NissanNismoZ

So i made a REAL block-off plate today, and used some RTV sealant to seal it off, and bolted in the EGR to hold it tight.. i let it sit for an hour and test drove it..meh. it's doing some better but it's still not right..there's still that hesitation.. Looks like i'll be re-adjusting my TPS... Also, i've noticed my exhaust tick is extremely loud lately....can that cause a power loss..? I have a friend with the same year pathy with an exhaust leak and in need of new plugs/wires and it still outdoes mine by a LOT. Acceleration used to be to 3k rpm..and id be up to speed..lately i have to drive it up to 4500 to get anywhere 'fast' It just seems like the less pedal i give it, the better off it is..so im guessing the TPS may be adjusted just a hair too far? can the TPS adjustment mess with it this much? Thanks.

NissanNismoZ Not much..but I love it.

Pepsi to the rescue! I cut it to fit the EGR gasket exactly and put it in and at first it idled way down..to where it was showing 0 RPM and an occaisional bump..tehn straightened itself out..either way its better than before. I know this isnt permanent but its going to work until i can get a block-off plate made.

Looks like im cutting up a can and blocking it off until i can either get a new one or get a plate made.i think messing with the EGR by pumping it may have cracked or ripped the diaphragm because now it wont even reach over 45mph on flat ground! ah well. itll work until i can get it fixed properly.

I know someone that drove without one before getting a new one and as long as the pump is already bad what can you damage? Its only safe if you have the strength to handle it..

Ugh..now its back to waiting. Letting the EGR sit all night in Carb cleaner still results in me having to pump it a few tines before leaving or it falls on its face. Can't afford a new EGR and the junkyard doesn't have one. Ha. Who knows maybe the people junked that Pathy because of its EGR and I grabbed one in the same condition as mine.

Yep..its practically leaking out as soon as i put it to it..also, when its installed on the truck it makes a purring noise anyway...ill probably just cap it since it doesnt do anything but steal my air power.

Also, when its driving RIGHT i have brakes..when the EGR is acting up it idles so low i barely have brakes...

So it's safe to remove? because i spray carb cleaner through it and you can see it 'radiating' through the inside of it..it also doesnt hold vacuum when applied?

I had this SAME problem. The reason being is because you have to use the guts of your old one. A golden piece slides in the inside from behind, and a golden washer goes in front while a cap piece goes on the outside. Hope this helps! I

Quite a lot actually.. Put on new tensioner and new belt for A/C Recharged A/C Put the skid plate back on after repainting. Installed new EGR valve (new to me, anyway.) Removed new EGR valve for cleaning. It's been a long day, but it's getting to where it needs to be, and the heat has been extreme lately so i thought i should go ahead and get the A/C going again...

And i definitely appreciate it! So today i went to the junkyard..got a EGR valve off a 95 LE. Tada! Drives even BETTER than it has been! it still idles low as crap..but i dont know what to do about that. Anyway, it treated me good until around 30m driving..i stop and get a drink and get back in..and bleeeehhhhh. I instinctively get out, pump the EGR and tada! good as new. Why do i have such bad luck with these?! I stuck the EGR in a tiny bowl nearly full of carb cleaner (it covers the in and out ports) and im going to let it sit overnight. I will say this EGR actually moves up and down smoothly compared to my old one. I'm starting to question the EGR-BPT valve..what does it do and how does it affect the running? I've seen some pathy's without them..

You know..I can't seem to replicate the problem.. no matter how I drive it it just won't do it again. I mean it shifts into every gear quickly.. I'm going to try letting the EGR sit over night in Carb cleaner tomorrow (have to borrow a friends HUGE channel locks to get that pipe off) and ill see if that fixes the EGR. But the TPS was NOT really adjusted. It seems like it needs it but I never could find the page in the FSM. Thanks TownCivilian for the very specific information. I currently don't own a torque wrench so ill wait before I do a pan drop. Thanks everyone! Ill try adjusting the TPS and seeing if that helps. All I did was change it out and put the new one in the screw 'marks' Also..what type of transmission fluid is best for these? Thanks! Circuitry.. UGH that's right! Can anyone tell me what that loom that's on the passenger side valve cover goes to that leads to the tranny?? I forgot to loom it back and it melted against the exhaust (in under 15 minutes of idling) it killed my Meter fuse and left the gauges dead with a very very faint battery light on the dash. I still haven't repaired it as I forgot all about it.

Honestly I haven't maintained it.. yet. It was on the list of todo when I get a chance but never got around to it.. The E-AT light only blinks at startup then stays off unless I turn it on. I do remember the switch was on auto and when the truck had ZERO power the light came on and stayed on and it drove like I had the switch to on. I guess it thought I was towing something? This is with overdrive on (with the light not on on the dash) I don't know how to tell if its the torque converter or not..I just know its usually when I want it to downshift from the torque converter being locked.

Ugh..if it isn't one thing, its another. I've noticed (I still have the huge power loss from the EGR being screwed up) I have to push it a little harder before hitting a hill..it unlocks the torque converter then ill push harder and it'll slip, ill let off some then it'll shift back into gear..I will say my reverse works great..so I don't think the tranny is shot...yet.. But what could this be..? I checked the fluid and its normal..and I noticed a few air bubbles on the stick .. I've put so much into the Pathy for the tranny to fail now..

Of course this should be followed up with test results of both Short and long term.. All in all you really couldn't ask for a more descriptive write-up. Now we just need to know how well this is going to work and how long..

Also..check to make sure your EGR valve is working properly and not sticking.. mine started doing this then it got to the point to where it wouldnt want to accelerate at all!

Hmm..alright. Thanks guys! Ill probably go with the 3M if it isn't too expensive

Not a problem! You really can't tell it! Will do, it'll probably be seafoamed as much as possible! Muahaha.

Thanks! Have to say i'm loving how your Pathy has come along.. It looks mean!! I've ran Seafoam through it once..but that was a year ago..i'll probably run some through it again since the lower intake i put on it didnt look as clean as the one i had.. I can say that after all this i'm a pro at removing and re assembling the upper and lower intakes. Though im pretty sure i dont want to touch that territory again for a WHILE. I'll try that..Thanks!!

Wow..yeah I do mean the little butterfly plate. Mine is probably due for a cleaning, no doubt.. Oh trust me..if i were going to give up, i would have taken the offer to trade it to the 98 Frontier...but nah. I have too much time into pathy to just..trade it. I will say this morning i cleaned the EGR to the best of my ability and it definitely drives like it used to. I can actually pass people up hills, an d it has REAL throttle response! My guess is since my timing is so advanced (all the way) its causing it to be still a little sluggish, but honestly im scared to retard it back to where it was... Oh yeah, trust me. I'm a proud Pathy owner. Haha! That's true! And it's still better looking than any Jeep or Toyota while its running bad!

Hmmm..not sure if you mean the throttle body or the intake Plenum..I once cleaned my throttle plate n all around it with Carb cleaner but that's about it..

I mean seal wise..maybe one is leaking down past the Injector..though it is possible the injector is sticking open but usually you'd see a code. Maybe start by checking resistance on all injectors and see if you can find an odd one out?