I had no idea what this place used to look like. Speaking of what it used to look like... Stop! Rep hammer time.

I would assume that the common hose leads to the washer reservoir. Gotta come from somewhere, right? My WD's pump quit working a while back, but I managed to get it working again, just tore it open and cleaned up/oiled the seized bushings. If yours are truly toasted, you could cut the plugs out of them, solder them to your Tricos, and then plug in the factory harness.

I've never been able to work the forum search feature. I usually just Google my search terms, and then NPORA threads come up.

Also, a body lift doesn't stress your suspension and steering components. A suspension lift will stress your steering system, CVs, joints, etc. But a BL doesn't get your frame, bumpers, etc any higher (except from the bigger tires you put on). It really depends on how you'll use the truck. Some people do both (see UNCC's sig above).

Auto, right? IIRC the TPS on manual trans trucks is different.