NissanNismoZ

Okay, so i have further information.. Today i got adventurous and thought id take the driver seat out.. so. I found out, i reconnect it by the main harness and..tada! it works!! I did more testing and came to the conclusion of, the alarm system does NOT like to be connected while the battery is being reconnected.. for some odd reason.. buut, its working and if anyone knows a way around this, just let me know!

LOL i hope you're joking and im not laughing at good advice.. anyway, as i figured, it's back!

In further news, someone recently told me about my rear speaker wires running beside the ECU could be causing interference and causing a CEL? It is odd that after having the radio off for a while, the CEL went off. BUT. im not saying this is the fix until i hit another 1000 miles with no CEL. Does anyone else agree this could cause interference? Or is the ECU too shielded for that? Thanks!

Hmmm..Try and note the different driving conditions compared to when it does it, and when it runs perfect.. 1.)Fuel pump, fuel pump relay (sticking?) 2.)When it keeps turning over and over, does it smell like fuel? Also, try and check for spark..if you have a multimeter, check and see that there is little to VERY LOW resistance in your spark plug wires.. 3.)Other than that im thinking a bad ground may be at fault.. 4.)Have you checked your ignition coil? 5.)Tach jumping..you mean the tach going haywire or just jumping normally when its starting? 6.)Could always check the plug to the dizzy and the coil.. 7.) If the contacts are dirty, clean the contacts on the inside of the dizzy cap and rotor, it may help as well! Hope this gets us closer to something! I figure these would be the easiest to check before getting into it too seriously unless its just your rotor button sticking..

That would be nice! But like..do they have the little red light on the dash itself? Like, say.. the light will look like a car with a door open.. Where is the hatch sensor? I've looked around and cant seem to find it.. I do know that i tried leaving the pathy's battery disconnected for 3 hours..and no luck.. (with the switch off) The hood pin switch is good, i even took a wire brush to clean the contacts Thanks

The flashing light DOES start flashing as soon as its reconnected.. 1) No, not even flash a light or anything. 2) No 3) No 4) Well..this one is sorta a no and a yes? When i reconnect the battery, it makes a quick beep. When i disco the battery..it takes a few seconds, then beeps Actually, i had the hood open when i reconnected the battery.. but id assume it would allow this? Not a bad idea, i'll try that now! Thanks for the reply!! It's really appreciated. BTW Do pathys have a door light on the dash? coz i've never seen one.. you'd think if my switches werent working my int. lights wouldnt work as well? My hatch sensor is kinda iffy..sometimes when i open it the light immediately comes on.. sometimes i have to open/close it twice or more to get the light to come on automatically..

Woo! Okay..i did it.. Here's the information i got: Pin 16 (Idle) .07v Pin 16 (2000 RPM) .10v Pin 17 (Idle) 13.17v Pin 17 (2000 RPM) 12.75v What exactly are pin 16 and 17? 16 seemed to act like the MAF (increases on throttle) 17 acted..odd. the harder i pushed on the pedal, the voltage went down?? Thanks everyone..i really appreciate the help!!!

Okay..so after an hour of looking through the FSM..i found out it was in the electrical foldout..and not the electrical section..heh. (You know what they say about assuming.....) So i'm supposing ill be pulling the seat tomorrow and checking to see what pins 16 & 17 say actually..i remember when i first started fixing the pathy (before i bought it) the ECU was laying there unbolted and unplugged...) last i remember there were a lot of extra plugs under there...are those just extras or something? I'll post more specific information on that tomorrow with a picture.. and im also no longer saying "my CEL is gone" until i get 500 miles of no CEL! it keeps getting my hopes up for no reason...

Yeah, checking the resistance works too.. heh. The ECU does control the timing on these, yes

How long has it been since you last changed your plugs/plug wires/dist cap and rotor button? If moisture gets under a dist. cap it will cause problems..so im thinking your dist cap has a bad seal or it could even be cracked? Moisture brings out the worst for electrical problem.. If its been about a year or longer id consider replacing the plugs, plug wires distributor cap and rotor button.. I'd say the best way to diagnose this as your problem is spraying WD-40 around your dist cap and plug ends, to displace the water! This is how im picturing it in my mind: Plugs and dizzy cap are wet when first started..as you go down the road, it dries them off eventually.. Puddles dont usually splash high enough to reach the plugs..i dont think, anyway..it depends on the size! As for the sensor that controls the choke..i dont think there is anything like that.. the closest thing i can think to that would be the Idle Air Control Valve.. which only controls your idle.. But i could be wrong! Just my idea, hope this helps!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovilOXDTK2c&feature=youtu.be here you go

so..would it be like.. 1357 2468 or.. 1234 5678? just wanting to get this right..thanks!!

Hmm..honestly the engine drives the same..i notice zero change in performance from when its running all day without a CEL and when it has a CEL..that's why im so confused.. Ill check all my connections at the ECU when im home.. coz its bothering me..even though im leaning toward a ground somewhere..

Good idea...only..im redoing mine..heh.

LOL i didnt hear the fart..and i dont remember being gassy! My bad, i typed that wrong.. All parts are bosch besides the NGK plugs..

I should have known that was way too easy.. CEL is back... -.- so.. I'm going to try to check the pins on the ECU, as mentioned..but..i dont know how you count them?? Even after the (over 40 miles now) of no CEL, it comes back, first thing when i start it up today.. Same codes as before..im leaning toward it really being the same problems..or..it being a bad ECU. (too expensive, so going to do diagnostics for now..) Thanks everyone!

hahahaha ill try it again o level ground then it actually, when kicked down it flies..hahaha..

Thanks!! just wanted an opinion to see where it stood.. it definitely does better with teh new MAF

I may need to do it at an even sloe, this was at a slight slope.. (also before i just put my new MAF sensor in..definitely a lot of improvement from the new one..) I bought all new bosch plugs wires cap and rotor when i bought it (not even 3k miles ago) I think the stuttering was the sound..where at did you notice it and ill be able to tell you.. Thanks for the feedback!

Okay..let me change that a bit.. so i found out how to clear my codes (i thought you had to disco the battery, then reconnect and drive..) so i clear them, start it up, go on a 30 mile drive, driving it extremely hard (nothing over 4k rpm though) and.. no codes! the CEL doesnt even come on when i first turn the key..maybe the new MAF fixed it? Will try what you said if the light comes on again..but until then..thanks everyone!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OV3fS8rd9MQ Just wondering if everything sounds okay in this video, such as, does it sound like there are any problems? I know the sound quality is horrible, it degraded a lot when i converted to AVI, but, thats the only way youtube would let me do it.. Thanks! This is the closest i can get to having another pathy owner drive mine to see about differences...

Spent 10$ on a MAF from a paths pathy..well... put it in, drove it until the CEL came on (only about a mile) checked the codes, and still throwing the same codes..so im guessing this means im looking into even deeper troubles..