Slartibartfast

You could swap a Club Cadet riding mower engine in there, and it wouldn't be stock either. And given that you wouldn't have to swap in a new computer, it would probably be simpler, too. I figure, if you're going to put that much work into something, it should be somehow better when it's done. Better mileage, power, something. From what I've heard, the KA's mileage is comparable to the VG, and a built KA puts out about what a stock VG puts out. If you want a challenge... put a VQ up in there!

... yeah, the snap is probably the root of the problem! Maybe it's a ground? Worst case, get the wiring diagram from the FSM and test stuff until you find what's busted off.

Pretty sure it's not wired like that. I've had one or more dead bulbs and the others kept working. In fact the wiring for the high and low beams is all the same at the switch... the running lights, left headlight low, right headlight low, left high, and right high each have their own contacts. Unless this has suddenly failed (doubt it), I'm leaning towards a busted ground wire.

So the high idle lasts longer? That sounds like the coolant temp sensor to me... it thinks it's too cold so it's staying in open loop warm up mode. I haven't heard of one laying black smoke, though. Maybe it thinks it's really really cold!

Or maybe the belt was slipping when you hit it? Wouldn't explain the CEL etc though. But yeah, those things make all kinds of noise!

Take pictures as you go! Makes reassembly a whole lot easier if you know what it's supposed to look like. I usually take a picture of the bolt I pulled out next to the hole I pulled it from, so I know where it goes later.

Maybe the car had some kind of UV coating on the windows? I don't think the problem is the cold air leaking out so much as it is the sunlight getting in. In fact, a little ventilation when parked keeps most cars a lot cooler. When I park in the sun for a short time, say at the grocery store or something, I open the sunroof and hang a fan in the gap. I haven't checked the temp difference with a thermometer, but it seems to cool it down somewhat. Also, 'bad' air? Like exhaust or something? Unless the floors are really far gone, or the rear window's open, that shouldn't be an issue. That said I only use the 'recirculate' setting when I'm going for maximum heat /AC or passing something smelly.

Also if you modify the shift lever, you probably wouldn't have to modify the rubber boot. Trust me, you do not want to drive one of these without that boot in there.

Speaking of R50s... My dad's taking it in to get the trans fluid changed. Is there an internal filter that needs changing (pan drop)? My impression was that it's more of a screen than a filter, but searching around I'm not so sure.

Boxes is right... to be fair it's what sells. The largest part of the market wants fuel economy, truck-like visibility, car-like handling... so they make something the size of a truck, with the limitations of a car, and the styling of a track shoe, and call it a crossover. Just like everybody else.

Is it throwing any codes/check engine light? And do you mean choke like choking and sputtering, or it just won't go past 3k? If the computer is in limp mode, it won't let the engine rev past 3k. A bad MAF (or a bad connection with the MAF, or a broken wire to the MAF) can cause this.

Something something something top dead center. I'm sure it's in the service manual: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ Edit: EM section, page 32.

I'd try Rob (Autorakhil) in the Genuine Nissan Parts thread, he can get just about anything.

Colorado, nice work, looks like it came that way. I found some carpet padding, so I cut a piece of it to fit under my rear seats and replace the spongey stuff I tore out to repair the floors.

Sucks for sure. Pricing for repairs really depends on how good you want to get it... and how bad the mechanical bits got hammered. Good luck putting it back together!

Wow... you guys are sharp. I totally didn't see that. And yeah, he's not much for wheeling... PO was, though, judging by the amount of mud that came out of the wheel wells!

Thanks! I didn't know Nissan was downing in the 00s. How are you seeing the brake fluid? Enhance, McGee! (But yeah, he's planning to do all the fluids etc, and made sure to find a non-rust state car.) Anything else to look out for? Power valve screws?

... and brought back an 03 R50. It's pretty clean, apart from the moss in the seams (Seattle car). The thing that has us wondering, though, is the engine bay. Everything inside is primer grey, and the panels were clearly painted with the hood shut. Is this stock?

At least it doesn't, though. My dad's Frontier sure did did. Get in on a hot day, turn on the AC, and you'd get a bunch of hot swamp-ass scented air coming out the vents until it cooled off.

My hinges are flogged out, and it opens fine... my guess is that the problem is in the door.

LOL... I'm on the east side of Washington... it's plenty conservative out here. And there are plenty of people out here living out in the middle of nowhere/off the grid. So long as they don't cheat on their taxes, the government doesn't give a crap. I was born in Seattle, and kind of like it there, except there are just too many people. Too much traffic.

The rings behind the dash can be intermittent when dirty, as in they might test good, but when you swing the wheel around they pop in and out. The flashing cruise light shows up in a troubleshooting chart in the FSM on page EL-64, so I'd start there.

First thing you need: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ Download it and save it if you haven't yet, it helps figure out where all the bits are and how to test them. Keep in mind though that it's written for a 95, and your 87 will differ in some ways. Off the top of my head... different t-belt change interval, different intake and injector configuration, different dashboard. It's a good place to start though. Does sound like an idle air control issue to me. Then again the coolant temp sensor can cause all kinds of idle issues. I usually hear about it more with stalling out, though. I'd check the wiring (and check the plug for corrosion) before replacing the sensor. Somebody with a TBI truck can probably be a lot more help than I can.

Or do what my dad did, and spray your face with gas because you didn't do any of that!

Fueled up... 16.9 mpg if my speedo is to be trusted. I wonder if my fuel filter's ever been changed...