Slartibartfast

I wouldn't say the strut rod bearing cup thing was a hard weld but then I didn't do the actual welding. It didn't take my uncle long at all though, in fact I think it took longer to remove the bolts from the rods. Mine had a bit of the same under-floor rust. We found one in a junkyard and bought a section of the floor from it, then welded it in. With a little grinding and some spray paint you can barely tell there was a problem. Nice score with the teardown parts!

I got rid of a little squeak in mine by greasing the bushings where the front sway meets the frame. There's one bolt on either side (after you've got the skid plate out of the way) and then a rubber bit, and I just rubbed some general purpose grease in there. It didn't squeak much but it doesn't squeak at all now. If it only happens while turning, that does sound like it's the diff. The proper additive should take care of it but I imagine it'll lunch the LSD clutches if it goes too long without the right lubrication.

Aqui esta: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33748-harbingers-automatic-to-manual-transmission-swap/ I managed to 'revive' my old idler pulley by cleaning out/repacking the bearing. Then again if you've got one lying around and/or aren't a cheap SOB you can get a new one and save yourself an afternoon.

Holy scheit, that makes me feel much better about my frame!

Should've asked him where he bought tires for his tractor and had another go.

If you can wade through the wiring diagrams, the Factory Service Manual should have you covered. I had a link to it on NicoClub but they've done some kind of facelift on their site and now I can't find it. Or, find a similar rig in a scrap yard, find the offending harness, and figure out what's supposed to be where... or just buy the intact harness out of it.

I'd give the wiring harness for that sensor a good look before swapping the sensor. Mud/sticks/etc could've knocked something loose or busted a wire.

Burnout on gravel? I've punched mine in corners but I've never gotten a chirp out of it. The only way I've heard of the LSD sticker coming off involve a wire wheel. And yeah, locker or not really depends on what you do with it.

/crickets I gave it a whack with some enviro-tex. I won't know if I mixed it right until it hardens, but hopefully I did it right. I've got the wires for the 93 switch all done up and the wires for the fogs pulled. Thanks to the headlight relay mod, I've got unused contacts in the headlight harness, so I'll use those as my high/low beam feeds. I'll solder the lot tomorrow except for the one hazard plug I still need to find (gotta check the other yard on Monday). Funny how there are so many sharp things to catch your hand on behind the dash.

If the emergency brake light (square dash has those, right?) is on as well, check your brake fluid. I found out mine was low from those two lights kicking on.

Can't wait to see the build thread.

Should bolt right up. If it's the auto it might have some trouble handling the additional power though.

Great to see two flogged out Pathies getting a new lease on life, but usually when I see two sisters with tails I suspect inbreeding.

If you don't live near a Ratshack and don't want to wait for shipping, try a hobby shop. Ask if they've got 'grain of wheat' style 12v bulbs and see if they're close enough.

I got a few things done tonight, including swapping out all the dead light bulbs for the ones I scrapped out of the factory radio. The hazard switch I got from the junkyard had a busted hinge, so I rebuilt the one side with superglue, baking soda, an itunes card, and a plug post out of a TV. The switch moves smoothly and the repair won't show. I had hoped that the stock switches would give up their labels with a little sanding... nope. The red and white are actually cast into the surrounding piece. Oh well, this'll look cooler anyway. I figure I'll take the one I haven't cut yet and use it to make a plaster mold with the proper shape. Then I can use the mold to cast some kind of resin into the bit I cut out, letter it, tint the back, and call it a thing. Anyone have a favorite casting resin?

I pulled out my multimeter and figured the pinout of the switches. The 93 switch uses the same color coding (which is a relief) so wiring should be pretty simple. My next task is modding the dash hazards so they don't look so... hazardous.

Spring is finally here, and with it comes a weird compulsion to do things to my Pathfinder. My current goal is a better setup for my fogs and driving lights. Groping around for a little fog light switch at highway speed always struck me as a bad idea, and the Ratshack toggles I had the driving lights on just looked cheap. I saw a post recently where someone had put their factory fog switch in place of the blanking plate next to the hazard lights, which looked like a much better setup, and got me thinking. Braden hooked me up with a round-dash hazard switch which I'll put in in place of the blanking plate. One switch will control the fogs (switched by the low beams), and the other will control the driving lights (switched from the high beams). I pulled a rocker-style hazard switch from a junked '93 for the console to actually run the hazard lights. I do plan to mod the faces of the pushbuttons a bit, hopefully keeping a stock look but losing the 'why do you have three hazard switches' thing. Unrelated, if anyone's considering a solid axle swap, the yard I went to had a few old Wagoneers laying around with their front axles still under them. It's a bit of a drive for most of you but if you're after one, it's a pretty cheap yard, and turnover is really slow. Let me know if you're interested and I can get more info. (Seriously, give me an excuse to hang out at the junkyard!)

I'm pretty sure the black pipe is actually ABS, I'm not sure if it bends the same as PVC. I found an Instructable on bending PVC, probably the same idea as the vid but here it is anyway. http://www.instructables.com/id/Bend-PVC-Pipe/ You might also consider using marbles or a rolled up towel or something if the sand isn't cutting it. Getting them out will be more interesting but I suspect (especially for large-gauge pipe) that these would prevent kinking better than the sand. I've thought for a while that this would be a fun project but then I've never driven through more than a few inches of water. Good luck and post pics!

Try checking your codes, apparently it can have a code but not trip a CEL. From there (unless it points you somewhere specific) I'd check the connections for your sensors in case one of the plugs is corroded or a ground wire is getting iffy. As Precise1 said there are a few things it could be. Good luck, I know from experience it's no fun driving an auto with two feet!

That's how I always do it. The only way I can imagine jacking a Pathfinder from the diff would be a problem is if you were on the side of a hill trying to jack it up and the rear end tried to slide around (since there's no parking brake for the front wheels). If you were crazy enough to try it with a bottle jack, the bottle jack could tip over. Stick to level ground, use a floor jack, chock the front wheels, and drop it on jack stands before you mess with it. I'm not sure what kind of BMW you had but was it solid axle in the back or independent? I can see how jacking up an IRS car would be a problem, since the diff's suspended by bushings that might not be designed to hold the car's weight. Pathfinders (except the new minivan ones) are solid axle, so unless you've got a seriously gimpy axle (apparently some Heaps have aluminum diff housings), it should be fine. I did a quick Google search and found a lot of people saying 'I heard someone say it's bad' but all of them did it anyway, and I couldn't find any horror stories. Oddly enough, I did find a pic showing the diff in a Bimmer as a jack point. I wouldn't take it as a professional opinion though given that the car in question is on its side in someone's yard.

Capacitor actually, 4.7 microfarad according to a post on Nicoclub. Caps block DC current but let AC through, so a small cap in line with the tweeter wiring blocks bass frequencies but lets treble through.

Stupid suggestion... is the overdrive off? If it's trying to do 70+ in third I imagine the revs will be pretty high.

Same place mine was leaking... I think it's part of how they're made, but it's supposed to be sealed up. My new one doesn't have that hole.

IIRC the r50 LSD is wimpier than the WD21 LSD. I think it was My1Path who rebuilt his and figured out what combo of clutches worked best.