Slartibartfast

... nobody?

Ignition signal and EGR? If new sensors don't solve the problem, either there's a problem with the harness or something's wrong with what the sensors monitor. I'd check the plugs first, make sure they're not corroded

Not familiar with the part, but... that's probably seam sealer you're looking at. Doesn't mean it is or isn't welded underneath, but I've never seen it used just as an adhesive. In fact on my WD the seamsealer's one purpose seems to be rust creation... every time I strip some off I find rust under it!

My driver's front hinges are truly wiped... the bushings aren't worn out, but they've somehow frozen to the pins, which have been turning in the mounting plates (that bolt to the body), hogging them out severely. So I went on fleabay and bought a set of hinge plates which came today. Only problem is... both bags say lower hinge. And the invoice says two lower hinges as well. I checked the part number (80422-01G00), and the number seems to check out for every door hinge on the car... which seems odd. That, and the left and right side hinges look different to me (offset bolts). The only difference from the stock parts (that I can see) is that they both have a little barb sticking out like a door stop, right next to the hinge which only one (upper IIRC) has stock. I don't think these are OEM, so that doesn't really concern me (and could easily be solved). Anyone done this? Does this sound right? I'm going to pretty well destroy the existing hardware removing it, so I want to be sure I have the right replacement bits. (I already have new pins and bushings.)

Pics? That thing must be mint!

I imagine you'd grind or drill out the spot welds, then weld the other one in. A collision repair shop could do it but they'd probably want to do the whole repair.

That's a mess. Good to hear you're okay, though. Somewhere out there is a really lucky dog!

LOL, the ad says he didn't bend the frame. It has no frame. But yeah, if you've got a good front end laying around, screamin' deal.

I see them everywhere in varying condition... but I always hear that they run forever. One guy I heard about was tired of his, and left it at the junkyard with the keys and title on the seat. The junkyard guys have been driving it around the yard since.

Did you remove the resonator stuff when you hooked the snorkel to the airbox? They have little drain holes in them (and lousy press-fit connections) which I imagine would let in a whole lot of water.

How's the EGR kill the engine? And I thought the EGR was only operative while cruising/at idle? I can see how scrapping a busted or worn-out EGR would make a difference...

^^ Yep... air doesn't really go through them, they just sort of muffle the whooshing noise I guess... like you breathe more loudly when your sinuses are plugged up. And yeah, there's no way to get to the one in the fender w/o pulling the fender. Unless you're running a snorkel or mounting a cone filter I wouldn't bother with it.

Whenever I'm above 45 mph (and not accelerating or taking a hill) I put it in overdrive. The rest of the time, I leave it off. I read on here somewhere that it helps keep it cooler (?) and it seems to pull a lot harder that way. That said, if your driving habits haven't changed but it's acting differently, that's definitely something to look into. I'd suggest fixing the EGR before trying to diagnose the trans. It sounds like the engine computer does talk to the transmission computer, and if the engine's running like hell, that could lead to the trans malfunctioning. You might be able to fix the EGR without replacing it... I just shot some WD-40 in through the vac connections on mine, blew/sucked the line until it quit squeaking and sticking, and put it back together. Also check the tubing... one short fat connector in mine was dry rotted through in the back, where I couldn't see it. If the fluid's good, and you have reverse, then either the clutch packs are legitimately worn out (I would expect to see the flashing e-at light with this) or the control circuitry is doing dumb things... hopefully it's the circuitry.

Is this with the overdrive on or off? Mine always feels like pushing a cow up hills if I've got the overdrive on. Are you sure it's actually a clutch slipping and not just an open torque converter?

The burning smell is interesting... I wouldn't expect a busted timing belt to do that. Not saying you can rule out the belt, but I'm thinking electrical. You can check the fuses easily enough, but I'd also take a look at the fusible links (little loops of wire coming off the positive battery terminal). If something shorted elsewhere, those might be blown, and I'm sure that would cause problems. Check for spark as well (pull a plug wire, hold it next to the intake while somebody tries to start it, see if you get sparks). If not, you can narrow your search down to the ignition. How low was it on gas when it died? Mine crapped out about a month ago because I ran it low on gas, and it sucked some gunk from the tank into the fuel pump. There was fuel in the system, but it couldn't push it through fast enough. Pulling the pump out and cleaning it solved the problem. It stumbled for a few miles before it died, though... yours sounds more out-of-the-blue. From what I've read, an engine with a busted timing belt sounds different when you try to start it. (There's no compression since the valves aren't opening and closing.) You say it's still trying to start, so that could be a good sign. Also... if you held the starter for too long, there's a chance that the burning smell came from in there. Hopefully something here helps.

Sure water can get in... not like the intake's underneath it, though. Unless it's raining buckets and you've got a cracked distributor cap it should be okay. I've wondered a few times if the stock 'vents' on the front of the hood could be hollowed out, and if they'd do any good that way.

You might look at the plugs used for hobby R/C batteries. I'm sure a Tamiya or similar battery hookup could handle a couple lights.

My dad saw me messing with it and suggested just pulling it up like the boot in his stick-shift Triumph. So we did. Seems to work better. I got the trim boot back in... nice to have this back together after six months! Thanks all.

Not sure on the R50, but on the WD you can get see the cruise cable and the throttle cable separately... maybe have someone look and see which, if either, pulls? If neither, maybe the air valve they control has lost its butterfly? There should be a plug or something around the cruise that he could disconnect, maybe rule it in or out. Or maybe the R50 is set up entirely differently and I'm just making myself look like an asshat.

LOL yeah, first time I drove after removing what was left of the old one, it just about took the hair off my leg! I'll try moving it up an inch, that sounds rational.

Anyone have their hinges fail where it's not just worn out bushings? Turns out mine are... My stock bushings are all but welded to the pins, to the point where even the BFH doesn't do much (and we're worried we'll just break the door trying). That's the problem: it's been turning the pins in the hinge pieces for, well, probably a long time, because they're seriously hogged out. Anyone else had/fixed this problem? I checked my other doors, and each of them is the same way... not loose yet, but every hinge but one has the pin seized to the bushings and is rotating in the plate that bolts to the body. Good to know Nissan thought this design through. Any options besides new hinge plates? Or a new door? Edit: ordered new hinge plates... any ideas for how to fix the other doors before they wallow out?

$26.21 plus shipping. Part number's in the Factory Nissan Parts thread.

Auto. I might be overthinking this one... I've been known to do that.