NissanNismoZ

Alright, so we drained everything out of the A/C and checked to see if it could hold pressure. It did. So it's getting warmer out do I figured I'd recharge it. So I did. It's at 25psi (coz it's 70F out) And..it still will not engage? I can jump it off at the relay (connecting two pins to the relay together) and it engages te compressor, and it comes out ice cold. Alright..so I've confirmed my A/C switch works. I've left it jumped off with a fuse between it. It works how it should, only the A/C light doesn't work. It works how it should, but..should I be convinced its a relay problem? Or something else? Thanks!

Is the noise like water dripping on metal? like a ting? If so that's just the oil from the lifters dripping down, it's common on any car i've been around. Check and listen to the lifters to be sure its that..

Fixed. Apparently my friends fog light he was wiring was wired up backwards.. So I replaced the fuse with a 15A again and cleaned up the wiring mess and tada! They work! And are extremely bright.. Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help!

The R50 center console is definitelybetter laid out, along with more options, making the original look like anafter thought, especially in the cupholder department. I went ahead and changedshifter boots (definitely an improvement on road noise, engine noise is reduced100%) I didn’t have the auto shifter from the R50, keeping my shifter, thus leaving agap. I filled in the gap with a leather shift boot wrapped around my autoshifter. If you don’t want the gap, and still want to keep your old shifter, remove theshifter indicator (4 bolts on each corner) and add longer screws with nuts onthe end, it’ll lift it up however high you need it. It will go from: to: Let’s start. You will need: Drill Drill bits (to drill holes for the e-brake) Ratchet set, basic Wiring Wiring connectors. - Start by removing the two bolts in the front, along with the bolt under thee-brake handle (under the removable cover) There are two more screws in the back, inside the arm rest. Mine had a LOT of gunk and I ended up just yanking it out, with the littleclamps on the bottom of the screws. No damage done, but I wouldn’t recommend it.If I remember, all bolts were 10MM. -Remove all your switches, taking care to NOT unplug them. Especiallythe fog light switch. -With the center console pulled out, continue to prepare the R50 console. -Place it in and make marks where the seat belts are, making a cut in theplastic (I made a 2X2 square) I would give the exact measurements, but considering its rounded at the back,you can decide where the best fit is. J -The E-brake will need to be moved 2” inches to the driver side. The R50e-brake opening is closer to the driver side. I fixed this by plugging theholes and drilling two more holes to re-mount the E-brake. *I also had to cut the bottom section out of where the ashtray mounts, as it made the console stick up too far (Its so deep because of amounting point, I removed it to sit flush.* *You will need to trim some of the corner of where the bottom left of the autoshifter meets the console (if you stuck with the WD21 shifter)* *If you are doing the auto shifter swap, do so now.* *If you are doing the 4X4 boot swap, do so now.* **The 4X4 shifter handle just twists off…** -Continue by tapping into the wiring of the existingcigarette lighter, running it under the carpet and into the connector for therear cigarette lighter on the R50 console. -Seat the console in where you want it, making marks onwhere to drill the holes to mount it. *I only mounted in two bolts in the front, as it sits so tight between theseats, I felt no need to bolt it in back there.* -Mount your switches into the R50 console, making sure theyall snap in securely. *My layout was: Fog light switch, Security switch, rear window release switch* *There is a gap under the dash console, you CAN fill that in with whatever youlike, I left it open as I can now place my power supply splitter there out ofthe way…* -If everything was successful, you nowhave a R50 console in your WD21 Pathfinder! If you have any problems feel free to contact me, ill be glad to help! I will say, this swap really goes well with the round dash WD21’s. But hey, you have 4 new cupholders and a rear power supply! I definitely recommend this swap. I know pictures would be better than text, but I can always take some ifneeded.

Aha. Found the fuse holder mentioned..and its blown! And keeps blowing...any ideas? The new lights are the same brightness as the original..i even bumped it up from a 15A to a 20A...

Yep! I'll add it to the picture thread here on a min, I'm on my phone so it'll be links for now, but it's not as hard as it is time consuming.. I just wish my fog lights worked now..

Alright. Did the R50 console swap, works great! In the process I unhooked my fog lights switch..and forgot the order. So I went through 6 fuses before finding the correct order. Alright, got the regular fogs in an working. So far do good. Couldn't mount them so I bought a new set. Wired them in before mounting, and good. Mounted them in and now they will NOT power on. Fog switch is illuminated, and as far as I know if a fog light blows a fuse, it'll take the fuse to the headlight with it. Any ideas? Fuses are good.. But the lights won't turn on now... Thanks! I'd really rather stick with stock wiring.. But..hopefully there's a fuse I may not know about? Thanks!

While we're on the topic of washing engine bays.... What are the do's and dont's? I really want to clean mine but everyone says leave your engine idling..why is that? Is there any harm in running it 50 ft to the hose and turning it straight off to wash the engine bay? or would i HAVE to leave it idling? Just wondering..thanks!

Didn't mean to give such a vague description..I was in a hurry to get to work and freaking out.. Anyway, I was washing the exterior..inside I meant the engine bay, which I never touched.. I thought it may have just been a loose spark plug cable..and it wasn't, I will note that before this happened it was running fine, I pulled it over to where the hose would reach, turned it off, washed it, moved it back to its spot and turned it off then got ready for work, and that's when it did it.. It may have been where I didn't let it complete it's warmup cycle twice in a row? It didnt do it once I got to work, I even turned it off then back on to see if it would, and it wouldnt.. The CEL never came on. Thanks guys!! I appreciate the help! If anyone has any ideas just drop them by! it just worried me a bit is all. It was stumbling and acting like it wanted to stall out.

Never washed the inside, just washed the outside, now Pathy is stumbling badly at idle..any idea?? It's kinda bad..

Oops..I read this too late I just took it out and put the new one in..it works great! So far anyway.. Thanks for the help everyone!

Ugh..you were right..its the solenoid on the starter, hitting it with the hammer and it turned over!.. 84.99 new (one year warranty) at advanced auto..looks like i have to bum some money out of my next paycheck.. It's a Worldwide brand starter (says the site) Remanufactured. Wish me luck! Thanks guys..i appreciate it!

Cleaned Battery posts (brand new battery, wasnt hard to do, cleaned my terminal clamps (a little dirty, but cleaned now) and now..i cant even get it do turn over..no matter how many times i try..so when it DID crank over before i did the cleaning..i used our snap-on starting/charging tester..and the results came out to: Battery: PASS Alternator: PASS Starter: PASS During starting voltage went from 12.68v to 11.64v Battery passed both load tests. So..shop teacher (ASE certified, also running his own shop..) said to start with the ignition switch..so ill try that?? I could have sworn i read somewhere about Pathfinders and intermittent start issues..any ideas? Thanks everyone!!

Boss waited to see if I could make it out of the parking lot..that was nice. After how much I brag about it they were all a bit surprised.. Again..got in it, turned the key, not a thing. Kept playing with the key and it turned over really really slow, then I kept trying and kept trying and turned over really fast as it used to and started right up. I've noticed the lights dim slightly like its trying to give power to it..but it's like the starter isn't getting the power.. I'm actually really scared now.. I'll have to check that stuff out in the morning..I'm screwed if it comes to a starter problem..

Also..isn't there a relay or something as well? Coz it acted like I'd turn the key but not to start..I'd turn it and nothing would change other than the sound of the fuel pump where voltage was being drawn, but yet, the starter wouldn't make a noise..it's like.. Sometimes I can get it to crank..it'll crank weak..then of I keep playing with it it'll crank over strong and turn right over..? Thank you!!