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NissanNismoZ
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Everything posted by NissanNismoZ
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So i flexed out the Pathy to the most i ever have before..the rear driver tire was barely/if even touching the ground...so when i went to back out, the diff made a LOUD noise and barely wanted to move..so i kept on and t eventually backed out..but what was that??
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Air filters made in Mexico.... the same factory?
NissanNismoZ replied to westslope's topic in General Forums
Call me stupid..but K&N filters can harm your engine on the long-term..? -
Oh yeah..32 x 11.50 Remington Mud Brute..all for pathy. Cant wait to put the bigger JGC springs in, crank the t-bars and put on the new tires.
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32x11.50 Remington Mud Brute...50$ for all 4..should i?
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Just Envying Every Pathfinder... how's that sound for a window sticker in a county full of lifted jeeps?
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I'd it possible one of your belts are just loose? Have you tried removing one belt at a time? alternator whining?
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starter swap without removing the oil filter?
NissanNismoZ replied to Balln's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Mine was fairly easy compared to what you guys are saying.. My starter went out and my Pathy is stock height.. I unplugged the starter connection s and oil pressure connector and twisted and turned it, pulled on the tranny line in the way and it came right out.. Did the exact opposite and the new one went right in.. I didn't remove my oil filter.. Has anyone not tried it this way? The center link seemed like the only thing that would get in the way unless you move the tranny lines like I did.. Also the truck was driven up on ramps and not lifted up (may make a difference in steering/suspension placement) hope this helps! -
Looks like o have to do this now...ugh. I'm not comfortable doing this but can't afford the 300$ to have it done.. Btw 1994SEV6 did you tighten the two nuts together really tight first? Just an idea.. I have a drill but its not the most powerful..so lets hope none break inside.. thanks for the great write up!
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Hmmm..I could do it myself.. but what would I need? I'm kinda iffy if ill screw it up or not..
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I was quoted 200-300$ to do the job..is that bad? And worth it? I really want to know if leaking studs can cause a power loss..thanks guys..
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Yep..i think you got it now..ugh. My exhaust studs are broken worse im guessing by how loud it is now.. Looks like ill have to dish more money into that part..as long as thats the problem?
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I do have a CAI. So I guess that could be it..but I do wonder ..when it started hesitating it would sometimes go back to full power or bog.. since this adjustment it hasn't bogged yet, but I'm worried it will as it seems there's still some power loss up hills..but 90% better.
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Engine was cold, it only seems to do it when its on its cold start phase
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Okay..so. I can confirm it feels like most power is back but the hesitation problem is back now I was backing out of my driveway and felt it stumble unless I let off slightly or push it harder.. so what could this be? Sometimes it feels like I have to fluctuate the pedal some when it's feeling powerless..any ideas? I noticed the manual Pathy doesn't have a potentiometer..so does that mean the auto's tps has no effect on fuel mixture? Thanks. Just trying to track my problem down..unless the maf is screwing up..
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Nope, it's the auto TPS Well, i mean mine has the auto, the on e in the video does look to be the manual one.
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Aha. So, apparently i hooked my leads backwards.. I find it shifts smoothly at .50v and tada! Power is restored. I'll confirm this tomorrow after its had time to cool down..but so far, so good! Thanks fMan for the video!
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Okay..can someone please help me? I need clarification on how to adjust my TPS... Okay, so. At idle, it was reading 4.23v...ok so i shut it off and review the FSM..it says it should read .4 - .6 volts. 4 volts seems way too high..so i open the throttle wide open, and adjust it to .49v and take it on a test drive.. WOW. HUUUUGE power increase..but wait. Why does it shift so late and why do i have to let WAY off the pedal for it to shift now? Can someone clarify on how its supposed to be adjusted, and maybe a picture of their TPS adjustment...? It would be really appreciated...Thanks! Here's a pic of my adjustment now...:
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Its not, its just conntected to the EGR. I don't have a way of blocking it yet. Good news: I actually adjusted the TPS until it finally idled right (my multimeter can't stick in the connector far enough to read voltage... ) So I adjusted it by test drives of most power..and hesitation is gone! It idles at 550 - 600 rpm instead of shuddering at 450rpm. I will adjust it properly as soon as I figure out how to get my multimeter to read it..ill do it properly. It actually just spun in wet pavement. Ill give more results when I get it adjusted right..
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So i made a REAL block-off plate today, and used some RTV sealant to seal it off, and bolted in the EGR to hold it tight.. i let it sit for an hour and test drove it..meh. it's doing some better but it's still not right..there's still that hesitation.. Looks like i'll be re-adjusting my TPS... Also, i've noticed my exhaust tick is extremely loud lately....can that cause a power loss..? I have a friend with the same year pathy with an exhaust leak and in need of new plugs/wires and it still outdoes mine by a LOT. Acceleration used to be to 3k rpm..and id be up to speed..lately i have to drive it up to 4500 to get anywhere 'fast' It just seems like the less pedal i give it, the better off it is..so im guessing the TPS may be adjusted just a hair too far? can the TPS adjustment mess with it this much? Thanks.
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Finally..sheet metal + RTV silicone sealant + 2 hours prep work and now i have an EGR block-off plate! Now i let it sit for one hour and see how it does with the EGR fully disabled...
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Pepsi to the rescue! I cut it to fit the EGR gasket exactly and put it in and at first it idled way down..to where it was showing 0 RPM and an occaisional bump..tehn straightened itself out..either way its better than before. I know this isnt permanent but its going to work until i can get a block-off plate made.
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Looks like im cutting up a can and blocking it off until i can either get a new one or get a plate made.i think messing with the EGR by pumping it may have cracked or ripped the diaphragm because now it wont even reach over 45mph on flat ground! ah well. itll work until i can get it fixed properly.
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I know someone that drove without one before getting a new one and as long as the pump is already bad what can you damage? Its only safe if you have the strength to handle it..
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Ugh..now its back to waiting. Letting the EGR sit all night in Carb cleaner still results in me having to pump it a few tines before leaving or it falls on its face. Can't afford a new EGR and the junkyard doesn't have one. Ha. Who knows maybe the people junked that Pathy because of its EGR and I grabbed one in the same condition as mine.
