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NissanNismoZ

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Everything posted by NissanNismoZ

  1. So, they finally got it running and now it just has a miss to it, so i told him to replace the spark plug wires.. All in all, just for replacing the rotor, the radiator and starter all had to be replaced during all this. Thanks everyone! He says its running way better than it ever has, so im assuming the timing needed adjusted anyway.
  2. That 350Z is beautiful!! I have to say, the 350Z has always been my favorite car, very nice setup you have on it!! Oh, and also, welcome to NPORA.
  3. Hahah! That was the first thing i caught when they played that episode. I love it.
  4. oh yeah, we know its getting fuel because the plugs are soaked..and we know its getting spark because we keep getting shocked, as one of the coil wires seems to have a crack in it. Yeah, the starter just spins and spins but doesnt engage now..ugh. I feel bad for him as now he doesnt have a vehicle, but we had to use the red pathy to pull his up on the trailer to tow it to his house. I'll get back to this topic when he can afford to get a starter.
  5. We've swapped batteries all day testing it, but, his starter is spinning, but not engaging now.
  6. There went the starter..as soon as it starts to want to run, the starter goes out.
  7. No dice..still wont start..any more ideas? Tried swapping the whole ignition system off mine and still nothing, just hits and tries, but rarely. The starter is getting worn out im sure. We even tried swapping it 180 and it just backfires loudly..
  8. Thank you so much! About to go try it now, ill post the results.. For some reason i thought the middle mark was TDC. Not sure why i did, but thats probably whats wrong as well.
  9. Ok, this is actually for a friend of mine's Pathy, but here goes. He came over wanting me to change his rotor and bad plug wire that was shorting out on his hood (OUCH!) So, we did it, and his rotor was stuck on, and with lots of prying we got it off, but the metal piece that screws into the shaft had separated from the rotor. So we take out the middle screw that holds the distributor rotor in line with the distributor shaft, and knocked it out of time, (sort of forgot to mark the position, my bad) So, we've tried timing it by the crank marks, putting the rotor on at the middle mark on the crank, to number one cyl. No go. Tried timing it to my pathy's timing to the crank. No go. Tried both posittions, one, it back fires LOUDLY as if a gun is being shot, the other 180, just turns and turns to no avail. Any ideas?? Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!!!! He already had to miss a day of work because of this..oops. I've done all i know what to do..
  10. It's just a one wire blade connector. Both of my Pathy's connectors broke off, so i crimped a new connector on both and it's worked fine. It should be right up front.
  11. Looks like ill be selling both beasts..Cant afford to keep them up anymore, and end up getting something cheaper on gas and more reliable.. :/

    1. 92Path_68CJ

      92Path_68CJ

      I know the feeling man, I'm parting my 92 right now.

      It was in my family since I was born.

      It ain't fun at all.

    2. The_Magicians_Eye
    3. Tungsten
  12. So the culprit is my passenger side hub??
  13. Er, so, the black 94 has this grinding noise, like, something is rubbing the tire, or like a can on a bicycle tire.. But pops deeply and stops. OK. It did it when I first got it, suspected the hub was bad and took out the lock ring. OK. No more problems. So i needed 4WD to get up a mountain so I borrowed red Pathys hub and lock ring and it made the trip just fine. (not sure if this has anything to do with it) but I thought I'd exercise my reverse to my neighbors since they needed me. On my way back home, there it was. The now evem louder GRINNNNNDDDDDD POP noise. I thought it was a fluke and ignored it since it used to go away once I took off again. Nope. I head out to work and notice it GRINDDDDDDDD POP over and over, and making a noise like the wheel locks up for a second. So i didnt trust it and left it home. I never noticed it do this in 4WD Black Pathys hub works fine in red Pathy. Either hub does it on black Pathy. Any idea what this can be?? I can take the lock ring out and it'll be fine again..
  14. I hate to say this, but this is exactly what my Red 95 Pathy is doing g and why I bought the black one.. If you find out anything be sure to post up! I've replaced every sensor on it and nothing fixed it. It also has Cold air intake Efan swap When I get on red Pathy like.. Over half throttle it just gets loud and.. Powerless. Like it's ducking on air but not going! (I'm not thread jacking I swear, just seeing if maybe we have the same problem and we can collaborate and fix it! Does yours, say, the more throttle you give it the louder and less powerful, compared to light throttle? I just know it's slow and hills I usually have to take at 4-5k rpm to hold 55mph.
  15. I agree with the O2 sensor. My black Pathy would do the same thing. It would be ok under light throttle cold, but until it warmed up it would randomly sputter loudly like all fuel cut out. CEL would come on too. Unplug the o2 and see if that helps. I replaced my o2 and its been great since. MAF, ECTS and O2 would be the things to check! Just thought I'd give some I do toward my o2 experience.
  16. Wheel cylinder.. Is that the part that has the bleeder nipple on it? I thought I was going to need a whole axle if I were ever wanting to bleed that again.. I can't do much with the pathy at the moment.. As its down for the thermostat housing leaking (I can't get it to seal right after 4 attempts.. Even sanding it down flat hasn't helped..) So ill take it into the shop and have them fix that. I'll post back when I'm able to work on the brakes again. Thanks everyone! Itd be nice if that part was replaceable
  17. Hmm.. I'll try bleeding the brakes again. The brake fluid is clear, not appearing dirty really. Should it be fine to bleed again? With me not able to bleed the rear passenger wheel? I'd assume if the booster were bad my pedal would be stiff.. Or would it? It just seems like it won't get up enough pressure.. I'll try bleeding again then checking the booster per FSM. Thanks!
  18. So I've been having this problem where I have a lot of pedal travel before the brakes really work.. Sometimes I have to downshift and ebrake to stop quickly.. But I take a look around.. And my pads and rotors both look alright. They don't look low. I noticed going down a hill when I had my e fan quite a bit my brake pedal was harder and I was able to stop with brake pedal pressure.. If that even applies.. But I vled my brakes.. With the exception of one wheel.. My rear pass. Wheel coz the bleeder snapped off. But.. Bleeding didn't seem to help.. I can pump my brakes and the pedal doesn't get any harder.. I just don't know what it is but the pedal is really soft and if I stop hard I have to kinda double take.. Push once then push again? It'll sometimes go close to the floor before my brakes really seem to do anything.. Any ideas?
  19. my 94 has the 93 sytle alarm and it has that relay. its the relay for starter kill. hope this helps :-)
  20. hmmm.. it definitely sounds like the alarm, as the alarm does click when 'upset' opening the door after locked can mess it up. my red pathy doesnt like being unlocked with the key after being locked with the fob. itll click over and over thn clickk and beep over and over then get faster and trigger the alarm..is this what yours does? if so..definitely alarm. hope this helps.
  21. I actually didn't think about that. Glad you told me! I'll look it up now. Thanks!!
  22. I'd imagine if the flasher was bad they would just stay on and not flash. Sounds like you could have dirty contacts on your switch, or a bad switch.
  23. WOW. There is a lot to it..found a VG30e sitting that slung a piston in the jy and went about it. Said if I remove it myself its 10$. So I took the offer and spent around 30min. Getting it off. Didn't realize how much there is to it. I just don't feel comfortable messing with a vital part of the motor like that.. at all. So I'll definitely be having someone else do it..when the money provides. This oil pump looks fairly clean and didn't appear yo leak as the motor was clean on the exterior. Thanks guys for the info. I did not know it would require removing the diff..that's definitely way more than I consider myself able to to without forgetting something.. thank you! I appreciate you all.
  24. You mean they flash on and off?! Just kidding, but have you checked the flasher? When you say they go out..do you mean they stay on without flashing? Or stay off and nothing? Sounds like either a bad switch(stalk) (or dirty contacts) or your flasher unit. Its a little black box under your steering wheel. TTap/ smack it when they stop working and see if that helps? Do you have hazards when they stop working?
  25. Just wondering has anyone done it? Mine, which I blamed the FMS leaking, it was really the oil pump. Upon looking at it and Cleaning it off, I discover its cracked! I usually only have to put a qt of oil in it about once a month or so but I'd like to fix this before it gets worse. Is there a procedure that would make it easier to replace? I can't seem to find one in the FSM.. But I did buy a new FMS. And will be getting a junk yard oil pump as I can't afford one new. What else should I replace while I'm down there or what else should I need..any pointers? Thanks! (More or less I'm asking is out something I should tackle myself or save up and have a shop do it?)

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