Slartibartfast

If you're in a pinch, just superglue it back together and sprinkle baking soda into the glue as it dries. I fixed a trim piece on my dad's Audi that way and it's held up for years. Just glue it from the outside so it can't drop anything into the engine. Epoxy and paper towels make a good reinforced adhesive too. Ghetto yes but it'll get you to the parts store to get the proper one.

Threw a new fire extinguisher in the back... never know when that might come in handy.

Not working for me, either. A lot of pics got lost in the forum transfer.

I just checked the slide in mine (you mean the temp control, right?) and mine makes very little noise, just a slight bump if I run it into the 'hot' side.

My dad and uncle had a hell of a time getting the shield off of mine. Don't worry if you bugger it, mine has been sitting on my desk for almost two years now and I've had no trouble from the starter. Sorry, no idea on the reman Pepboys, but I had some trouble with a Carquest starter (it was probably a reman but I didn't know to ask). After a few starts it started making horrible noises on disengagement. We took a look at it when we pulled it out and there was a random bit of metal jammed in behind the starter gear. Its replacement (same thing) has worked fine since. I'd say give yours a good look over and keep the receipt just in case.

Yeah, I thought it looked a little funny and googled it, turned out it was out of a GM, and was the result of mixing different types of antifreeze. I'm not sure why I thought it was a trans cooler. Sorry about any confusion. You're right, a straight-up clog would completely disable the trans. My understanding is that the cooler only partially clogs, resulting in reduced line pressure and incomplete clutch engagement, leading to accelerated wear. Then by the time somebody thinks to test the cooler, the clutches are buggered and the cooler's properly mucked up. (Plus they probably don't check for flow with ATF at full line pressure.) Of course, the trans is probably on its way out anyway if there's enough clutch material in the fluid to bugger the cooler. Either way I'm happy my trans cooler/radiator got replaced with the timing belt.

I turn to whoever is in the passenger's seat and say "hold this."

Wikipedia says that the TD27 was put in Terranos/Navaras/FGD02A32Q forklift, but goes into no further detail. I would suspect that the major internals are the same between them, but wouldn't be surprised if the intake/bracketry/etc was different. But I've never even seen a Nissan diesel, much less torn into one. We don't have a lot of TD owners on here, but maybe one of them will have a better idea of what's involved.

It's quite possible that the design of the cooler changed at some point. I'm pretty sure I've seen pics of the tranny cooler that just shows a little tube. One type may be more prone to clogging than the other, which would explain the wide difference of opinion. (edited, realized the pic I'd posted was of the wrong thing)

I could barely see that they were there. If you hadn't labeled the pics I'd have a hard time telling the difference. And if you wheel hard enough to need them, better to have them than to bash up the rockers for lack of them.

Found it: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/999-cool-easy-auto-tranny-mod/

Looks great! It's amazing how much different a car looks when it's all shiny.

Victory... sort of. My dad beat on it a little more this morning, and finally managed to budge it. Maybe sitting overnight let the PB dig in. We cleaned up the cylinders as well as we could (we couldn't get much of anything in there, because the edge of the door was in the way) and pressed the new bushings in place. Then we realized the the pins wouldn't slide into the bushings once they were pressed in. We decided to pound them through anyway, along with loads of white lithium grease. The top hinge is stiff, but seems to work. The bottom one is so tight that the pin has already stripped out the new plate. Also, the door shuts oddly now. The top hinge (fleabay special) pulls the door too close to the pillar, so when I shut the door it's compressing the seal a lot more than it should. This makes it hard to shut and makes the latch pop when I open it. We figure we'll shim that up when we tear into it again to tack weld the pins to the plates. The good news is that it's back together and I won't be driving to work tomorrow minus a door and fender. But what a piss-poor design.

There's a thread somewhere on here where a guy put a switch inline with his torque converter lockup wire. He was having the same problem you were, and was really happy with his fix. Something about a blue wire. I'll look later and see if I can find it again.

The alarm would be my first thought as well. If that's not it, I think you can rent the compression check tool.

Makes sense that one gear would quickly follow another, if they share a clutch pack. The clutch gets buggered until it can't hold on at the higher ratio, it slips, then the slipping wears it until it won't hold the lower ratio either. I like the model airplane temp gauge. +1 for creative use of parts.

My understanding is that the engine's supposed to have all kinds of grounding straps on it. If you're getting considerable voltage from the engine to the battery ground, check your ground straps first. If the engine and the battery post are electrically connected, there shouldn't be much if any voltage difference between them. Sounds to me like the electricity is having to find another way around (or travel through a corroded ground strap or corrosion around your battery post or something), which accounts for the difference. If your plug wires are shot, they might be arcing to the engine. If the key zapped you while the engine was running, this might be why. I would expect it to go straight to ground, but if ground is compromised, it might somehow make its way to the ignition column. (This is just speculation.) The '95 FSM only shows the parking brake arrangement for axles with disk brakes. On these axles, the parking brake has its own drum brake system mounted behind the rotors on either side. Mine was a little loose, so I adjusted the cable a bit. I haven't pulled the rotors to check the drums, which I suspect are worn. Anyway, my point is, they don't share any lines or cables, and the master cylinder should have no bearing whatsoever on e-brake operation. If yours has drum brakes, I think the e-brake uses the main drums (as per the '89 FSM), but the lines should still have their own cables. I doubt that a blocked brake line on either setup would cause the parking brake to malfunction, but then, adjusting my e-brake cable is the most intensive brake work I've ever done. I looked up the troubleshooting for the ABS in the service manual, and the light is supposed to come on when you turn the ignition switch on. It should turn off a few seconds later. If this is what yours is doing, there's no problem. (This is from page BR-34 of the '95 FSM.) Also, just saying, my 95 has the EGR-BPT and it's never been registered in California. It may have been origin-dependent on some years but I think it was standard on the 95. (Mine also had two catalytic converters, so go figure.)

It came in through New York and then spent a few years in Idaho. Of the eight door hinges, only one of them isn't frozen like this. We've beat on it with the chisel (worked on the upper pin) but not much from the side, I'll give that a go, then pull the rubber off and try heating/quenching. Last resort is cutting the cylinder. We did try vise grips, but there's very little room to get at the pin, and then they just slip off without moving it. (It's very hard steel.) Thanks to all for the input, and I'll post pics of what's left of the pin when it finally gives up. I'm more concerned that the can says 'Product will decompose in contact with flames and red-hot metal to release toxic and corrosive byproducts." That said, if it cracks the pin I'll smile like a monkey. If it won't come out in one piece, it can come out in two!

Lots of questions here, I'll see if I can get a few of them right. The jumpy tach isn't uncommon. Usually it's just loosened up from the circuit board it's mounted to, and it makes an intermittent connection (with resulting craziness). Some people have cleaned and tightened it and had it work again, others end up replacing the cluster. My front pump has gone out twice. Both times I've revived it. Pull it out, pull it apart (unbend the little tabs holding the motor down) carefully so you don't bugger the motor brushes, then clean out the bearings at either end of the motor. They just get fluid in them and lock up. Wouldn't hurt to polish the commutator while you're in there. Put some good thick grease or oil on the bushings when you put it back together and it should start working again. (You should be able to test it with a battery or something outside of the car, but be careful, it'll still spray washer fluid at you, and that stuff tastes awful.) Headlight issues are common due to the design of the control lever. Each headlight filament has its own contact inside, and each contact is expected to handle the full power draw of the bulb. If you pull the lever apart, you can clean the little contacts and re-bend them if necessary. Some of us relay the headlights so that these contacts work longer. There's also the possibility that one of the little headlight wire is bad, but try cleaning the switch first. I'm still fighting with my door locks. You can remove the door lock timer (behind the trim in the driver's side cargo area IIRC) and re-do the solder joints, which supposedly crack and act up in cold weather. I did mine but it didn't solve anything, so I'll try doing the joints on the door lock motors etc next. I suspect that blowing graphite into my driver's side lock (which was jammed with dirt) is behind some of the craziness, so don't do that. My advice is to focus on other stuff for now and get a spare key! The climate control illumination and the blower motor are most likely linked. I assume you've checked your fuses (I think there's one especially for this) so check the FSM to see where power supply and ground for all of that is located. Then look up the 'how to prevent fire/clean blower resistors' thread and clean out back there just in case. The windows often need a little extra lube in the tracks. I think silicone spray is recommended for this. I keep meaning to do it on mine, but haven't gotten around to it. There is no circuit breaker (just fuses) so what you're hearing is a relay. I have no idea about the ABS but it can't hurt to check the brake fluid level. Couldn't hurt to clean that ignition wire prong either. Good luck!

My driver's door hinges are shot, and it was sagging enough that it didn't always close properly. So I bought a full kit (pins, bushings, plates), and finally got around to installing them tonight. Apart from a little fiddling with the wires, the door itself came off pretty easily. Trouble is, the PO of mine never bothered to oil the hinges, and the pins had rusted and stuck themselves into the little cylinders welded to the door (which is why the plates hogged out). The top one came out with a little hammertime, but the bottom one is going nowhere. The plate moves freely but the pin is rock-solid in what're supposed to be bushings. We've heated it, we've beat on it, I even drilled a hole in the cylinder to shoot some PB in there, but it's still sitting there mocking me. I'm afraid if we keep beating on it, we'll bend up the door and then it won't go back on. Anybody got a bright idea?

I know there's an sticker on the bottom of the hood showing hose routing for the VG30E, maybe there's one for the I as well?

You can check the operation of the injectors with a long screwdriver. With the engine running, touch the tip to the injector and hold the handle by your ear. If the injector's working right, you should hear clicking. If it's running okay, maybe check the exhaust system. Mine was leaking like crazy. The pipes themselves rot and the studs that hold the headers on fail and cause more leaks.

Got it at 164k two years or so ago, and it's almost to 167k now. At this rate it'll take another 22 years before it hits 200k.

I've suspected that about some of my friends, too. Maybe it's a dealer install vs factory install thing, like the different sunroofs.

Just read the first post again, something to keep in mind, there's a difference between a brush guard and a deer guard. A brush guard hit with a deer can end up doing more damage to the front end than just the deer would've.