NissanNismoZ

Done! My results are: Maf idle = 1.58v Maf 3k rpm = 2.55v stable MAF reference = 13.88v (shouldnt that only be 5v??)

Removing the part of the exhaust that kept banging on the muffler fixed my knock sensor code...

Okay..now that i've gotten a few of my exterior (easier) things fixed, im back to tracking these down. How do i count these at the plug? I added a new ground to my MAF sensor and..somehow that screwed up my security system.. Thanks! I just dont get how, on long trips (over 40 miles, or so) the CEL goes off and stays off. I even went through the extent of leaving it disconnected over night..still shows the same codes, so im going to have to tear into the dirty part and get specific.. But..one thing i dont understand.. if it has ALL these codes.. what makes the light even come on? surely they cant just all stop malfunctioning at once..can they? My codes still stand at: 12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor. 51 Injector Circuit. 45 Injector Leak. 34 Knock Sensor. 23 Idle Switch.

LOL what in the world, B anyway..leaving it unplugged overnight didnt work.. i printed a few diagnosis/troubleshooting procedures from alldata, and nothing.. the only thing i havent done is tested the prongs.. any ideas before i have to completely tear into it??

neighbor suggested i leave the battery disconnected overnight..so..ill see how that works out..

it clicks on when the wires to the pressure cycling switch are jumped to the battery.. i swapped relays off the AC in the quest (works fine in it) and..still nothing.. im not sure what it is..

So today i read the success stories of adding another maf ground...so i did. And i knew, with any modification, id need to reset the ECU, so it can start fresh. Well..my keyless was working perfectly.. i reconnect my battery..and now my alarm light is flashing rapidly, again. (before i bought the new alarm brains) what did i do??

Fuse is good! Thanks! Btw my cigarette lighter is constantly being used for my volt meter.. which i dont think would cause a problem..

It could be! How do i check it? or, is there even a way to check it..

Okay. So i did a vacuum test on my A/C lines..and..they hold a vacuum over an extended period of time perfectly. So i went ahead and charged it (at shop) just so I can have A/C because the heat is killing me.. Well, my A/C compressor will NOT kick on at all...unless i jump it. Then it works perfectly, and the air gets nice and cold inside.. I get power to the switch, (A/C button) and the switch works properly.. BUT what could be causing it not to engage? I replaced the relay with a known working one, to no avail. I do know that my fan speed selector is one off.. like say.. 1 is off, 2 is 1 3 is 2 and 4 is 4.. when i push it against the edge (past 4 a little) it actually works, going full speed.. If its this module..is it repairable? How hard is it to replace, coz i notice there's like 3 cables that control, say the vents add defrost modes and such. Thanks!!

Okay..so..the only one i could find, was one off a 4x4 D21 (the parts pathy i buy from didnt have either..someone got them..) and..all the D21 trucks there were all worn, but this was the best i could get for now.. It fixed: Steering wheel alignment (actually points straight instead of crooked) Steering wheel can be left alone and it still drives straight! NO MORE SHAKING!!!! other than my unbalanced tires..but..fixing that tomorrow. THANKS everyone!!!!!!! and YES this is temporary until i can find a better one..

LOL no, i listened to the comments.. coz..id rather save teh pathy! but..i DID drive to to school today, no problem. The reason i drove it was because i wanted to balance my tires..so..i balance them all perfectly, head home and..cant get over 45mph because it starts shaking uncontrollably, almost making me lose control..so..i crawl at 30mph on a 55 the whole 11 miles.. it SUCKED and was embarassing.. so..i made it a point to myself, im not driving it until its fixed.. Just asked the boss to borrow 20$ so ill stop by the junk yard and get one off the pathy there.. But..just so i could make sure there was no damage done, i had a friend turn the wheel several times, (even turning it with it off and lifted) and nothing seems out of line or loose..except the tension rod, what was left that actually touched the frame is now gone and touching nothing.. Thanks everyone!!!! Ill let you guys know how it goes after i get it..

cup things?? its definitely feeling like its making that noise worse.. (the sound of the rod hitting the frame) now..i just have to find one

Thanks! I just wasnt sure if it were something more serious or not.. its amazing how one little thing can cause so much of an issue!

So, i've finally fixed my alarm/remote issues, and various other problems and im down to my engine codes (going to try a new MAF soon) But, i have a new problem, that seems to possibly be getting worse? So, at speeds around 0-40mph all is fine, no shaking or anything.. once i start hitting around 50-60mph, it starts shaking, and i have to turn the wheel slightly right (makes it look like im swerving..) to get it to stop..but as soon as the wheel straight, it starts making the thumping sound and shaking..but as long as im turning on a curve (usually rides smooth around slight right curves) but..i KNOW that my strut rod is GONE. its snapped in half and im in the look out for one..but..would that be the cause of the shaking? Thanks! Also..does..anyone else notice a whirring noise at speeds around 35mph? It's definitely coming from the diff, but..is it a problem? The noise stops as soon as i let off the gas, and starts as soon as i touch the pedal..but its loudest at 35mph..

i have the same 'grinding sound' only in reverse, turns out its the rear drums. hope this helps explain it!

Wouldnt this be where a drop down hitch is necessary? ive never really towed, but it seems like it may help.. Sort of like this: http://www.hitchcorner.com/ball_mounts.htm#drop_down I think some you can have, for say an adjustable height with the ball..but i cant seem to find it..hope this helps!!

The door switches ARE notorious on going out on our pathys Try testing them as well and seeing if they work..if not it may be a broken wire/short somewhere else.. doesnt hurt to try, right?

Okay..so i bought a multimeter..where do i start? I tried checking for voltage from the MAF plug..but i get nothing.. (i could be doing something wrong) I'm pushing the pin in the pins on the maf plug and grounding the other one on the engine..and hoping for voltage..is that right? If so..how do i check the maf with the plug plugged in? coz i dont see how you can check the maf, running.. Thanks! i do know the ground i added only has .02 ohms resistance..so im assuming that's alright.. but..any ideas?? Thanks Im assuming itll be the samev way to check my idle switch.. if those come up alright or something wrong, ill check the injectors for resistance? EDIT Shoved prong down inside MAF connector..and grounded the other prong..i can get around 1.0-2.5v from the maf when revving it..so its putting out voltage..so..it shouldnt be sending out a code..right? Checked all injectors..except 4 and 6.. all read 13.8-14.0 ohms resistance i know this doesnt help, but ill add the voltages of 4 and 6 when i can figure out how to reach them.. #4 was the injector i replaced before buying it..

0 PSI is cheating!!!!