RF600

Ok, that guy is annoying. I couldn't watch the whole thing. No need for any epoxy on the gasket. It will stay in the valve cover. While you are there replace the rubber bolt grommets also.

Check the center link. It might be worn. Possibly tension rod bushings?

Timing belts on these are easy. Tension rod bushings may need to be changed. Get poly bushings. Remote oil filter mounting. Makes life easier and it will keep your starter happy.

BTW this is not on my pathfinder.

://s118.photobucket.com/user/rf600/media/20160304_172941_zps7vdbtepa.jpg.html][/url] This was caused by a plugged oiling port. Right cam is frozen in the head. Couldn't budge it with a chisel and hammer. Please change your oil on a regular basis. This could have been prevented.

Thanks.

Spark plugs; Chevrolet-Delco Ford-Champion Nissan and most imports-NGK I think you see where I'm going with this. A lot of things we do for our vehicles do nothing more than have a placebo effect. Some people swear by a KnN air filter. Some people actually think that their fancy cold air intake, that sits in a hot engine compartment and not blocked off from the engine heat, actually helps.

Bleed the clutch again. Did you check the hose? Maybe there is a problem with it leaking. Are you actually losing fluid? Clean everything off with brakekleen or something like that. Pump the clutch a few times and see if there are any leaks.

Seriously the brackets are useless.

Taptalk is not your friend

There are a lot of threads on this same issue. Use the search. There are many possible issues causing this. Maf, idle air control valve, vaccuum leak. Download the factory service manual. It will have testing procedures for checking the possible things causing the problems. Depending on mileage, over 100k, my first guess would be idle air control valve.

Putting fancier plugs in only makes your wallet thinner. Doesn't help with performance. I stick with what the factory installed.

Look around online. I don't recall what I paid for my warn hubs, I think it was under $200.

If I remember correctly, number one is about the 10 o'clock position. That is when you are facing the distributor.

From what I have read on the boards here, the fluid needs to be GL4. Anything else will harm the soft synchronizer rings in the transmission. Even though GL5 can be used in place of GL4, forum members say not to do it.

It all depends on condition. I paid $1300 for my 95 4x4 about 5 years ago. I haven't paid attention to prices lately. The resale on the pathfinder doesn't seem to be as high as other 4x4's. Which is sad because the other 4x4 I speak of pops head gaskets and they are higher priced. Higher than what I would pay. I know that's not much help. Figure out what the weather is like where you are moving, decide what vehicle you need, and go from there.

Check the idle air control valve

That depends on your listening preferences.

This ^. I ran all new wires when I did my stereo install. I didn't run the front speaker wire through the existing loom. I ran new wires and poked through the grommets. Zip tied to the existing loom.

When doing the body lift, make sure to remove the upper radiator hose, where the upper hose connects to the radiator, it could crack. You may also have to rotate it some so the angle doesn't stress the plastic.

If I understand correctly, you set the timing mark at 12 on the balancer, then stabbed the distributor? If so set it balancer at 0 then stab the distributor. Then time it.

Take the wheels off. Sit the vehicle as low to the ground as you can. That will help when using a floor jack. Use some long boards to put against the body to distribute the load. Be prepared for the body to shift some. Like B said, You may need a come along or another vehicle to help shift the body.

Don't silicone the hole on the starter. That is a drain. If you plug it and take on water, well you should be able to figure out the rest. Honestly I didn't read the whole thing. It's really difficult to read without paragraphs. Just trying to help.

I assume the cylinder is not working? If so take the cylinder out and attempt to clean it. If it is frozen you will have to get a new one and have it keyed to your current key. Until then crawl through the passenger side.

Is there a reason you want 33's? 31's fit nicely and don't require upper control arms when going with a 3" suspension lift. I have a 2" suspension lift with a 2" body lift. Aftermarket wheels and 31" tires. No rubbing. No messing with the speedometer. I'm not trying to convince you to do something different. Just an example.