96Pathfinder4x4

Wondering what the difference from 96 to 98 is, since they don't list a TBS for my 96....?

Looks good! I ran out of time and help or my front would be finished. What size springs did you use for the rear?

Couple more pics. Front diff is back in and struts are hanging from the upper mounts. Bit of undercoating spray on the blocks. They were primered before install.

Hasn't been mentioned.... plugs? I know that back one is a beach to get to....when I replaced all 6 of mine, it looked like the last guy didn't replace the back one. However, I lean toward TPS. Throttle Position Sensor.

Yeah...about that. Passenger side ABS line broke. Autozone wants $160! ....going to see if I can fix it or off to the junkyard. I'm changing the brake lines so I'm not concerned about them...I usually ziptie them up somewhere.

exbrit: Pathy looks good! Is that a stock tire carrier? Did you make the gas can holder?

I know it sounds weird, but I think it's a Pathy thing. I've used Battery Terminal Protector for years, on various makes and models. This is the first car that the battery terminals accumulate deposits after using the spray.

Throttle position sensor? Might try cleaning the throttle body and the sensors before replacing anything. No codes?

I already have the 2" Lift. Used OME springs and KYB struts. The rear shocks and springs are going to up for sale, soon as I get to the rear lift. Stuck on the front now. I can't lift the front diff up by myself and bolt it in, so I'm going to have to wait for help. During the lift: Passenger side: Driver side:

So, I ordered F250 stock KYB gas shocks....figured they would do for now and see how they work out. Received my springs from Iron Rock Offroad on Friday. (best price online and they even called to verify I ordered the right springs, since I listed a Nissan Pathfinder! ) Started today, the write-up I followed wasn't very explicity, so I've learned a few things. When I'm done, I'll try to make a list time to eat dinner now. I have the Front, Rear, and engine blocks on. Trying to get the steering/suspension back up to the blocks on my own is proving difficult....will try again tomorrow. I will post pics tomorrow...I ran out of daylight today.

From the manual: Remove/disconnect: -Crankshaft position sensor (top of trans) -Front and rear exhaust tubes -Fluid charging pipe -oil cooler pipe -Propeller shaft (mark flanges, remove & plug rear of trans <- Going to replace this seal, while I'm in there) -Speedo cable -AT control cable -AT harness connectors -starter -Gusset and rear plate cover (secures engine to trans) -Bolts at torque converter (by turning crankshaft) FINALLY - Support trans and remove rear mount bracket and bolts securing AT to engine

When it rains it pours. Finally got around to pulling the Pathy into the garage to tackle the SFD from Krypton Fabs. While helping my buddy replace his ebrake cable on his Bronco, I look in the garage and see a drip under the Pathy. Thought it might be water drops....not that lucky. As we work on the Bronco, I see the puddle get bigger. I crawl under and see that it's coming from the bell housing. Rear main seal, I'm guessing. From the manual, it looks like I have to remove alot just to lower the trans and get to it...so I'll be tackling that today. Maybe the SFD will put itself on when I'm not looking.

Found my answers....sort of. I was just digging through some threads for fun. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33604-few-pics-of-r50-with-37s/page__st__20

FINALLY!!! The weather is cooling off (below 100*) and I now have room and a commuter car (Ford Focus SVT) to take over road duties. SFD install will be happening SOON!!! I need part numbers, so thought I would post here. What rear shocks are y'all using with the SFD??? I want to go ahead and order springs and shocks.

What part number did you go with? How do you know the correct extended/collapse lengths? As soon as my (new to me) commuter is roadworthy, the Pathy comes apart (finally) for the SFD install!

For the record, it's been almost 2 months and no codes since replacing my O2 sensor, via solder method. Again, from what I've read, it's the newer models that are more sensitive to soldering. Also, I'm sure there are alot of what we call "glob jobs" out there that will certainly increase the resistance in the wire. Disclaimer: This is my experience...if you solder your O2 sensor and it doesn't work...not my fault.

I will 2nd that! Just did them on Saturday. Cut up hand and one MIA plug. Had to trek to Autozone for a 7th plug. I still have a bit of a shudder, but it's better....I think I should have done the plug wires at the same time.

Spent the last few minutes googling the subject....looks like it's the typical two sided debate. I'll touch on my opinion...and what I get of what I read. Some are worried about the solder creating resistance and the solder job due to the nickel coating. aka....the "quality of soldering" that is out there, if you put a glob-job on it, it will create too much resistance. I'm a decent solderer, so I won't sweat that part. (Micro-miniature certified) I don't buy the "breathing" issue, as all the wire does is transmit a voltage to the ECU. I looked at the wires that came off (approximately 24 gauge wire) no way are they breathing anything. Maybe they are referring to newer models? I'm pretty sure that a 96 Pathfinder will be a bit less touchy (voltage-wise) than a 2012 vehicle, but you never know, right? I'll hang on to the bosch crimp bag for a bit....if I notice a problem, I'll cut it out and crimp it. Murphy's law....if I have the bag on my shelf for future use, I'll probably never need it.

Why not solder them??? They are electrical connections....no more resistive load than putting a crimp in the connection path.

Thanks! That's what I was thinking.

I would replace the O2 sensor and clear the codes...see if the crank sensor was a fluke. I bought the universal fit from Autozone and soldered the old connector in place. A bit of heatshrink and some electrical tape for good measure. Saved me $25 + tax. Now I'm getting surging in the engine at idle. I'll drive it a bit and see if I get any more codes. I'm not sure, but I'm wondering if the computer needs to recalibrate???

What code did you get? I'm looking at : P0130. Bank 1 Sensor 1, but also PO300 - Random Misfire, P0325 - Knock sensor 1, bank 1, P0171 System too lean. I think it's all lead from the O2 sensor.... :?

Ran across this today. I thought it might come in handy for someone who didn't have a manual handy. http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/diy-projects/18315-1996-2011-nissan-pathfinder-f-sensor-o2-sensor-location.html

I recently took mine to the shop....(kids weekend = no time) MAF sensor. I was talking to a buddy and he said that they make special cleaner for it. Said not to use Carb cleaner. Should only take a few minutes to pull and clean. worth a try.

My ad in the classifieds for the rear springs and shocks has a link where I ordered them and the front springs. I ordered the KYB struts from Amazon w/ free supersaver shipping. I haven't ordered the rear springs/shocks yet. Going to wait to see how much the front lifts me.