Slartibartfast

Cool, thanks! Hopefully I can get the res off without buggering it. (Not a BFH job!) Since I've never done brakes before my uncle's helping me do the bushings and flush the fluid (needed it anyway). He's convinced himself that it's got some sort of 'shuttle' somewhere in the system that preserves one set of brakes if the others fail, which means he'd need a special tool to bleed them. The FSM makes no mention of this, except maybe the load sensing valve, which mine doesn't have anyway. Do we need anything special for the job, or has my uncle just been spending too much time under GM products?

Also check the condition of vac lines, EGR, codes, anything that might be holding it back. I've heard good things about seafoaming the intake but I haven't tried it on mine yet. If you're good with engine internals, you can bore out VG33 to make a VG34. Also, the VG33 engine was offered with a supercharger on Xterras and Frontiers. I don't think it would be straight bolt-on (you'd probably need to swap the computer) but I can't see why it wouldn't work on an R50.

I would try bypassing the immobilizer, just to rule it out. Maybe there's some little crimp connector that's not quite crimped right and it's making intermittent contact. Do you know what part the immobilizer shuts down? I've got a hunch that it's cutting power to the fuel pump.

Stupid question, does anyone know how the res comes off the cylinder? Looks to me like it just wiggles off, but is there a clamp or a clip or something I'm not seeing?

Yeah, that's supposed to light up. I don't think it has its own fuse, so check the bulbs.

Awesome, thanks for the link!

Thanks guys, I checked under it today and found no brake fluid leaks. I checked behind the res and sure enough, fluid and gunk everywhere. Looks like the rearmost seal has crapped out. I checked the exploded view in the FSM and sure enough, looks like there are two rubber seals that the res apparently just presses into. Any ideas on where to get these separately? A rebuild kit looks to cost about as much as a reman MC.

I'd check the wiring to the MAF and the condition of the plug before dumping $90 on a new sensor. If it's corroded or loose it'll return bad info just the same as if the sensor was butchered. While you're at it, check the wiring to your cam shaft sensors, seeing as how that's what the computer thinks is wrong. Corroded or otherwise buggered wiring would explain why the issue doesn't improve with a new sensor, and could explain why it got worse after the mechanic did the plugs (pushing the wires around). Did the mechanic do the plug wires when he did the plugs? If they're old/lousy/arcing to something, they could cause the engine to miss. Again bending them around to change the plugs may have made the problem worse. This would probably throw a code other than the cam shaft sensor though. Also, I dunno how the R50 MAF compares to the WD21, but I cleaned mine (very carefully) with a q-tip and solvent with no issues.

A few weeks ago, my ABS and BRAKE lights came on. I added a little fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder and forgot about it, figuring the pads were wearing or something. Well, the lights came on again today, and sure enough the fluid was low. When topping up the cylinder, I noticed that the plastic reservoir is loose relative to the metal piece under it. When I wiggled the res I could see a little fluid moving around between the plastic and the metal (like when you get water between a glass top and a table). I assume this is my leak. I don't see any drip marks but there is a far amount of black gunk stuck to the metal. (I'll get pics tomorrow when it isn't dark and freezing outside.) Anyone had this happen? Is it a simple O-ring job or am I looking at a whole new MC? (Also, is it safe to drive in this condition? It appears to be a very slow leak in a non-pressurized area, and the idiot lights kick in well before it would run dry, but given that my E-brake is about as effective as trade sanctions, I'd rather be sure.)

Yep, lots of them came with LSD. The orange 'LSD oil only' sticker on the rear axle is known to last longer than the truck itself.

Jack it up, grab the wheel, check it for excessive play (up/down, side to side). I doubt it's an axle (CV) unless it only does this in 4x.

I'd test it on the inside first to make sure it won't lift anything. Maybe some kind of armorall interior detailing thing?

That's yellow!

Pop the sunroof, hang the fan, plug it in. The connector's tapped to constant power at the dome light switch. Only problem is the blade whacking my finger now and then when I go to shut it off. /thread jack

I would imagine it's easier on it because the gearing (engine to wheels) is generally lower in power mode, so the torque convertor doesn't have to work as hard, so the fluid doesn't heat up as much. And yeah, it would probably help on hills too. Nismo, what's this rail shifter of which you speak?

I mean the lights are right up against the lens, and kind of off to one side of it, which just looks odd to me. Plus it's right up against the plastic so you can kind of see each little light when it's on. Proper conversion bulbs go right where the factory one did, this kit's a board that sticks on maybe a half-inch lower. Nothing to write home about and for $5 I can't complain too loud. Top is factory, bottom is with the kit. Nevermind the power plug coming through the lens, that's unrelated... part of my redneck fan setup to keep the inside cool when it's parked in the sun.

I bought a universal kit off Amazon, it has a little spring-loaded bit that plugs in where the bulb used to be and then plugs into a board with 48 surface-mount LEDs on it. I'm not fond of the stark white color (vs the warmer glow of the factory bulbs) but it puts out a whole lot more light. Mounting was pretty easy but there isn't any clearance between the board and the dome light cover, so there's no real diffusion going on. Not the cleanest install.

Mine's got it. And yeah, it just makes it shift later. I use it sometimes but I'm not sure what it does for my gas mileage... maybe I should do an experiment, run a tank with/without and compare mileage. Too many other variables to get a good read on it though.

You might check the wiring on the oxygen sensors, something may have come loose in a week. I assume that'd throw a code, but then the sensor on my 95 was missing a wire and it the CEL never lit.

AFAIK all WDs use the same transfer case and auto hubs, so yes, so long as the hubs are engaged you can shift on the fly.

LOL were the vans that bad?

Maybe clean your intake and check your vac lines/MAF/TPS, maybe it's down on power.

It would probably be easier to find a set of lighted WD mirrors at a junkyard and install those. The mounts should be the same, and the lights/mirrors look to be a little bigger than in the R50 shades. If you need a pic of the WD ones for reference lemme know.

Junkyard probably. Some people fit Xterra roof racks, so look into that, they're supposed to be a lot better than the factory rack. LOL didn't see the other two posts until I hit save... guess you know what the consensus is

The years of neglect don't show, that thing looks very clean. I put an LED dome light in mine... not sure if I like the white light but it sure is brighter than the stock bulb!