BattleAxe

Just a heads up for anyone looking at this thread with a similar problem: My issue was the hose running down from the AB valve. I plugged it off and it fired right up. Reading through the descriptions I didn't think it would cause such a problem but it turns out it must have been letting a bunch of air in past the MAF, which then couldnt make a reading for it to compensate. My hose was cracked and disintegrated completely when I pulled it off, and since I couldnt find something to properly replace it I just plugged the thing off. It works but does increase the chance of backfiring.

Haha yeah... like i said it burns oil like crazy, so I run diesel oil. Way thicker for better protection and it burns alot slower. Like I said, this motor has been super reliable until now, if I could get it going again I know it would get me until Im ready to do a swap, but so far Ive wasted almost two weeks on it where I feel I could have been getting alot more done. It only makes about 75hp, So Id really like to get that fuel injection running good because I know that engine has good compression.

I dont have an ohmeter to check current, so I cant get very far there. I swapped that small harness to the CHTS and it did nothing, then I swapped the ECU and it still acts the exact same way, though when I scan for codes it just reads 44 "ECCS Normal Operation". All grounds are good as far as I can tell. Just kind of an update, Im really getting nowhere with this, and Im almost considering just letting it sit and focusing on a different mode of transportation so I can just do my fuel injection swap. This motor is no good anyway, burns a quart of 15w-40 every few days, no compression/no power, and I have a 150k mile vg30e sitting in a friends shop that i probably could have had in by now if I hadnt been wasting my time with all this little stuff. This motor never gives up on me and has been very reliable depite its condition, but Im done with looking for this tiny little thing thats causing it two sit on the street for weeks. Thank you guys for all of your help, and I will still try little things here and there probably, but Im kind of taking a break from spending all the time and money on it right now.

Ran the codes again. First thing I saw as the Coolant temp sensor so I practically ran to Autozone to get one, replaced it, put everything I tore apart this week back together, and its doing the same exact thing. I closely inspected the wiring harness for the sensor itself, and it looks fine. I even cleaned it. Then I inspected the engine wiring harness all the way back to the ECU itself. No rubs or anything. Checked codes again: 13 and 11. 13 is the temp sensor and 11 is the CAS. It may have been there before, I dont remember if I waited to see all the codes after I saw the 13. Is that a normal code to be stored? I know my 240 had a couple that were always present but not a problem which is apparently normal. I guess whenever I can get a ride to the junkyard Ill be grabbing that small wiring harness and trying that... Because I do still have the code 13 as of now.

What is the significance of the different length of flashes then? The coolant sensor harness looks good, but I have yet to replace the sensor itself. Repalcing the carb involved replacing the MAF as well so I do not believe that is my problem either. It ran just fine before without the air cleaner on, I was even able to make it up and down the street without it or most vacuums hooked up. I think my problem is a bit bigger. I do appreciate the help, Im going to replace the coolant sensor tonight, looks like its gonna be a pain. Thanks again, Im still open to more suggestions until I get this figured out.

Fuel pump is good. I checked for codes, got just the 10, 20, 3, 4, & 5 which look like nothing, but then I unplugged the coolant sensor behind the timing cover and the problem got just SLIGHTLY worse, but same characteristics.

Thanks guys. I figured when i swapped in another carb, I had a good pretty good chance of solving the issue because so many things are built in to it. It would make sense if the MAF wiring was bad though... Ill chack that out now. Its pretty consistent doing just what I said at the end of my first post. For a while there it wouldnt start at all though, until I replaced the carb... So it seems like I have something there. About the O2 sensor, that good to know. I work at the junkyard, so I promptly decided to try a used one for $1.99, rather than pay the parts stores $140.00. I know a MAF will make Nissans run just about like this, I wasnt entirely sure that the TBI ran off of one though, I thought that was just TPS. About the air cleaner, That definitely had me fooled for a while, and I spent a lot of time on it, but I think it was all just coincidence. As far as coolant temp: would that really make it run this poorly?

Well, I can usually figure these things out my self, or with a little research, but right now Im stuck, so I joined this forum. Ive spent some time here before just looking at cool things to do to my pathy, I really do want to fix it up a bit some day. Huge nissan fan, more for the cars though than 4X4, but Id love to get into it. Anyway, 88 Path, 3.0, 4X4. Died on me a few days ago while downshifting, then wouldnt start. After sitting a while/me tearing the air cleaner apart and putting it back together, it started up and drove fine for a while, then died while downshifting again. Kept doing this, "fixing itself" after Id messed with the air cleaner, but getting much worse until not starting at all. So I replaced the carb, and it started to start again, but no idle. Replaced the fuel filter, O2 sensor next, same problem. Heres exactly what its doing now: Starts, but only if pressing the throttle, otherwise it just sputters. Once it does start, it will not stay running unless pushing the throttle 1/4-1/2 way, otherwise it just dies immediately. If I push the throttle to keep it running, it revs way up, but then bogs down and tries to die even though I have not let off the throttle. It will only keep running if I push the pedal more and more. I have revved it up to 6k, but it will die unless I pump the throttle. I have done my best, but am at a loss, and getting sick of working on this issue hours on end every day after work. Huge props and thanks to the guy who helps me out here. I hate being this angry with my BattleAxe