Towncivilian

EL-159

What is the color of the trans fluid? Does it smell burnt? Has the ever been changed?

Oh yes, I'm seeing the mobile version on my phone so I don't see his signature. I'll ask Alkorahil in his giant thread if Nissan still sells the OEM guards.

Look near the throttle actuators, you can see them in the pic. The valve will be there, covered by a hose of course.

I don't see a picture. Do you happen to have a part number for the brush guard?

I think the brake, battery, and A/T OIL TEMP (if equipped) will light up if your alternator is dying. If you haven't changed the brake fluid within the past two years, it wouldn't hurt to do so since brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture over time, lowering the boiling point of the fluid. Changing it every 2 years is a reasonable time interval. For WD21s, the brake bleeding order is: 1. LSV air bleeder (Models equipped with LSV) 2. Left rear brake 3. Right rear brake 4. Left front brake 5. Right front brake 6. R-ABS actuator (Models equipped with R-ABS) I'm pretty sure WD21s don't have LSVs, only D21 (Hardbodies), so ignore that.

Here's the PCV valve: I would replace it with a new OEM one only. It's easy to swap out, unlike the VQ35DE which has it buried under the upper and lower intake manifolds. That was a PITA.

See NTB96-080. Nissan has a TSB warning against use of aftermarket grille guards because they may affect airbag operation in a crash.

Have you ever changed the PCV valve?

I bought a MityVac from Harbor Freight and it sucked (no pun intended). It was worthless, kept getting bubbles sucked through somewhere. I resorted to the two man method instead, no bubbles.

I think it is standard practice for any dealer or shop to clean out a transmission cooler when doing a rebuild or replace of a transmission, to help prevent any old debris from damaging the new/rebuilt transmission. If the cooler can not be cleaned sufficiently, it is supposed to be replaced. See the TSB Precise1 linked above. Hell, it wouldn't hurt to clean the cooler every 100k miles or so, or when doing a full fluid exchange or something... and it would definitely be a great idea to do if you plan on retaining the stock cooler when installing an auxiliary cooler.

The LSV is the load sensing valve. You can find it above your rear diff. I guess you'd bleed it just like a caliper or wheel cylinder. You need to bleed this first, then the left rear, right rear, left front, right front according to the FSM.

Yeah, I never understood how that tube can get clogged. It seems implausible. Improper maintenance of the transmission is generally to blame, not a clogged cooler.

This thread on NICOclub may be a helpful read if you decide to convert any other interior lighting to LED. Good luck!

BA9s is map lights DE3175 is the dome and cargo area lights

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-9-led-tower/9/

Have you tried changing the fuel filter and cleaning the MAF? I've read anecdotes where this has helped shifting, oddly enough.

If it sludged easily it wouldn't be API certified in the first place.

I just bled my brakes and my pedal is LOW. My helper must have let go of the pedal before I closed the bleeder screw, so we gotta bleed them again the right way this time. I would bleed the brakes again as the other guys said.

I doubt any Nissan auto doesn't have a drain plug. Except maybe some of the newer stuff like 7-speed A/Ts in the G37 that have a check plug and no dipstick and a "lifetime fill" of fluid and all that other nonsense... Tube-and-fins are less efficient than stacked plate type coolers, so you may wish to look into getting a stacked plate cooler down the road at some point. A B&M 70268 will fit a WD21 without any clearance issues and it's rated for 19k GVW.

Are you going to put an auxiliary cooler or in-line filter on? Thanks for all the pictures, very interesting!

Rear bearings are within the diff I think?

Great! You're quite welcome. The filter will prevent the evaporator core from clogging up with debris, and those things are hard to access in order to clean. And of course you'll be breathing in less junk!

My family has had it for at least 12 years since new, just passed 137k miles yesterday. No doubt it'll make it 200k easy.

Inspect your radiator cap following this TSB. Replace with a new OEM one if necessary.