Slartibartfast

I can't imagine how the torsion bar would slap anything short of it being well and truly buggered (like snapped in half or bent to hell).

Almost sounds like a heat soak thing... I dunno how cold it is in MN but around here my gauge usually sits right about in the middle once it's warmed up. You might double check the engine temp when it's acting up.

First thing I'd do is disconnect the door chime just to make sure it's not that. I can't imagine it would be, but still. Maybe your AC idler is bad? If it started when you had the work done, maybe something is binding in the distributor? I'm running Hella 500s with no noises so it's not that.

My understanding is that you drill out the stock bushings, then get two-piece poly bushings and press those in by hand.

I've never noticed noise from the vents on mine. In fact this is the first I've heard that they do anything at all, I always figured they were about as useful as the little vents on the hood! I had a whine in a certain RPM range a while back that turned out to be a failing timing belt tensioner. You say it's the same in different gears though so that doesn't sound like the problem. How's the weatherstripping on your sunroof look?

IIRC the diffs are all the same, make sure you get one matched to your rear diff ratio though.

I would also reset the ECU just so that it's not running on old info.

I'd be suspicious of the inhibitor relay. IIRC it's the grey one in front of the wiper fluid bottle. The contacts inside might be getting sketchy.

Topped up the brake fluid, thought about flushing it, and fixed my leaky washer fluid reservoir with some rubber cement on the rubber fittings.

Check the coolant temperature sensor. When it goes bad it causes all kinds of trouble.

Do you have a camcorder? Try mounting it under the truck somewhere, then drive over a bump and see if you can tell what's moving around. I'd bet on a bushing rather than the frame. That said mine makes a crazy knocking/rattling noise when I go over bumps, and it's because my tire carrier bushings are shot. Slam your tire carrier shut (or have someone else do it while you're inside the truck) and see if it makes the same noise.

Yeah, I doubt the OBD1 computer would know what to do with the VQ. VGs have a single coil and a distributor. VQs have coil packs. VGs have cable throttles, VQs are drive-by-wire. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it seems to me like this project will be difficult enough just on the mechanical end. Unless you have leet hax, probably best to get an aftermarket system or adapt the factory stuff.

It shows both as 27.5mm and then has one inch different in standard. I'm leaning towards typo... then again the part # is different for some reason.

Nice work! I love redneck fixes. I lol'd at the grille, it actually looks pretty good.

If you have an auto trans car and a manual trans car, I see no reason you couldn't interchange parts between them. Your manual trans truck probably has mounting points for auto trans components, and you could pull the wiring from the donor car. I'm not saying it would be an afternoon project with a beer break in the middle but it should be doable. That said, oil consumption is a common issue on the VQ, something about the design of the PCV valve (or so I've read). They get scummy inside and start sucking oil. IIRC some people put a moisture trap sort of thing in with the PCV to catch the oil that gets through. They can be replaced (might not be an option for you) or cleaned out with solvents, and I see no reason why a better-designed PCV couldn't be integrated (for a whole lot less than buying a donor, which would likely have similar issues anyway). If the donors you're looking at have automatics and climate control, there's a good chance they'd have an auto transfer case as well (which I'm assuming yours doesn't). Again it could be swapped, or you could see if there's anything else in your area that Nissan used the same case on. The WD21s use the same (as far as I know, don't take my word for it) TX-10 manual transfer case as the R50s, so if you can find a wrecked WD (or a transfer case rebuild kit for one) you could probably use that.

IIRC a guy on another forum gave it a go on a WD? I don't remember seeing the project finished, and I can't seem to find it again. I think it's referred to here: http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=451079&an=0&page=17

From the measurements on Swayaway's site it looks like only the 2wd hardbody has the shorter torsion bars. I think a few people on here run Energy Suspension bits with no problems. I've never heard of AutoExtra though.

Manual or auto? If auto, when was the fluid last changed? This sounds more like a transmission thing than an engine thing to me. Other than that, plugs/wires/MAF clean are probably about due anyway. And welcome to the forum!

Does it do this with overdrive on/off?

<p>Testing:</p> <p> </p> <p></p> <p> </p> <p>I'm getting the same error, but it posts through he full editor.</p> ... also it seems to have added Ps everywhere when I edited a pic in.

So you're running ether mixed with premium? Even if the mileage is as good as you say, I can't imagine that being cheaper than regular fuel.

The lock timer is behind the driver's side panel in the cargo area. It's a little grey box and it should even be labeled 'lock timer.' Huh... my lock seems fine mechanically, but I'll have to check out this little tab. Could be worse, a friend of mine drives an Astro with a busted driver's door handle... he crawls in from the passenger side every time he gets in!

IIRC a VLSD would be more or less worthless for trail use, because they don't really kick in except at high speeds.

You might pull it out and check for bad solder joints on the back. $1k to get it replaced is insane. I'm sure a junkyard would sell you one for much less than that.

Sounds like the Cedric engine is a VG30. It would drop right in (once you put your old intake/accessories on it). But for just a little more work you could have a little more displacement with the VG33. I usually figure, if you're putting that much time in, don't just fix it, make it better. But either way would leave you with a functioning truck, assuming both engine swap candidates are in good shape. And if you're having a mechanic do the work, sticking with the VG30 would probably be cheaper.