WarehouseRat

master cylinder res float switch is sticking and lets loose after some heat soaks in check you booster line as well there is a one way check valve make sure it is working correctly blow through it one way ( toward the booster) and nothing the other way(toward the engine).

ah bs lol get a stage 2 clutch and tune it for a higher boost level 11 psi is for kindergardeners lol thats actually good it shows that there is a lot left you just need to tune to get it, im betting you could almost hit 23 psi, but you might wanna think about a set of je forged pistons first.... read the signature it tells all lol

i feel nothing with my a/c running i can hear the compressor cycling at idle

only if the console switch is in the on position, if the light in the switch comes on then the only other part of the system after the switch is the relay then the light it self

here's a hint "condensation"

there should be a relay on the fire wall both leads run directly to the lights if the switch in the console lights up then the relay is getting power but its burnt out

even new battery's get dead cells if its a new good battery it should have a voltage higher then 13 volts, bad batterys can make all kinds of issues

yah 750+lbs of extra weight makes a huge difference lol

ebay you can get a set of 4 procomp My link

go to an external w/g internals have a history of boost creep which leads to a lean spike and can cause detination, i would try to get it on a dyno so you can do some hard 4th gear pulls and blow the fuel/igniton maps up and see whats happening under heavy load get your a/f ratio down for what ever boost level you want then take it to the street and see what real world driving looks like in the data log sessions, try to keep the duty cycle below %80 and bring up the a/f to 12.0-12.5, 11 is kinda dangerous to tune with out a detination monitor of some sort

my understanding is they are the same rig just different names and motor options

if it sat in standing water far any length of time i would check the tranny and tranfer case fluids for water/etc just to be safe axles should be fine breathers are high enough

alot of tuning to be done by that data log session, are you using any knock monitoring device if not i'm certain you could up the boost and gain alot of power and get the rpm more in line with working boost pressures, are you doing this tuning on the street or a dyno?

i've gotten mid twenty's once thats pretty adverage really, thats what i get now, non-stop driving makes a huge difference with mileage on these suv's did the gas light come on at all if not then you had almost 2 gallons of fuel left

sorry to hear about your pain but yes it does its a spark just like when you weld just not as intense add ceramic with a 3K*+ melting point and its even brighter, grind titanium and watch the show lol do not grind magnesium it will catch on fire and you cant put it out even under water visine and sleeping help it pass the easiest

nope lol those are the mode codes ie mode 1 mode 2etc etc wait till you see both leds flash 3 times then turn the knob all the way clockwise then write the flashes down first flash means tens the second flashes are the ones which corespond to a tdc code

condesation drip hose for the ac coil

dude sue the repair garage as im certain they are the ones behind it getting messed up in the first place, if that wire is cut the oil light in the dash will not come on, my guess is they didnt check the filter stub on the block and it was lose and it allowed the filter to come off or allowed it to be crooked, dude fine tha cut wire i promise a victory in court as the wire would prove they had knowledge of the filter being incorrectly installed and they covered it up by disabling the oil warning system

in your case yes

thats mite help with figuring out which waffers do what

only a few of the tuberlers/wafer are used for the lock and/or ignition hence one key working for all key opens you may get all like wafers/tublers the same but its not needed yah there maybe lots of variations of wafers but there really is only a few dozen varitions used at least thats how gm, ford, dodge, honda,audi did it for years all of which i have worked for,the key area of the auto industry manufacture try to carry a common keying type so locksmiths can rekey vehicles, as of just oh say 10 yrs ago manufactures started adding security chips with encrypted codes that shake hands with the emc/ecu and allow it to start, then there are the lazer cut keys with/w/o chips easy to cut if you have the machine for it, but the chips need programming (ie audi) by the manufacture and they only do it if you have a title in hand, audi wouldnt do it for a third party repair faciltiy for anything, its a money thing.....sorry for the rant on automotive key trivia lol and i can say every manufacture has a master key for every model, I can't say for ferarri or lambo or any other of the like as those have crystals in them... as for which wafer work what funtionie lock or ignition you would need rekeying fsm from the dealer and they only sell those to lisenced/bonded locksmiths noth cheap either i mangaged to get a old gm one and i still paid 500 for it.... and again sorry for crappy keyboard grammer its not a wrench..... ok thats going to be my signature

Well then you just have a mess and oil usage to contend with, as there wont be a issue with clutch system.

lol there is one in the design lol right next to the air pump, although you could add a gauge after the valve to monitor the air pressure accuratly

only bs after you were rude "sounding", clearly your having issues and your reply to me was not warranted i was not rude to you, and was only tring to help with good info about the key blanks, and really who cares how much a person is on a forum and post, doesnt take away from the fact you acted like a a-hole to someone that tried to help you, not the way to make friends, and why is it people on forums thinks its ok to type like freakin idiots to people when they try to help and they just dont get it, oh and to anwser your question only part of the wafers are used for the lock and the others are used for the ignition, the key isnt working corectly due to the wafers being worn from using the wrong key blank ie the black blank, nissan's secret to make ignitions wear out lol that and people having to much weight on there keychains

here you go a diy smoke machine you need to be able to control the air pressure