Slartibartfast

I don't think your truck has an LSV. Some WD21 Pathfinders had them (the two wheel drive ones w/o ABS IIRC).

I know the throttle position sensors are different on auto/manual (at least for MPFI, probably TBI too), maybe that's what he was thinking of.

From what I've heard, full new wire from the head unit to the speakers is the best way to go if you don't mind running some wires. Stepping from speaker level to line level back to speaker level always seems a little sketch to me. And buy a soldering iron! Crimp connectors just aren't worth using IMO.

According to the FSM, yours has the factory amps in the back. Mine's got the same setup. I've been running an aftermarket stereo for a couple years now and I haven't gotten around to bypassing the amps, but they've given me no trouble (other than being too loud). The r50 likely uses different parts but I doubt the amps are fried (though the tweeters working alone is interesting). The first thing I'd do is pull the stereo out and make sure your wiring held up. Did you use crimp connectors or did you solder stuff? Crimps or twisted connections could easily have loosened up. Also make sure there isn't any exposed wire shorting to other bits. (Electrical tape likes to unwrap over time, heatshrink is better.) My guess is that the wires from the stereo that power up the amps have come loose. If you've got an aftermarket deck you don't need the amps anymore, so if all your connections look good but the speakers don't work, bypass the amps and see if that gets the speakers going.

Ah, I didn't know that. Sorry for any confusion, I'm used to MPFI.

Check vac lines, clean the MAF, make sure your EGR isn't stuck, maybe try cleaning the intake... those seem like common mileage sucks.

1. I think Stalker did his own with camo fabric. Turned out pretty nice if you're into camo fabric, looked pretty simple do do as well. 2. I've seen lots of interior swaps and a few custom consoles but no full custom interiors. 2.5 I haven't had any trouble with mine but you could always swap a new one in. Look for a 94-95 Pathfinder or 94-97 Hardbody pickup being parted out or in a junkyard... might be worth picking it up or shipping it from a more northern state. Southwest cars will probably have a cracked dash already. 3. Check junkyards or the for sale section on here, seems like the armrests are the first things to go. 4. Nunya's painted much of his dash pink, for reasons known only to him. 5. Talk to Rob (factory nissan parts thread), he can probably hook you up cheaper. Also welcome! We like pics.

Make some new brackets and it might work. I know foundries will cast things for you, so you could make the shape you need from styrofoam and have it cast in steel or aluminum. You'd still have to make an inside plate for it to bolt to, and add the necessary fittings for the striker. And after all that it would still swing out the wrong way if you park on a curb to load/unload! Still beats crawling under it to get your tire, though. The linked one looks pretty good, though $900 for a place to put a tire seems a little steep.

Yeah, the owner's manual has some specs on how far you can flat tow, it's pretty low for the automatics. I assume this is because the trans can't lube itself without the engine running. I guess if it's in 2h and you put it into neutral, the hubs aren't enaged anyway, and the CVs won't cause them to engage?

The FSM should have a full test procedure for what resistance you should get through the sensor. Was the MAF dangling on its own or with the big metal housing bit on it? I can't imagine much harm coming to it if it was still in the housing.

I'm pretty sure the front and rear wheels are still locked together when the transfer is in neutral... might be an issue.

The VG30I looks like carby, but (unless it's modded) it's actually got a single injector in the throttle body. Doesn't sound like that's your issue, though. Check the MAF's plug for corrosion. If that looks good, check out the wires off it and make sure they're in good shape. IIRC there's a ground wire in that harness, make sure it still goes somewhere and that its connection is good. It takes a lot for the MAF to trip the check engine light, so chances are it's disconnected one way or another.

It does look like the vehicle got smacked around at some point, and the metal cracked, and then the crack spread over time. Since it's a small section that's covered by the rear hatch it doesn't have to look perfect, but I wouldn't advise leaving it alone.

I tore off the horn button hoping to remove the wheel and clean the sliders... no such luck, the wheel's really on there. I had a hell of a time getting the horn button back on (the FSM doesn't cover installation). Finally I got frustrated and whacked the bugger with my fist... and it clipped perfectly into place. I guess that's what I get for being subtle with a horn. Also rubbed some turtle wax on the plastic over the gauge cluster and got that looking a lot cleaner/clearer.

My 95 has rear ABS only, I think it's as much as the WD21 offered as far as traction control.

+1, it's not supposed to drive in neutral. The trans is spinning inside but it's not coupled to anything in that case.

I suspect it'd look like your truck got in a fight with a house. PVC can be heat-formed, right? Why not pack a 4" tube with sand, heat it where you want bends, and form it to the truck? I do like the look of new4x4r's exhaust tubing though.

You'll also want to relocate a whole lot of wiring, or you'll end up permanently encasing it in bedliner. If you're going to remove the doors and mud bog it, go for it... not really worth it otherwise IMO. I've got some rubber floor mats that work great, I just shake them out now and then when they get full of dirt.

I greased the bushings that hold the front sway bar to the frame on the off chance that they've been causing the occasional squeak on bumps.

Wouldn't you want to remove the wax? I'm no help though, I wash up with simple green and a rag and do touchups with rust converting primer and 99 cent rattlecan white. It actually works pretty well.

So I go and look under the truck today (unrelated) and there's no oil on the bottom of it. For as long as I've had the thing it's had this slow leak that leaves little droplets of (what I assumed to be) motor oil on the bottom of the crossmember. I guess that was brake fluid this whole time because there's no oil there now!

You might check the vacuum lines going to your brake booster. (I could swear somebody suggested that already but I can't find it now.)

You sure it's the gearbox? My timing belt tensioner made a whining noise at a certain RPM and had my mom thinking the trans was going out. But so long as it's due, change the oil!

Mostly the airbox. Maybe there was a problem with the MAF harness that went away when I messed with it, maybe the accordion tube was sitting wrong and opening a crack... I still dunno what fixed it. It might have cleared up on its own, but my dad insists that messing with the airbox fixed the problem. I cleaned up the TPS and MAF after the fact just in case. I still don't know what caused the problem, only that it started when I left the lights on and drained the battery.

I know mine's got a different engine and all but the heat gauge always goes up to the middle... no matter how cold out it is. It takes a little longer when it's cold out, but by the time I get to school (10-15 minutes, most of it at 45-50 mph) it's up to temp. I do occasionally take longer trips, and it's never overheated on me, so it's not running hot or anything.