NissanNismoZ

OK so i know that im wiring it correctly..but.. im wiring B to 17 and C to 16..straight from the MAF and..its running kinda bad now, i cant get any voltage signal from the maf at all, but its still getting the power supply..whats going on?? i dont understand what im doing wrong...

okay, so my shop teacher told me to run new wires to the ECU from the maf and see if that helps..just done it and will reply when i can test it.

Nope, MAF is sending out 2.15v and the computer is receiving .59v ..could that be a prblem ir is there some sort of step-down somewhere?

So..i've exhausted all possibilities.. FSM is of no help in this situation..does anyone else have any other ideas? Most of what i've done is...: Replaced MAF harness and connector. Replaced MAF Sensor Replaced ECU Added several grounds Tested in every single way we could think possible. Any more ideas? I'm the stubborn type and its really aggravating to me that i cant figure out something.. So of course, i'm about to take it to a shop and have them fix it.. i'm completely lost now.

I pulled all my fuses individually and nothing changed..hmm..

So! Today i was told to check for a electrical leak..so i did by checking for volts. -.44v = Top of my radiator +.18v = Top radiator hose clam +.18v +.20v = Other side of radiator hose clamp (closest to engine) +.21v = Fuel line clamp under the intake, under the two grounds, (refer to previous posts to see picture) I'm out of places to probe.. any ideas?? BTW when i check for ohms on the intake, it goes into the negatives, -.19 ohms resistance...?

both correct! So i'm going to try and remedy this problem by changing harnesses completely. Thanks guys!! its appreciated!

nevermind that..apparently that was a diagnostic mode..heh.

Grounded Pin B on connector and wire to a new spot, spliced together and erased the codes, to find it flashes like this now...: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPYV-b1th1s

The fix to this is replacing your Door Lock Timer..it tends to go bad and messes up more frequently when cold. It's located behind your Driver Side brake light panel..if you need help just ask!

That's why i've sort of stayed back..im trying to figure this out..OK. so..should i ground the wire coming from the harness as well? coz i just left it sitting there, but i DID ground teh wire coming from the MAF. Pin 17..im not sure if its even supposed to be grounded, because when i check for volts, i get the battery voltage... and when B is NOT grounded, it sputters and coughs and tries to stall out..so im ASSUMING B is ground. right? So..here's what im thinking, from experience... A = Signal B = Ground C = Reference voltage.

with it unplugged it seems to run horribly, such as..it doesnt want to do anything at all.. i do agree, the diagram IS confusing..

(i may not have had it hooked up right) but i hooked it back up to stock..and.. it stumbled HORRIBLY like put..put..put.. i was waiting for it to stall out..so i hooked it back up how i had it, to a ground, and it started up running smoothly..so..maybe it is a ground wire?

So, i went ahead and fixed that problem! Now some further testing shall be in place..

oh! That could be my whole problem.. O.o time to redo my wiring the way they had it!! I wasnt aware of this at all..heh..thanks!

Though i;'m not sure if the R50's have it, try looking under the driver seat, or even the passenger seat for a sensitivty switch, and switching it to low. Hope this helps!

Pin 17 seems to decrease on throttle, so it may be just varying to keep the temperature evened out.. so my understanding is this.. One wire connects for power (all sensors need at least 5v to operate(REFERENCE wire)) One wire is the output (SIGNAL wire) And the other wire is the ground..which, i made my own to the front of the engine.. it could even be my ground i made, but i made two just in case..im wondering if i should just snip the connector off the other pathy and put it on mine.. as long as the other connector is good, i should be able to splice into it.. right? Thanks!! I feel like we may be getting somewhere..finally!

THANK YOU!! So..got some more comments..and was told i should replace what usually goes wrong; the MAF connector.. Thanks!! Your feedback was very appreciated and i actualyl read a LOT of the link you posted.. (my FSM is missing that..for some reason..) and it helped me understand a lot more, at least..

Okay..so i did a lot of work and got nowhere.. Bought a newer ECU, put it in, CEL came on within half a mile. Fixed my vacuum leak (the small line at the top of the intake) and removed my intake plenum to unpinch the injector wire, foudn ot the plastic piece around it was melted, repaired it and straightened it out let the battery stay disconnected for 30 minutes, got in, let ir run, revved it some, turned it off, repeated the process 3 times, no CEL put it in reverse to pull out, not far after reversing, CEL comes on, and stays on. All the same codes with both computers. I'm at a total LOSS and have no idea what to do.. I've done all the testing, and got results (good or bad, i dont know, they seemed fine.) i dont know what to do!!

Here you go! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=10354 That is a nice complete write-up on how to do it ^ Usually, if you look in the driver side or passenger side brake light compartments..youll find it, if someones already done it for you..if nothings there..you'll have to do it yourself..but..if you need help, feel free to ask!

that it did! hmm..any other ideas on what i should do? im at a loss.. thanks!