Slartibartfast

Seems like it would be the best of both worlds, a butt toaster and a seat that doesn't suck the heat out of you anyway. Come to think of it you might not end up using the heaters very often. I've got cloth seats and I've never felt the need for heaters, though they were nice to have in my mom's Passat (leather seats).

So that makes the 720s QX1s?

Is that where the bleeder should be? Do these go AWOL often? Looks like I'll have a spare MC, since the part's already on its way.

Yeah, mine's by the e-brake, I just never want to go for it while driving for fear I'll hit the hatch popper instead

Good news and bad news... the bushings went in pretty easily, but when I pumped the brakes to test them, fluid came bubbling out of a threaded hole in the side of the master cylinder. My uncle's ordered a new master and we're going to install it tomorrow. I had no idea the fluid was coming out there. Come to think of it I have no idea why there's a hole there.

Plus according to Mr. 510's VG34 build thread, the VG33ER (VG33 built for supercharging) came with smooth-face ceramic-coated valves, while the standard valves have no coating and a stamped logo. I dunno if these are really necessary to run a supercharger but still, probably better to go for the whole package... and sell your stock VG33 to somebody with a WD21!

Cleaner than mine!

Ah, mine didn't come with a hatch striker so I didn't know. (Out of curiosity, where are those located? I assumed I'd find a blanking plate somewhere but I haven't.)

If the missing rubber means the switch isn't getting pushed in all the way, yeah, that'll keep the lights on. New rubber or some kind of shim should sort the problem. (Or just unplug the switch, but then those doors will no longer trigger the light.)

Sounds like it's got usual higher idle when cold, then it drops like it's supposed to (but goes too far). Mine had trouble with this a while back dropping too low and choking out at stoplights. Never did figure it out, but messing around with the TPS/MAF/airbox seemed to sort it out. Hasn't happened in about a year.

Could be worse, he could be going through girls at this rate He considered taking back an old girlfriend but she had issues... so he went for an older lady instead.

Is it possible for the computer to be stuck in open loop even with the engine warmed up? I know my VG30 has two sensors for the coolant (on the metal bit that hooks to the upper rad hose, forgot its proper name), and my understanding is that one is for the computer, the other for the gauge. I couldn't back this up with the FSM though so I could very well be wrong, and even if I'm right, the VG33 could very well be different. If I'm right though, maybe fixinto's on the right track and the computer's keeping it in warm-up mode.

Can't be that hard to swap a harness? Or to rig a multimeter to one and test for bad connections? Not saying it'd be a five minute job but it should be doable. I was thinking ECU too but if it kicks back on from shaking the harness... ECU's got nothing to do with that.

Sounds like maybe the idle air control valve is stuck shut.

I know there's a part (in fact I've considered using a junkyard hazard light switch in its place), I just hadn't considered putting the factory switch up there.

Great idea putting the fog light switch in the blank spot! I might just copy that one.

The VQ is the 3.5l V6 used in the later R50s.

Bad wire, bad ground? The guy said he got it going briefly by wiggling wires, which tells me that the problem is (hopefully) in a plug that can be cleaned up. Worst case, snag an injector harness from the junkyard and swap that in. Seems like you're running a halfway house for Pathfinders.

Or look underneath for a silver thing up against one of the frame rails with brake lines coming from it. (Or look for the computer, should be under the driver's seat with the alarm IIRC). I'm pretty sure all 4x4 Pathfinders have rear ABS. I've never had mine kick in either.

The trouble with LEDs is that they tend to have a fairly small viewing angle (as opposed to the stock bulbs which throw light everywhere). Viewing angle depends on the specs of the kit and the specs of the LED so I imagine it varies quite a bit. I took apart an iPod Nano a while back and found a sheet of textured clear plastic on the backlight to scatter/even out the light. Maybe try putting some gift wrap tape or tissue paper or something over the light to scatter it a little?

My dad's VQ burns a bit of oil. From what I've read the problem is a dirty PCV sucking oil into the intake. One thing I'll say for it though, it accelerates a lot quicker than mine!

Thanks guys!

^^ Clutch blanking plate. I routed the turn-on wire for my driving lights through there.

Yikes, good to hear you made it out alright! Sounds like a hill to avoid until you've got the new hoses on.