RF600

One thing is these trucks aren't hp beasts to begin with. The computer takes over anyway. Just set it for what is called for and drive.

Why not buy new ones from the dealer? There not that much.

Go poly!

I had torn boots in my rig. I elected to just put shafts in instead. Depending on how long the boot has been torn you might be better off just replacing the shaft?

The tachometer in these are usually not functioning. Mine doesn't work, my brothers does. Mine jumps around sometimes. I can feel it in the throttle pedal so I don't worry about the tach. Check the idle air control valve. There is a controller for it. There is a procedure for checking it in the manual. Could be a faulty injector. I have one in my rig that acts up at times. It sometimes will run bad, most of the time is runs great.

I have switched over to 5w30 synthetic. No issues. If you have any oil leaks, fix them before switching to synthetic.

You can take the door cylinders to a locksmith and have them keyed the same.

Check the tabs inside the dist cap. I have seen some caps that the tabs were not all,the same length. Not being the same length, the rotor won't contact them properly and you will have issues. Nice thing is it won't cost you anything to check.

Monsta liner. They do different colors. UV resistant. Check out their web site.

I used the Hayden relocating kit. I put it next to the fuel filter. It uses the Ford PH8 filter. There is a thread specific to oil filter relocation. Some pics there also.

There is a couple connectors you can use to check all the injectors without pulling anything. There is a 4 pack of connectors next to the upper rad hose. There is a 6 pin and a 8 pin connector. The 8 pin connector is the injectors. The 6 pin connector is used for the common. There is only 1 on the 6 pin that will work. It's one of the outside pins. The 8 pin connector is the injector side. With the clip of the connector up, starting on the second pin from the right will be number 1. The second row, starting on the second pin in is number 3. Use the male ends of the connectors for testing. Hopefully that didn't confuse you a lot. There is a few threads on the boards that address this. One even has pics of the connectors that are used.

Actually removing the exhaust isn't too bad. Unless you have rust to deal with.

I don't understand why different spray patterns exist. An injector has 1 job. Why complicate things by making 3 different ones? Oh yeah, we are engineer's and we can. Well I will use what I can find and report back.

That's what I'm thinking. I doubt there would be a difference in flow rates. Most of the replacements I have seen list the oem number and the replacement number. The replacement numbers are the same for both colors.

My trip to pick and pull was disappointing. I didn't want to pull the intake so I was hoping I could find enough injectors to replace all of them. I have black dots and all I found was blue. I didn't pull any because I couldn't find 6 of them. Either they had really corroded terminals or the ohm test failed. I did find a couple other things I needed though. I'm going to hopefully find a matching one. If not, I guess I will buy a set.

Well it looks like the injector for cylinder 2 is out of spec when I did an OHM reading. I can't tell what color is on the injectors. It's either blue or black. I tried wiping off some dirt with my finger and the colored dot came right off. From what I have found the dot represents flow rate. I just can't seem to find out what the flow rates are. If it comes down to replacing all of the injectors, will it matter if a different color injector replaces the other? I will keep them all the same color.

I checked the codes. 34, 51. The knock sensor is still there. Now I need to find some time to check out my injectors. I would assume the knock sensor is a result of a bad injector(s)?

My first question is have you checked to see the contact points of the bendix to the ring gear? That would be the first place I would look. Even if the starters look the same or are supposedly the same. Start with the easy stuff first.

I bought a clutch kit from nissan. At first I thought something was wrong. The pedal was really light. I felt like I was going to put foot through the floor when I depressed the pedal. After driving it for a while I have adjusted to the lack of pressure. My guess is most clutches, besides racing clutches, are going to be soft depending on who manufacturers it. Maybe it's nothing? If you still feel it is too soft have you tried to reverse bleed it? From the bottom up. I have had to do that on a couple different vehicles before. Worth a shot.

Vacuum lines are good. Today it started and ran really rough. The check engine light came on. The engine light turned off after a couple minutes. I wasn't around my place so I will hope it is stored in the ecu until I can pull the code and see if that will direct me what to look at next.

The O2 is new. So the wiring up to where it plugs into the harness is good. I have not checked the voltage of the O2. I had to put a new O2 in because it failed smog last year. My assumption is the O2 is working properly since it passed easily after installing. I have not checked it though. As far as I know the fuel cap is original. I will look at the vacuum lines around the canister. The vacuum lines around the engine are good. I have inspected and changed out some bad ones.

So I am having a cutting out issue. When it acts up the check engine light does not come on. There doesn't seem to be a specific time when it does it. No specific throttle input. Nothing I can pinpoint to a certain time when it will do it. While driving it will cut out. Usually only for a couple seconds. Then it picks right back up. Even with the cruise control on it will do it. It will do it while driving around town. Sometimes it will die while sitting at a stop light. There is no rough idle, it just idles down and dies. It will start right back up. A couple times it didn't want to run when started. I had to keep my foot on the gas for a bit, then it would idle on its own. A little history on my rig. Within the last 10,000 miles I have done the following, distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, iac valve, iac controller, O2 sensor, coolant temp switch. I did pull 2 codes, 33 and 34. Since it cuts out at random I'm at a loss for where to look. I have not checked the injectors or fuel pressure. Ideas

You can do it by sliding the trans/xfer case back. The 2 are very heavy. Tranny jack would help a lot.

I would go with fuel injection, not carbed. Drop a LS engine in there. Should get decent mileage.

I'm not telling you to use the rubber you have. The 1/16" longer shouldn't matter. There should be plenty of threads in the strut rod to compensate for the extra length. Honestly, I would buy poly bushings for that spot. They see a lot of road grime and get worked really hard. The poly shouldn't wear out. It shouldn't let the wheel move around much, if at all.