Towncivilian

Make sure you use a 5% discount code if you order from RockAuto.

I use Torque ($5 Android app) with a generic ELM327 ODB-II Bluetooth reader found on eBay to generate logs. I've got quite a few and they're kinda messy Excel spreadsheets, if you still want them I can zip them up and upload them somewhere I guess. If you replace any gaskets, you always want to make sure the mating surfaces are clean and free of significant defects. Other than that, adhere to torque specs and tightening procedures and you shouldn't have any problems. Sorry, I don't know about transfer case seals. A vacuum bleeder would speed up the process. Be sure you follow the bleeding order of your '96, which is: For 1996-1997 models: 1. LSV air bleeder (Models equipped with LSV) 2. Left rear brake 3. Right rear brake 4. Left front brake 5. Right front brake Bleeding the clutch MC is the same procedure as a brake caliper or wheel cylinder. I've got some Gunk engine degreaser sitting in my garage but never really used it yet. Simple Green is a pretty good degreaser. Factory fill P/S fluid at your mileage contains break-in wear (in addition to the normal wear of the system) and crud left over from the manufacturing process, which can hasten the demise of seals and such I'd think. If it is leaking, you can try something like Valvoline MaxLife ATF to possibly slow or stop the leak. I would use a turkey baster or suction gun to siphon out the fluid in the P/S reservoir and refill. Do this several times with a couple days of driving in between until you go through two quarts of ATF, then siphon & fill once every oil change. As for fluids: Transfer case: any synthetic ATF as long as it meets Dexron III or VI Brake / clutch fluid: I use Valvoline DOT3 and DOT4 Synthetic Brake Fluid (misnomer, all brake fluid is synthetic) Power steering fluid: Valvoline MaxLife (to hopefully slow or stop any leak you might have) You can find torque specs and fluid capacities in this thread at NICO. Try running some Chevron Techron in your gas tank. Use the bigger 20oz bottles. Run a couple tanks back-to-back with Techron; pour it in before fueling. Are you sure your SES bulb isn't burnt out? Turn the ignition to "ON" and it should light up. Tire pressures all good?

Tighten valve cover screws, check if steering rack & tcase are really leaking, engine oil color means nothing (how long ago was it replaced?). You can bleed your clutch master cylinder yourself, use any DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and bleed it every year or two from then on. Done the brake fluid ever? Page EC-23 has fast idle cam adjustment procedure, but your shop probably did that already. You're right that there is no relearn procedure, my bad. Adjust accelerator & cruise cables if there's any slack, see FE-3 and EL-175 respectively (this won't affect idle but is a good idea to do regardless). Was the idle air control valve cleaned in addition to the throttle body? I don't think you're having any cold idle issues, mine starts at 1.6k or so (I really did misremember, 2.2k would be ridiculous) and slowly gets down to 750ish as temp goes up. I don't have a log of cold start -> operating coolant temp from sitting idle though so any graph I can make would be useless I think.

It might not have been 2.2k exactly, maybe 1.5ish is closer. My memory is kind of fuzzy at 2:30 am.

My VQ35 starts with a 2.2k idle and gradually lowers to 650-800 range as coolant temp rises. I can provide exact data later from OBDII logs if necessary. Try following the idle relearn procedures in your year's EC section of the FSM.

Brake fluid? I hope you mean brake cleaner!

Next time you get a code, try having AutoZone or any other parts store that reads codes free pull the codes. You might get a result then.

If the airbag diagnostic system had a stored code, the airbag light would be constantly on or flashing. But who said anything about the SRS system?

VQ35DE Pathfinders don't have engine grounds at the top of the engine like VG33s do. See this picture for their location

Don't run tap water through the radiator if you can help it, as it may contain deposits that will be harmful to a cooling system. Always use distilled or demineralized water during a cooling system service or top off.

Screw the Chilton / Haynes manuals, download the entire factory service manual here. To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate.

Your name means cabbage in Russian Also, WD21s have a frame, not a subframe like a unibody vehicle. Otherwise I have nothing to add, sorry.

I don't know, my RMS was first replaced by Nissan at 1720 miles (!) so there is a possibility of something being wrong. Why it failed again I've no idea, the oil & filter has been serviced regularly throughout the vehicle's lifetime and my engine is spotless, with no oil consumption and all power valve screws are present and were tight when I applied red threadlocker. I guess if it goes bad again I'll know I have a deeper problem... enough OT from me though.

It's a weep hole, not a hose. If it's leaking your only option is to replace the water pump. The timing belt is internal and there is a guide in the Garage section of the forum I believe. I don't recall the change interval of the TB at the moment.

I can't quite tell from the picture, is coolant leaking out of the water pump weep hole? I'm not sure how the procedure goes for water pump replacement, the FSM is very vague. Page LC-7 of the factory service manual has an exploded parts view, FWIW.

He said he has two aux coolers and bypassed the stock cooler.

Given the relative difficulty to access, I'd just go with a Nissan part. Then again, I haven't had the best of luck with rear main seals on my Pathfinder - see my post on NICOclub with pictures of my damaged RMS. I still am puzzled how the damage to the seal occurred.

I've heard of supposed flush chemicals, but you have to remember that they wouldn't be in the transmission for very long assuming the shop opted to use, and even then, is there that much crap adhered to internal components to potentially cause issues? It's not like transmission fluid is exposed to the conditions engine oil sees - there's no blow-by, carbon build up, fuel dilution, etc. If a flush chemical was used, I highly doubt it did any harm. Also, be aware that no shop does a "power flush". I've never actually seen or heard of any shop having a machine that forces fluid through a transmission at a high pressure. Transmission fluid exchanges use the transmission's own pump and the machine used is simply a bladder for new and old fluids with adapters for the transmission cooler lines for proper connections. Even later versions of Nissan's own factory service manuals recommend a similar procedure to the one I posted above for a full transmission fluid exchange. I strongly think a full fluid exchange should be done first. If issues still persist, then perhaps do a pan drop & filter change to see if anything significant is wrong. If everything seems fine after just a full fluid exchange, install a Magnefine and do drain & fills every 15-30k and change the Magnefine every 30k from now on.

The in-pan strainer is a rock catcher, if it's catching anything your trans is almost certainly doomed. I would leave it be personally.

I'd suggest a full fluid exchange to begin with. You can do this in your driveway. You will need: 12 to 15 quarts of automatic transmission fluid, preferably Nissan Matic D A clear gallon jug, something like an empty milk jug Another large container to store used fluid for disposal 1. Disconnect the transmission cooler return line and secure it in a collection bucket such as a clear gallon milk jug. This will be the hose on the passenger side of the vehicle; disconnect the end leading towards the transmission. 2. Have a helper start the car while you watch the bucket - once it's half full (2 quarts), yell for the helper to stop the engine. 3. Add 2 quarts of ATF through the transmission dipstick. 4. Drain collection jug into larger jug (i.e. a Disposoil - these only hold 10 quarts though in my experience, so have something else to hold the last 5 quarts). 5. Repeat steps 2-4 until you're out of ATF. 6. Check fluid for proper level (see the next question and answer for details), and recycle the old ATF. Any place that takes used oil will likely recycle ATF. A Magnefine in-line transmission filter on the transmission cooler return line is also highly recommended. The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous.

Have you changed the fluid since the rebuild? There's probably crud from the rebuild process as well as possible break-in wear of any new components floating around in the fluid, which is bad. Do you have an auxiliary in-line cooler and/or an in-line transmission filter? How does the fluid look and smell right now?

Pathfinder MAFs for VQ35DEs are $442, but you can use a $90 Maxima MAF without issue.

Use MAF cleaner spray only as other chemicals may damage the MAF. I don't know how it is on WD21s, but R50s have the MAF secured by 2 T20 Torx bits (sometimes tamper-resistant T20 Torx bits with the hole in the middle of the screw). Remove the negative battery terminal before disconnecting the MAF harness.

See this article on radio removal. After you've done that, remove the four Phillips screws holding in the manual HVAC unit, push it toward the front of the car slightly, down and out so you can access the bulb twist bases.

Bon Ami and a wet sponge?