Slartibartfast

At least it doesn't, though. My dad's Frontier sure did did. Get in on a hot day, turn on the AC, and you'd get a bunch of hot swamp-ass scented air coming out the vents until it cooled off.

My hinges are flogged out, and it opens fine... my guess is that the problem is in the door.

LOL... I'm on the east side of Washington... it's plenty conservative out here. And there are plenty of people out here living out in the middle of nowhere/off the grid. So long as they don't cheat on their taxes, the government doesn't give a crap. I was born in Seattle, and kind of like it there, except there are just too many people. Too much traffic.

The rings behind the dash can be intermittent when dirty, as in they might test good, but when you swing the wheel around they pop in and out. The flashing cruise light shows up in a troubleshooting chart in the FSM on page EL-64, so I'd start there.

First thing you need: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ Download it and save it if you haven't yet, it helps figure out where all the bits are and how to test them. Keep in mind though that it's written for a 95, and your 87 will differ in some ways. Off the top of my head... different t-belt change interval, different intake and injector configuration, different dashboard. It's a good place to start though. Does sound like an idle air control issue to me. Then again the coolant temp sensor can cause all kinds of idle issues. I usually hear about it more with stalling out, though. I'd check the wiring (and check the plug for corrosion) before replacing the sensor. Somebody with a TBI truck can probably be a lot more help than I can.

Or do what my dad did, and spray your face with gas because you didn't do any of that!

Fueled up... 16.9 mpg if my speedo is to be trusted. I wonder if my fuel filter's ever been changed...

LOL no worries... I honestly don't take the end-of-the-world-as-we-know-it stuff seriously, but at least you're putting your money into something that would be of use.

Checked for strut rot? If it's sound, and the guy will give you the repair records (!), I'd go for it... the VG's probably got a lot of life left in it.

Given how flammable all kinds of stuff is in pure oxygen, I'd be a little leery of running it into a hot engine. Plus you'd probably have to re-program the computer or mess with the MAF, or it would be running way lean. And of course you'd be buying oxygen cylinders with your gasoline... I'll bet that'd offset whatever fuel savings you'd get from the system. My dad suggested putting little tires on mine, saying he'd talked to people who said it improved their fuel economy over the 31s. My first thought was, they probably didn't change the speed sensor/speedo gear when they put little tires on, so they're getting bogus numbers. And I'm not into mods that reduce the vehicle's capability. But yeah, bigger engine, less restriction (intake/exhaust), maybe some computer mods, and it'll go quicker and (from what I've heard) do better on gas too.

If you put the transfer case in neutral the the front and rear diff would be locked together (4x4). Also, you'd still be spinning part of the transmission. I think I'd just unbolt the shaft where it meets the axle, push it over against the frame rail or a bracket or something, and strap it in place. Put it in 2H. Then you're good to go. The problem (as I remember reading about it) is that the trans relies on the engine to push the fluid around to lube the bearings and whatnot. With the engine off, the oil isn't flowing, and so any part of the trans (except the transfer case) that's spinning won't stay lubed for long. I flat towed mine once with all four wheels down and the drive shaft attached and had no problems, but that was only about half a mile. The owner's manual suggests putting the rear wheels on a tow dolly, or using a flatbed if possible.

I know (mostly) how it works, it's built like a tank, and at this point I've become somewhat attached to it. Also, holy old post Batman.

Seems like the function of a CAI is less about air temp than it is about restriction. It's not like the air it's sucking past the grille is going to be that much cooler than the air it's pulling out of the fender... just less tubing, fewer transitions, and a better filter. I've read a lot of people saying that a CAI boosted mileage over the stock system, and if they're bothering to check mileage, I doubt they're at WOT. The heated intake probably comes in real handy in negative temps. When it's 104* outside, not so much. So depending on where you live and how cold it gets, a reduction in intake temp could improve power without screwing up the mileage... a system meant to work in a variety of conditions probably isn't optimal for any of them. (And while the heated intake will by design increase air temp, cold air in isn't going to come out as hot as if it was warm already.)

Got my vote just for the unfitting music.

The cylinder compression will still heat up the air anyway. Cutting out a little heat before the air goes in should mean denser air, thus more oxygen, and a cleaner burn. I can see the benefit in the winter (or in Siberia), but otherwise, a little cooler air would probably be a good thing. Aren't there some cone filters you can just wash out and re-oil? And I thought these came stock with the EGR and the BPT? Mine has both. Is it a 94+ thing?

While you've got the belts off, try spinning the pulleys by hand (including the a/c idler) to check for binding etc.

Gotta love intermittent wiring problems! Good to hear you got it going.

That's a lot of miles, but if something was leaking, I'd expect smoke of some kind. Codes?

If the whistling sound from it doesn't drive you nuts!

Yeah, it would have to go in before the MAF, and then it would have to create enough extra power to run the compressor... I doubt it'd be worth it. I've heard that snorkels help in this respect, because they suck colder air from outside the vehicle. That's probably in comparison to a cold air intake kit though, as the stock airbox sucks from the fender. (I can't come up with a reason why you couldn't use a cone filter in line with a snorkel.)

Just to add more fuel to the cost thing... I just had a shop replace most of my front end IFS components (BJs, TREs, centerlink, idler) and it came out to around $800. And that's not including CVs or the strut rod bushings. (Dad had the CVs done when we got it, and I'll be doing the bushings myself.) I don't wheel much (and I haven't learned to weld yet) so an SAS wasn't really an option... and it especially isn't now that we're eight bills into the stock stuff.

Thought about the various things I still need to do to it! I remember reading in the tire review thread that the Yoko Geos weren't terribly grippy. But for that price, why not?

Personally I prefer the look of incandescents... you can get 'warm white' LEDs but I dunno if they're what the car kits use. I can see using them for interior stuff though, the stock dome light is pretty dim.

There's a story there...

Got my hinge plates fresh from Taiwan, and picked the truck up from the alignment shop. New ball joints, CL, idler, and TREs. Feels a little less like trying to steer a puppy.