Slartibartfast

You could have little hinged covers on them. My '59 Triumph has a little cover in the middle of the cowl that flips up when I move a lever. I've thought at least once that having two little cowl flaps on the WD would be pretty sweet... might not even have to turn the fan on. And if you used a throttle cable or something, you might even be able to hook it to the recirc/fresh lever.

Yep... you'd need to re-route the venting. I think the cowl would look pretty good with louvers cut in it. Or you could go the rally car/rice rocket way and put a scoop on the roof.

That's the manual TPS, correct? IIRC the auto has some kind of potentiometer as well.

Dropped it off for a front-end rebuild! Driving it's gonna be sort of surreal after this... I've gotten used to it wandering all over the road.

A guy my dad works with puts a dent in the fender of any vehicle he buys, before he drives it, so that he's not worried about banging it around. A couple hours with a hammer might get most of the bits passably straight. If you're not looking to win beauty contests with it, and it's safe/legal to drive, chances are you'll find other places to spend the money.

Maybe jam the key in there (so it reads the chip) and then hotwire it? Looks easy on the WD21, but I'll bet the R50 has all kinds of nice antitheft stuff to get in your way. I'd suggest a junkyard ignition, but if you can't get out of your driveway, I don't suppose that's really an option.

Yeah, incandescents don't care about polarity. I'd just wire it to ground and the illumination lead going to the cluster.

Took it to an alignment place to see if they can figure out why it wanders. Turns out all four ball joints and the TREs are shot, and the hole in the pitman got all flogged out too. Also discovered that the switch for the tire carrier is worn out... little disconcerting when you're driving and the idiot light is flashing!

LOL wasn't blaming you... but yeah, that explains it! I knew collision parts were jacked up, didn't know they did it by side though... that's crazy. Thanks for the info! Seems like there'd be a bigger aftermarket for them, though, with the increased demand.

Fabricated a ghetto little camera mount so I could get a look at the steering linkage while the car was moving... looking for the source of the sloppy steering.

Of the eight hinges for my doors, only one works properly. The others aren't flogged out yet, but the pins are seized to the bushings same as the driver's door.

Yeah, I saw some r50 hinges when I was looking for these... probably about 2x the cost of doing hinges on a WD. I understand that these were built to a price point, and for a certain life span, but it always seems like the manufacturer's crapping in its own bed with lousy designs and overpriced replacement bits. I love my truck but the company that made it... not so much. And that was even before I saw the Murano convertible!

IT LIVES.

Thanks Rob! Finally found the right parts. Oddly enough, the 80422-01G00 is really easy to find. They're all over ebay, dirt cheap. I only found one seller with an 80402-01G00 (and they didn't know what they had). Even on Factory Nissan Parts, the 80402 is more expensive.

If you tore off the timing belt cover, and hooked it up for a compression check, you could probably turn the cam and crank separately to where they'd be if there was a belt, and check it that way. You might also be able to eyeball it if you pulled the heads, but I'm not sure of that.

I thought my corner light had a dead bulb until I got it apart and found that the contacts were just corroded black.

Turns out the kit was one driver's upper and one passenger's lower. Same hinge. Dunno why the bags are marked driver's lower, they couldn't possibly go there. I asked the seller about it, and apparently they couldn't be bothered, because they're refunding me. Can't complain, just have to find a driver's lower now.

Do your front corner lights come on? They share a contact in the headlight switch with the tail lamps. If the markers don't work either, clean out your headlight switch. If they do, then you can narrow it down a bit.

... nobody?

Ignition signal and EGR? If new sensors don't solve the problem, either there's a problem with the harness or something's wrong with what the sensors monitor. I'd check the plugs first, make sure they're not corroded

Not familiar with the part, but... that's probably seam sealer you're looking at. Doesn't mean it is or isn't welded underneath, but I've never seen it used just as an adhesive. In fact on my WD the seamsealer's one purpose seems to be rust creation... every time I strip some off I find rust under it!

My driver's front hinges are truly wiped... the bushings aren't worn out, but they've somehow frozen to the pins, which have been turning in the mounting plates (that bolt to the body), hogging them out severely. So I went on fleabay and bought a set of hinge plates which came today. Only problem is... both bags say lower hinge. And the invoice says two lower hinges as well. I checked the part number (80422-01G00), and the number seems to check out for every door hinge on the car... which seems odd. That, and the left and right side hinges look different to me (offset bolts). The only difference from the stock parts (that I can see) is that they both have a little barb sticking out like a door stop, right next to the hinge which only one (upper IIRC) has stock. I don't think these are OEM, so that doesn't really concern me (and could easily be solved). Anyone done this? Does this sound right? I'm going to pretty well destroy the existing hardware removing it, so I want to be sure I have the right replacement bits. (I already have new pins and bushings.)

Pics? That thing must be mint!

I imagine you'd grind or drill out the spot welds, then weld the other one in. A collision repair shop could do it but they'd probably want to do the whole repair.

That's a mess. Good to hear you're okay, though. Somewhere out there is a really lucky dog!