Nefarious

I use Obx headers. About the collectors. They are 2" but there are two of them! That is ample flow for a 2.5" system. They would even suit a 3" exhaust system. You wouldnt want 2x 2.5" collectors. That would decrease efficiency and u would need like a 4" exhaust to suit it. Way too large. You do have to make your own y-pipe as it fits completely differently than the stock one. I moved the crossover behind the auto trans oil pan and header wrapped it for heat protection. They are great headers though and they sound bad ass.

35 mph/50 kmh is what the tag above behind my sun shade states.

That's how I do it too! Just be careful with the threads as they can scratch the sealing surface of the head.

Dude, that is slick. I am really digging this build. This is a very similar approach that I'm planning to take as well. Good job man, keep it up!

The only reason your idle is not in thst range is because u have something else wrong. I personally wouldnt mask a problem by just manually adjusting idle. Fix the problem that is making your idle fall out of spec and the ecu will do the rest. If you are trying to set an idle other than factory than go for it although its totally uneccessary. Proper way to change idle is to change the Target rpm value in the tune itself.

If your truck is running properly you don't need to adjust that screw!!! The ecu does set the idle. Its listed right in the factory specs in tunercode! You set target rpm and the ecu will adjust to whatever u set it to in the tune. its set to 700 +/- 50 from the factory. Changing this value in your bin file will change your rpm internally in yhe ecu. The ecu does set the idle. Adjusting iacv is a method i wouldnt do.

Tore out the ol ladys entire steering system. The new style lines wouldnt fit the old style steering box so I bored out the banjo ends to fit the large banjo bolts on the 92 steering box. Put in zero play 92 steering box. Putting the rest of the steering in this morning and then both our trucks have 2wd swaps

Machined another set of tie rod adjusters and put together a 2wd hardbody steering swap with moog centerlink/moog problem solver inner tie rods for my old ladys pathy. Came together beautifully, I'm installing it tomorrow for her christmas present

Adjusting idle VIA the IACV screw is not the proper approach, that's why its covered in epoxy, its set at the factory. If the truck is running properly the ecu will adjust the idle itself. Did you adjust the idle VIA the ecu idle adjustment first? Check for vacuum leaks and corroded/broken wiring. Your IACV/idle solenoid may have dirty connections or may be plugged with carbon. A good cleaning is all they usually need in my experience. 240sx and 300zx do the exact same thing.

Cost me around 11-14 for the damper pin, and around 15 for the damper. I remember it was about 30$ (Canadian) total

Last I checked Nissan only has a few oem damper pins left. I had mine ordered in from Japan at the local Nissan dealer. It was only about 11$ and then i just bought the damper from the parts store. It's all common metric nuts/bolts to attach it all up

Ah, didn't know cali even used special cats. Jeez. Crazy driving regulations there!

ive never drowned my wd yet (knock on wood). relocate the ecu to behind the glove box and you are good to go! the wd factory airbox is pretty decent for a factory seal.

Hmm I wasnt aware of the spray pattern differences in the injectors, that's good info. I'm not sure ka24 injectors would be ideal either then since it's a 12 valve engine. It utilizes 2 intake valves just like the ka24de. The difference is the ka24e has 1 exhaust valve and the ka24de has 2 exhaust valves per cylinder. One would think if both engines have 2 intake valves, they would both have a split spray pattern? I'll have to do some research into this now.

If you buy a weld-in magnaflow hiflow cat, you can get them even cheaper. when I built my exhaust system for the OBX headers I made it 2.5" all the way back and used a magnaflow hi-flow 2.5" weld in cat. I had it shipped to canada and in total it cost me 75$ after shipping! Great cat for the money, awesome performance as well. I definitely gained ponies from the exhaust but I did the whole system at once so the difference was much more noticeable, im sure. Still a great replacement for a worn out old stock cat.

The fsm is wrong, its for a rhd vehicle. Always start with the longest line and work your way to the shortest. That is the proper way to do it. The fsm also says you have to remove the whole front suspension to pull the engine and that is just untrue.

If you check courtesy parts database, there is only one MC listed for all pathfinders 88-95. They list the same part whether its discs or drums. Looks like the older multiple options have been superseded by the singular MC.

Exactly, good post. Thats why I'm going to use n60 maf, 260cc ka24 injectors and an ecu tune to dial it in perfectly. It will definitely be worth the effort if you want to make your vg as efficient as possible.

Signal wires are getting electromagnetic interference. Isolate the signal lines with foil shielding and from any power wires in the area. As a rule of thumb I separate signal wires from power wires by at least 12" and use twisted shielded rcas

You can do that too! Just repin the ecu plug (may need the m30 pigtail) to match the m30 ecu to the pathfinder harness. Then you just need the maf and ecu from an m30 or a maxima . They are very similar but even better ecus than the pathfinder ecu. If you use the latest ostrich it doesn't matter though as it bypasses the differences between the three ecus (consult equivalent and data logging) and makes them all equal. It is easier to get started though since your maf curves and VQ tables will already be there. It's easy enough to snag the maf data from one vehicle to the next so its not a big issue.

A 1.97" (thanks precise1) diameter restriction in your intake pipe on a 3.3l engine with cams, and supporting breather mods(intake/exhaust) is NOT adequate. On a stock vg30e maybe it was beneficial but not on a modified vg33e. I am confident I will see gains by upgrading to a larger maf with my setup. Proof will be the numbers on the dyno before and after. I am interested in ejins idea too, would be easier the just swap a maf but tuning after is what ties all the mods together so swapping to the n60 would be a lot less time consuming and would cut the headache factor down getting it dialed in. If you get it working without tuning i will be seriously impressed!

when you look at maf values in tuning software, its a non-linear curve for just about every Nissan maf that I have looked at, which makes it difficult to duplicate but not impossible. when I get home I can open up nismotronic and check what the maf values are for the n60 or n62 maf but it doesn't have a pathfinder maf pre-programmed. just the main ones tuner/turbo setups will use. any other vg30e equipped vehicle uses the n60 maf aside from the pathfinder. maxima and m30 are both n60 mafs with the vg30e stock.

It's not the fact there's a maf, its the size of the maf inner diameter and flow path. The stock pathy maf restricts down to under 2" diameter and the element is seperate from the flow path in a second chamber. The maxima (n60) maf is closer to 3" diameter and the element is inside the flow path so it measures more accurately. With a modified 3.3 engine, increasing the size of the maf will definitely improve performance as long as its tuned for. I'm curious if ejin can get it working without a tune but it would be quite tricky to get it right with a custom built maf and no tune. I know some of the 240sx guys go from 260cc to 370cc injectors and switch from stock 240sx maf to n60 maf and since the maf reads the same amount lean as the injectors run rich. The setup actually balances out and runs the car okay but its not ideal. Worth looking into using slightly larger injectors to balance out the increased lean read of the maf from being over sized. This is the only way I can see it working without a tune.