96Pathfinder4x4

I added storage. ...and looks like I got the height just about right.

Sorry for the late reply. ABS light is still on. I have yet to swap the wires to see if they are directional. I've had other projects take my attention away from my Pathy. I'm planning on getting back to it this weekend or next week.

When you check the plugs, check the back one (aka PITA Plug). Mine was running rough....the other 5 were fine...the back one barely had an electrode. After my lift, I kept on the rock sliders (running boards) and am putting on bigger mudflaps.

I've been waiting to pull the trigger on the skid plate set. This isn't "Fluery's" set? Did you go with steel or aluminum? This is where I was referred... http://4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.html

I think the VQ/VG sounds are going to be similar....still going through 2 cats and a V6. VQ is just a tad bigger.

Most locksmiths can do it also. Have to call around. I bought a key on Ebay for my Focus and had a locksmith cut and program it.

I used the OME stiff springs up front and got 2". That's with my big ass bumper.

Definitely. My todo list is getting my CB working and building a storage system similar to yours. PM sent, so we don't hijack this thread.

I would get the front spring lift, but honestly after doing it: Save the time and headache and just get the SFD kit...or make it yourself. I had no problem selling the slightly used 2" rear lift, but I could have saved dough by just going straight to the SFD and front lift.

I have the same running boards and have considered taking them off. My kids are young 4&6. The lift makes it tough for them to get in and out, although I don't drive it much these days...so I'm going to leave them on for now.

Posting because my power one is broke....and needs replacing as well.

Finally got bigger tires! Sorry that they're plastered over a couple of threads, but they are pertinent to those threads as well. Oh! And I ditched the swaybar. No need for it whatsoever.

Great looking sliders! Can you tell me more about the ARB onboard air system? How's it work and how has it worked for you?

I decided to go with 33s. 305/70/R16. The price on CL was right...and since I have to drive 2 hours to get to a good offroading spot... I removed the front splash guards and will have to do some bending/trimming behind the front tires.

IMO, High mileage oil is a scam. Use thicker oil 10/30....add an additive if it makes you feel better....save your money.

To update, after about 600 miles, it was finally ready and PASSED! So, basically my mechanic set the timing back a bit (within specs, of course). Next...bigger tires!

There's always need for more power...

The linkage wasn't $165, was it? It fit perfect, though. My biggest problem now is finding rims and tires. 33s or 35s???

I've put over 300 miles on it and it's still not ready to be smogged. The most recent was 28 miles to work...each way, all freeway. I have no idea....

I plan to take it everywhere I can.... Reg expired last month.

I have. I drove out to the desert last Monday. Stop and go, car on and off, speeds up to 70mph., etc.... On a good note, I learned that my code reader can tell me when it's ready...so I don't waste time getting a ride to the shop.

Update: So far, not fixed. Due to my troubleshooting, I set the MAF sensor code. Apparently after clearing any code that has to do with emissions, you have to wait for the cycle to run. I've put 230 miles on it and it still is not ready for smog.

After putting everything back together, I have the same problem: No vacuum TO the EGR via the EGRC-BPT & Vacuum solenoid. I also have a variation at idle...basically like someone is tapping on the gas pedal. I run injector cleaner every 5-10k. Chevron Techron stuff that comes in a case at Costco. I don't think the diverter would be a problem, unless I was getting vacuum to the EGR. I'm going to suck it up and drop it off at the mechanic tomorrow. At least this way, the problem will be fixed and I will be insured to pass smog.

I stuck a wire up in the tube from the intake. I didn't get anything and the wire didn't get dirty. I've blown through all the hoses & lines. Once everything is back together, I'm going to stick a vacuum gauge on the intake and see how much pressure I'm getting.

I vacuum tested the EGR and the EGRC-BPT. Both test fine, according to the manual test procedures. No daylight work until Wednesday. I'm putting it all back together and replacing a couple of hoses...I'm thinking I have an intake leak somewhere and it's just not enough pressure to get through the EGR tube network.