NissanNismoZ

22 miles round trip 5-6 days a week.. -shrugs- it pays for the Pathy at least..

Alright so now I have a bigger problem.. When it rains it POURS (no pun intended) out water when I turn left. To the point of soaking the carpet.. Any ideas what this could be? It's actually getting pretty serious and I'm worried it'll be hitting the ECU next.. Thanks!

Wow, im glad i didnt overlook it, thank you! I'll be sure to check this out tomorrow! (i would today, but..work calls...) I appreciate it! I didnt think it was anything to be concerned with, but i noticed that little hose piece..

So..i'm going down the road and i hear this loud sizzling noise..like..cold hitting hot, or cold getting frozen, etc. i got curious and did a circle, and looked in the passenger side and noticed water dripping on the passenger side floor board..meanwhile the A/C is still properly charged, all fluids are still good and A/C is still cold. Is it just condensation? or something serious? I was thinking something along the lines of a drain hose being possibly clogged, but i'm not sure... Thanks.

They did, and we're nice about it! Was going to be 212 But they waived it.

My bad she has the 3.8L But. Had the dealership check it and it's the water pump. Thank goodness for the 30 day warranty.. Thanks everyone!!

Try bleeding the brakes all around to get any air out. Sounds like air in the lines or a bad master cylinder? Correct me if I'm wrong, but definitely start at bleeding the brakes! Hopes this helps

Alright. So it was REALLY low on coolant. Put Dexcool in it to the full mark and let it take it in, then put more until it hit the full mark once more. Much better, it runs cooler and the heat actually works now. Haven't noticed a leak yet, but going to have the dealership track the leak down early tomorrow morning.

So..found out its bone dry on coolant. Really hoping its not a lemon...

So, mom traded her 1993 Nissan Quest in for a 2005 Dodge Caravan. So..everything is working great. I get home from work and decide to try everything out for her..and..nothing. No heat what so ever. Temp gauge is exactly between H and C and no heat. Same goes for the rear. Any ideas? I told her the Nissan was more reliable, even of the suspension had something knocking..

No blown fuses, and yes, we did a vacuum test on it, my bad. Did the test at school for 3 hours (i think it was set to -25psi) and the gauge never rose. I will say, since i have it wired across the terminals of where the relay plugs in, my A/C switch works, it just doesnt light up. It's obvious when it's on though.

Alright, so we drained everything out of the A/C and checked to see if it could hold pressure. It did. So it's getting warmer out do I figured I'd recharge it. So I did. It's at 25psi (coz it's 70F out) And..it still will not engage? I can jump it off at the relay (connecting two pins to the relay together) and it engages te compressor, and it comes out ice cold. Alright..so I've confirmed my A/C switch works. I've left it jumped off with a fuse between it. It works how it should, only the A/C light doesn't work. It works how it should, but..should I be convinced its a relay problem? Or something else? Thanks!

I'm a huge fan of the Z series by Nissan, especially the Nismo's.... That's where the NissanNismoZ sort of came from...

Is the noise like water dripping on metal? like a ting? If so that's just the oil from the lifters dripping down, it's common on any car i've been around. Check and listen to the lifters to be sure its that..

Fixed. Apparently my friends fog light he was wiring was wired up backwards.. So I replaced the fuse with a 15A again and cleaned up the wiring mess and tada! They work! And are extremely bright.. Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help!

The R50 center console is definitelybetter laid out, along with more options, making the original look like anafter thought, especially in the cupholder department. I went ahead and changedshifter boots (definitely an improvement on road noise, engine noise is reduced100%) I didn’t have the auto shifter from the R50, keeping my shifter, thus leaving agap. I filled in the gap with a leather shift boot wrapped around my autoshifter. If you don’t want the gap, and still want to keep your old shifter, remove theshifter indicator (4 bolts on each corner) and add longer screws with nuts onthe end, it’ll lift it up however high you need it. It will go from: to: Let’s start. You will need: Drill Drill bits (to drill holes for the e-brake) Ratchet set, basic Wiring Wiring connectors. - Start by removing the two bolts in the front, along with the bolt under thee-brake handle (under the removable cover) There are two more screws in the back, inside the arm rest. Mine had a LOT of gunk and I ended up just yanking it out, with the littleclamps on the bottom of the screws. No damage done, but I wouldn’t recommend it.If I remember, all bolts were 10MM. -Remove all your switches, taking care to NOT unplug them. Especiallythe fog light switch. -With the center console pulled out, continue to prepare the R50 console. -Place it in and make marks where the seat belts are, making a cut in theplastic (I made a 2X2 square) I would give the exact measurements, but considering its rounded at the back,you can decide where the best fit is. J -The E-brake will need to be moved 2” inches to the driver side. The R50e-brake opening is closer to the driver side. I fixed this by plugging theholes and drilling two more holes to re-mount the E-brake. *I also had to cut the bottom section out of where the ashtray mounts, as it made the console stick up too far (Its so deep because of amounting point, I removed it to sit flush.* *You will need to trim some of the corner of where the bottom left of the autoshifter meets the console (if you stuck with the WD21 shifter)* *If you are doing the auto shifter swap, do so now.* *If you are doing the 4X4 boot swap, do so now.* **The 4X4 shifter handle just twists off…** -Continue by tapping into the wiring of the existingcigarette lighter, running it under the carpet and into the connector for therear cigarette lighter on the R50 console. -Seat the console in where you want it, making marks onwhere to drill the holes to mount it. *I only mounted in two bolts in the front, as it sits so tight between theseats, I felt no need to bolt it in back there.* -Mount your switches into the R50 console, making sure theyall snap in securely. *My layout was: Fog light switch, Security switch, rear window release switch* *There is a gap under the dash console, you CAN fill that in with whatever youlike, I left it open as I can now place my power supply splitter there out ofthe way…* -If everything was successful, you nowhave a R50 console in your WD21 Pathfinder! If you have any problems feel free to contact me, ill be glad to help! I will say, this swap really goes well with the round dash WD21’s. But hey, you have 4 new cupholders and a rear power supply! I definitely recommend this swap. I know pictures would be better than text, but I can always take some ifneeded.

Aha. Found the fuse holder mentioned..and its blown! And keeps blowing...any ideas? The new lights are the same brightness as the original..i even bumped it up from a 15A to a 20A...

Yep! I'll add it to the picture thread here on a min, I'm on my phone so it'll be links for now, but it's not as hard as it is time consuming.. I just wish my fog lights worked now..