WarehouseRat

what manifold did you use and got any pics of the fab work done to said mani

should make a good base map for others to follow suit and post it up since your kinda pioneering the way, i may dip back in to f/i engines again and the vg has a ton of potentual, that turbo is way to small i can say that must, ditch the divider in the manifold it will help with spool-time, a little larger bar and plate type fmic would make a big difference and needed for a larger turbo ie t3/t4 .68 ar or a gt 35, pathfinder would probibly work better with a efan swap and make for routing up pipe and inter cooler piping in front of the engine, if a person were to make up a fuel rail system to run top feed injectors we could run 450cc "Bluetop" DSM injectors, hell they can be bought for 45 a set or free from the JY lol they are also a high impedence inj., my hat goes off to you sir you have opened the eye of many, you may wanna think about putting together a MS ecu to market that has a base map on it, as i know for fact a few of my older friends have made a @!*% ton of money with ecu/tuning

no need to be rude man if you used the grey key blank in the doors it will break off it made from softer brass we're only trying to help now go take your bs problem to a locksmith

smoke machines are used for more then just a/c i have one and they work great for finding vacuum leaks, you can buy them online but they run about 400-500 for a good one

check the air tube for cracks

go buy the blank from the stealership and take it into the locksmith there are 2 different color blanks one is black and one is grey the grey is the ignition key blank and the black is the lock blank

key codes are entered by the manufacture before the car is delivered to the dealerships, so the last call to the dealer is full of @!*% if you have an issue take the pathy to a lock smith and they can easily cut you keys in less then 20 minutes

did it run rough before you did the mini tune-up, ifit ran fine before i would say check the proper locations if plug wires and make certain you set the timming correct my money is on the timing due to the cat over heating due to fuel not being burned correctly

the extra bare metal is a sheilding for the maf wire harness just tuck it into the plastic covering and tape over with electrical tape to seal the opening, as for your drivability issue running rough is a pretty broad discription need to be more discriptive, none of what you did will fix whats wroung you have a worn ignition part/s ie wires,plugs etc.

Ok as a ex ASE/ASA certified master tech i say take the hit if you ignore the problem it will only get worse ie saturate the friction plate and warp the flywheel due to clutch slipage, i say pull the tranny fix the rear main, and resuface flywheel and replace the clutch/TB/PB/ output shaft seal while your there, also check any softplugs while the tranny is out, also easier to replace any bad ex. manifold studs, i would do this repair for 600 just for the labor

post a few pic and a video if possible but its pretty normal for a little whistling from the intake system stock or aftermarket, look at the T/B make sure its clean as well, a little build up makes alot of difference in drivabiltiy and mpg

fmic for the win add a efan for added cooling or methanol or even cryo spray bars, super clean bro nice build i wanna see some street pulls on dumb street racers lol now that would be classic and funny at the same time

so would a d44 out of a 76 cheerokee chief work for a sas axle for the from of my 95 the gears are 3.54

sometimes you can change the alarm mode with the key in the drivers door lock, you mentioned that you have to unlock it from the passenger side, why? if there is any issue with the alarm circuits it might not do anything, is the driver's side door lock or handle broke in anyway, when i told you it could be in valey mode it was only a guess it may be a alarm malfuntion indicator when it flashed like you say it does, mine only flashed when it armed, i can disarm it with the key in the ignition and auto arms after i close the last door after 30 seconds, the siren missing isnt helping either get any siren and it will work there all the same how they hook up just the sound is different sorry for my grammer skills lol its a keyboard not a wrench

put 12v directly to the motor see if it spins if not then dig deeper like the resistor being burnt, you may beable to have the brushes replaced but clue less as were to look for replacment brushes

unplugging seems kinda difficult with the upper plenum in place, and pulling the distributor seems kinda silly since you would need to retime the engine, are there and fsm here to download as i havent seen any yet

what did you pay for the new joints

code 51 injector curcuit any clues as to what may be a common issue or cause

sending unit

Resistor is a likely cause you need a meter test it, may even be a bad plug. You maybe able to repair it with a comarable resistor from radio shack if your handy with a soldering iron

removed and cleaned the T/B and egr port feed tube which was all plugged up and i mean completely lol carbon filled my hand when i was done, even cleaned the upper plenum camber, which i might add has a huge area of improvement possible with a port match and polishing as there are huge amount of casting flaws and excessive amounts of casting texturing that would make for better mpg and drivability and throttle response. I will post up a report and pics when i get around to the lifters and throw a cam and a set or stiffer valve springs and a set of ross cam gears and full exhaust w/headers if funds allow and take it to my buddies dyno for a number crunch, may even do it in steps to see what each mod does for gains as a way for people to help decide what mods they want to persue first The air intake made a huge difference, also hear good things about the ignition mods being a good one

under the thrittle/ cruse cable is a a bracket that bolt to the bottom of the cable mount it has 2 12mm bolt in it remove and twist the bracket out this is the egr feed port it gets blocked with carbon very heavly, might as well remove the T/B as well and clean the T/B and all the carbon clumps from the egr feed port from inside the plenum, this was the cause of my emission problems just as your are

save the 35 for the sas and a skinnyier tire does better in the nasty stuff

pics are down on the last few post

Its called parasitice loss.