96Pathfinder4x4

35s after SFD? I thought that 33s were the max for Pathys due to the CV joints???

I forgot to mention that the truck has no performance issues. It has a slight bounce in rpms at idle.

It's not the cat. I have no codes and no vacuum TO the EGR valve. A friend told me how to test the solenoid. The solenoid is good. I got the truck up to operating temp and the temp sensor won't come down past .5 M Ohms. I think the temp sensor reads back to the ECU, but I'm not 100% sure.

Regards to the temp sensor and EGR-vacuum solenoid. Do they work independently of one another or if the temp sensor is bad, will it receive power to the vacuum solenoid???

Warmed up. While revving the engine: No vacuum into EGR, no vacuum into EGRC-BPT. Good vacuum into EGR solenoid. As per the manual, I turned the car off, waited a few seconds, then disconnected and reconnected the solenoid connector. No clicking or any noise whatsoever, so I'm considering it bad. Heading down to Autozone to see about a new one.

No problem with sway. I've had the sway bar dangling back there. Funny...it *dings* at every bump. I'm just going to toss it. No problems recently...except for failing smog.

Was there a solution? I haven't noticed any issues since my installation....

Going to check the rest of the sytem out tonight. Found this Autozone repair guide while learning what the EGRC-BPT system does. (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control - Backpressure Transducer) http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152800762d1

I picked up some 55W Offroad Halogens from Walmart for $20. I mounted them to the bumper. I plan to use one of the factory foglights as a back-up light.

It wasn't that thick...I remember because I was actually a bit surprised when I poured it in. I sure hope so. If it does leak again, I'll give 'er another $8 gamble.

I think this is what I used. Bar's Main Seal Repair. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bar-s-Rear-main-seal-repair/_/N-260b?itemIdentifier=426114_0_0_

Thanks! Will be checking that out tomorrow.

Rear main???

So to update: After talking to a couple of people that have had success in this area, I bought a bottle from Autozone. Don't remember the brand. It was one of the less expensive ones....about $10. I poured it in and in about 20/30 miles it stopped leaking!!!

15MPH HC MAX: 50 AVE: 7 MEAS: 2 | CO MAX: 0.64 AVE 0.03 MEAS 0.03 | NO MAX: 508 AVE 90 MEAS 898 <---FAIL 25MPH HC MAX: 34 AVE: 6 MEAS: 5 | CO MAX: 0.78 AVE 0.03 MEAS 0.18 | NO MAX: 761 AVE 84 MEAS 235 I have no check engine light, therefore no codes. Searching the internet, it seems my system might be faulty. How do I test it? I'm searching in the pdf manual, but not finding the EGR valve test procedures. Rather not throw $150 at it and not know what the problem is. Thanks to all in advance! and Happy New Year!

It's probably a good idea if you plan to try to rock-crawl or keep up with bigger, stronger rigs. For the most part, I'll have my kiddos in the back seat and will be limiting myself to mild excursions. I don't even feel much sway in the back, so I don't think I'm even going to do the missing link. That might change after my first offroad trip.

...post #1: item 4. I also mentioned that on post #7

There's no strut spacers with the SFD. Just blocks under the frame and engine in front & WJ adapters (cups) for the rear springs.

Looks like the motive unit has a rubber "plug" that goes down into the master cylinder to help it make a tight seal. http://www.motiveproducts.com/CAPS.html

I tried making one myself, but it didn't work out too well....brake fluid EVERYWHERE. I took a stock replacement...well Autozone sells one for a Ford that fits. I used a brass feedthrough and cut the gasket to fit around it. Pumped my Motive up to about 6psi (directions state 10psi) and brake fluid seeped everywhere. It just didn't seal well enough. In the idea of keeping all the info together....a couple of things I learned: 1) for ABS, disconnect the ABS unit or disconnect the battery 2) If you have LSV, you have to bleed it first.

Tell your buddy: In any overheating situation, to pull over. If you can't fix the problem, have it towed. A $200 towing bill is better than a $1100 engine rebuild....anyday.

If you get rid of them, I'll trade you for my side steps. Seriously, though...I'd keep them if I were you. Might be heavy, but you'll appreciate them when you go over something and they slide, rather than crumple metal and grab.

Do you have any codes??? How did the knock sensor come into play here? ....regardless, I don't think a knock sensor would prevent the vehicle from starting. I would think it would stutter if anything. If you are getting spark and the engine is cranking over, then the only thing left is fuel delivery. (and I wouldn't spray brake cleaner into your intake...it will eat your sensors, maf, tps, etc.) Speaking of....tps sensor might restrict the fuel delivery.

"during a stop" defined as when you are braking, but now when your driving? I don't have vibrations... I have a wobble, but I know I need to check the tire balance...just have to find time to drop it off at Discount Tire for an hour.

Lakeside. East County San Diego.