Towncivilian

96-97 D21 trans also has the corrected fill hole location. This post has more info about using a newer manual trans.

Loosen and retighten engine ground screws: I found no TSBs relating to this issue. The FSM lists these possible causes: Harness or connectors Rear heated oxygen sensor Fuel pressure Injectors Intake air leaks So, check for intake air leaks and run a 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron in the gas. You can check the resistance of the ECTS; reference values are on EC-103 and the harness location is a few pages down.

See page TF-5 of the FSM, it is basically as easy as you state.

What brand thermostat & radiator cap? Did you test the thermostat in a pot of boiling water before installation?

Did you reuse the old rad cap or use a new one?

Check the TF section of the factory service manual if you haven't yet, maybe it'll have a useful diagram.

Stuck caliper(s)? Remove the slide pins, clean old lube, lubricate with Syl-Glide.

I have one for an '01, but more than likely the fuse arrangement is different than your '96's. The FSM has a diagram of the fuse box, but it is idiotically unlabeled and to find a specific fuse's purpose you'd need to search the EL section of the FSM for the fuse number, and this is very difficult unless you feed the '96 FSM through OCR to make it searchable. Hopefully someone else has a 96-00 and will post a pic, those years should all be very similar in terms of the fuses.

Can someone mirror it on Mediafire, Dropbox, etc? I don't want to install Pando.

Your clock spring is at fault if your horn, cruise, and steering wheel controls (if applicable and working) have stopped working. Page RS-9 has instructions on the clock spring's removal. It's a very expensive part if I recall, so try to get one from a junkyard. As for the ABS light, pull ABS codes by following page BR-44 of the factory service manual and post the results here. Don't know about the odometer, sorry.

Sensor 2 is the rear oxygen sensor. What is the specific code? It might just be the sensor's heater element being faulty, it might not necessarily be an issue with your emissions system or engine operation. The upstream oxygen sensor would detect any engine issues.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/post5166463.html#p5166463 You will need to drain the oil. Just leave the oil filter on there if it's relatively new and refill with oil.

Is your service engine soon light illuminated? The thermostat is not difficult to access; see steps on page LC-10 of the factory service manual. I would only use an OEM part for its replacement. Test it by boiling it in a pot of water (see inspection steps on that same page for details) before installation.

Be sure you change the fluid after installation and change it regularly (every 30k miles or so). I would use Nissan Matic D only.

In the bottom of the radiator. Leave it alone and add a B&M 70264 cooler in-line with it. I'd also highly suggest adding an in-line transmission filter like a Magnefine. The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous. You'll need a 3/8" size Magnefine. You can see one that I ran for 13k miles on my own Pathfinder then opened here. My previous info about the driveshaft grease fittings is incorrect. Only the front driveshaft will have a grease fitting on 4WD Pathfinders. Sorry for the confusion.

Here's one on NICO which I wrote and is in my opinion more thorough than the one on NPORA. If you'd prefer the one on NPORA, here it is.

I would not bother with either Seafoam or MMO in the gas and just use BG44k or Techron for fuel system cleaning. Use a foaming cleaner to clean the intake as I said above, and don't put anything at all in your engine oil (or any other lubricant for that matter). If you insist on using MMO, use 4oz per 10 gal of gas. If you use too much it'll run like crap.

Would the bellhousing be the same even though pre-facelift R50s have VG33Es? How about using FS5R30A from 96-97 D21 w/ VG30, as those have the corrected fill hole location and presumably the same bell housing?

Thanks for clearing that up Rob. I'm running Castrol Import Multi Vehicle and get a shift flare from 1->2 sometimes. My R50 is too new to be affected by the TSB, so I can only chalk it up to the fluid. I'll get around to replacing all the fluid with Matic D next time I do a pan drop & filter change (using OEM parts), in about 15k miles. That'll be the last pan drop I ever do on this vehicle.

It's supposed to make a distinct line. If it's scattered like that it probably isn't at the correct level. I'd add half a quart and measure again.

I would suggest doing a transmission cooler line exchange to change all of the fluid at once. I would use Nissan Matic D only. You can find steps on the method in this thread on NICOclub under the Transmission & driveline Q&A section. There is a strainer in the transmission pan, but it generally doesn't get clogged with anything because it's more like a rock catcher than a fine filter. You shouldn't need to change it I think.

Matic C? Is that a typo? Also, I've read of no TSB that states that Matic D is out of date and Matic J, K, or S have been back-spec'd for transmissions specifying Matic D. What's the TSB number?

If Nissan knew rough shifting would be an issue with non-Matic D fluids, why would they specify Dexron III a suitable substitute in the FSM (and only for Canada, no less?)

Check the transmission fluid level. 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt. Your dipstick may look different, just ensure it's within the area marked "HOT". Have you ever changed the fluid?

Check the transmission fluid level. 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt. Have you ever changed the fluid?