NissanNismoZ

Had it checked out, they seemed concerned how there's play left and righ, but they tried the pry at trick, and the wheel didn't move.. They referred to the proble Neon possibly upper ball joint/bearings and the pitman arm?

Okay, while my tranny is still working GREAT i want to attempt cleaning my stock cooler for the tranny.. mainly coz i cant afford one right now. I figure if its lasted this long, replacing the lines and cleaning the cooler, it can last as long twice! So..how would you go at this? is it the cooler clogging or the lines? Thanks!

whoa..so..i looked and noticed how dangerous a failed ball joint can be..yeah, im having that checked right away!!! Actually kinda scary..

TWSS x7 jus' sayin. Also, if you follow the steps step-by-step I would get several pieces of tape, sticky side out, write the step numbers, and place the screws on each step you marked on the tape..like | TAPE BEGIN | |Step 1 | |. . . o | The tape will hold the screws so you dont lose them! Duct tape works well for this purpose, as well. Just an idea, but works for me when im doing something complicated..hope this helps!

nope, i just lifted it to check for looseness in the wheel..it honestly felt like the lugnuts were loose..but they werent.. just to help describe how it felt.

OK so after i washed it and waxed it..devoting a whole day to IT. I lifted it again..and found out: The wheel makes a noise when kick it..the same noise i hear when i brake or am going down the road at a low speed! The wheel does NOT move left to right.. The wheel DOES move a tiny amount up and down (may be in and out, not sure) but, when i do that, it makes that sound im talking about.. So what is this? Thanks!

Hmm..when i last checked everything was fine..i dont think its a ball joint because my wheel doesnt move up or down when i jack it up and try to move it.. last i checked everything looked fine. but i suppose ill remove it today and see if its just the caliper.. im thinking the caliper could be loose or something..not sure but im worried its going to be the death of me.. It also pulls to that side while driving.. if that helps any..? Thanks!

So..since my problem is getting worse, i figured i should be concerned and ask what it could be.. I've noticed pulling out from stop lights or so, i hear a clinking that gets quieter, yet faster as i speed up.. OK no biggie..i just ignore it.. but if i brake really hard, it tends to make a loud pop sound and jerk to the right.. (the side that makes the sound when rolling) Anyone have any ideas?

hmmmm.. does it change with temperature? try the coolant temp sensor if so! or even the o2 That is a great point! Especially it being 8 months into it..

Haven't been able to check codes but I can say my CEL is off way more than it is on..its actually getting rare for it to be on.. I think this may have gotten us a lot closer to a solution!

I have to admit, it definitely gives it a LOT more power..I tend to spin tires where I'm used to having to push the pedal down fairly hard..and it downshifts quicker, whereas before it would take even more pedal pushing to get it to.. Cel is stil on, haven't checked codes or erased them yet. But I can say the cel stayed off until I started rolling around 15mph. Possibly speed sensor but I'll check when I'm home. I hope this did it!!

WOW Ok, so the long hose running to some thing under the intake to the EGR valve.. had a big hole in it from dry rotting.. replaced itand other vacuum lines..and tada! idle switch works too! So i'll see if it does any better..But..definitely a big improvement..

You have a point, ill try that Monday..i'm starting my big long troubleshooting deal then..and hoping to get somewhere.. I'll do that starting monday, as it looks like its come to that. Thanks! At least then i can narrow it down to one thing..hopefully. ANYWAY. I brought it to school shop today and ran a bunch of tests on it.. Here's what i've come to: When checking my codes, i get 14 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit 32 EGR System Problem why i'm getting only getting those two, i have no idea..coz if i check the codes via ECU..i get the codes listed at the first post of this topic..but yet, if i check them with our scan tool..i get the VSS and EGR... which one should i trust?! So i check the Air/Fuel mixture..it said as long as the air and fuel matched up with the exhaust readings..its within specs. Both were alternating between Rich and Lean at 2k rpm. (good or bad? (according to the scan tool its within specs because they were reading the same.)) I do the Real Time Fault Monitor..all checked out OK at idle, but as soon as i put it at 2k RPM again, it showed AIRFLOW CKT (FAULT) FUEL PUMP (NORMAL) CRANK ANGLE SENSOR SIGNAL (NORMAL) IGNITION COIL PRIMARY SIGNAL (NORMAL) at idle, AIRFLOW CKT (NORMAL) FUEL PUMP (NORMAL) CRANK ANGLE SENSOR SIGNAL (NORMAL) IGNITION COIL PRIMARY SIGNAL (NORMAL) so..i figure this may help a LOT Im going to clean my EGR valve and see if that helps.. Once again..thank you EVERYONE I really appreciate everyone's input in helping me..along with the patience you're giving. If cleaning the EGR doesnt help, i will start troubleshooting by the FSM as MrT mentioned.

Yeah, i was driving up the highway..why..what's wrong with that? My speedo works fine compared to the GPS.. I just dont floor my pathy.. i usualyl try to make it shift asap to save on gas.. at the most i let it shift at 3200RPM i definitely have electrical issues..but..i cant figure it out... Hmm..the only pathy i know is one that has had a lot of stuff pulled from it..but engine and tranny wise, it ran and parked itself in the junkyard.., it was only junked because of its frame.. How long is the wiring harness? would that be a job one person could tackle in a day, or would it be more of a project..? I'm very adventurous and desperate to do what it takes... You had a bad solder in your ECU..or..what? where was your problem at? the actual wires at the connector? You do have a point.. But thats why i tried to 'fix' the wiring by wiring it straight to the ECU..and when i did that it idled extremely high and everytime i just -tap- the gas pedal it would idle down then back up... In theory, wiring straight to the ECU should eliminate all electrical problems...right?? I tried mixing my wiring (one wire mine, one wire factory wiring) and it ran at 2RPM (no joke!) I totally agree, but i really appreciate EVERYONES input on this issue..really, i do..

hmmm..so do you happen to know where the common grounds for those are?? I even went as far as adding two extra grounds to the MAF sensor! I just dont get why when i straight wired it, wiring it the same way its supposed to be, according to the FSM, it would idle extremely high like that.. Not yet, but when i head out for work i will.. Thanks! Will post back with results when im able!

Hmm..actually, that sounds just like my problem, only im fairly sure mine revs freely..no problem at all... But i havent tried revving it cold.. Hmm..i dont have an idling problem, it definitely fast idles like its supposed to, but maybe yours is a MAF issue? Hmmm..honestly, i would, if i had the money..but i have no idea what it would cost.. Yeah, for a whole 8 months, i've been battling these problems.. The ECU is good, i have tried numerous ECU's to come out with the same codes and the same problems... I'm feeling adventurous, im OK with wiring, but as far as understanding how wiring works, im good to go. But see, when i tried straight wiring my MAF sensor to the computer, it would idle extremely high (2k rpm) and wouldnt stop doing it! Anyway, here's the video.. It wasnt as cold out, so it didnt act up like it usually does..but maybe you can get an idea.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dtyg44GI1k