Towncivilian

The fuel level sending unit could be affected by sulfur build up, leading to an inaccurate fuel gauge. I don't see why it couldn't affect the low fuel indicator as well. Chevron Techron has been reported to clean sulfur build up and fix inaccurate or stuck fuel gauges. Try the 20oz bottle in your next tank. Even if it doesn't fix the malfunctioning indicator, it will effectively clean your fuel system since it contains PEA (polyether amines) which clean without leaving deposits of its own behind like solvent based cleaners. On another note, the low fuel indicator does not illuminate with ignition set to ON on R50s.

I thought this was unnecessary on R50s since the headlights are relayed already? Or is the stock wiring still marginal, and an upgraded harness would still be beneficial? Headlight harnesses are a common upgrade for WD21s since those headlights are not relayed.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/forum/67-r50-faqs-pinned-topics/

Check the hoses around the charcoal canister in the rear driver's side of the vehicle, some might be clogged. When you refuel, never "top off" or overfill the gas tank, always stop at the first click. Overfilling will cause excess fuel to enter the charcoal canister and will irreparably damage it over time.

It seems that no year's owners manual or service manual say anything about the cabin filter. Just remove the glove box and see if you can add one or one is already present.

Welcome to NPORA. Don't bother with anything higher than 87 octane, the engine won't make use of it as it can't advance timing enough. Also, why both Techron and Seafoam? Techron alone will suffice. Download the 1989 FSM here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/hardbody/d21_truck_1989.pdf (right click -> save as, it's 112MB) Try pulling codes from the ECU, there might be a code even if the CEL isn't lit: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/

If you haven't yet, you should plan to install an auxiliary cooler as well as an in-line filter.

Hm, you're right, there might not be. Looking at the Courtesy Parts site, it says the in-cabin microfilters are for 1999.5 - 2004 Pathfinders and the scans of the installation instructions I provided above say 98 - 01. Only way to find out is to take a look. It doesn't take long to remove the glove box.

Doesn't matter if you have it or not from the factory, you can add them easily: http://www.courtesyparts.com/instruct/inst_B7200-00003_01.html

Don't bother. There are also better products than Seafoam for fuel system cleaning, the threads linked above have details. I don't feel like typing it out again.

This is '89, but it might be the same: http://www.nicoclub...._truck_1989.pdf It's a 112MB PDF, so you may wish to right click -> save as. See page EF & EC-18.

Throttle body cleaner spray.

NICOclub reviews 2013 Nissan Pathfinder If Nissan called it something other than the Pathfinder, it'd be a winner. It doesn't seem like a bad vehicle, it just has the wrong name.

Based on bubbles in the overflow tank and white smoke from the exhaust, you'd appear to have a head gasket problem for sure. Inspect the radiator cap according to this TSB and replace with a new OEM one if necessary. I seriously doubt this will make a difference, but it doesn't hurt to rule it out. Page EM-21 of the factory service manual tells you how to gain access to the cylinder head. I don't have any other advice since I don't have any first-hand experience with your problem or gaining access to the head gasket, sorry. Welcome to NPORA.

Really clogged fuel filter? Even if it isn't it's a good thing to change fairly often (every 2 years or so).

Ethanol in gas prevents most cases of water in the fuel. Also swap the fuel pump relay with another of the same color, maybe fog light or A/C relay. Could be a faulty relay.

Overtightening a battery terminal can crack or damage the battery case around the post, which leads to constant corrosion. The only fix for that would be to replace the battery. Make sure the other ends of the battery terminals are clean first, though.

Unless you have a hole in your floor or firewall or something like that, it sounds like the only other possibility would be a malfunctioning vent. Run the self-diagnosis I linked above to find out.

Why do you think you need to run Seafoam in the crankcase? Do you have some nasty noise, poor performance, etc? For fuel system cleaning, there are more effective chemicals than Seafoam. FSCs that contain polyether amines (PEA) like Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, Redline SI-1, CRC Guaranteed To Pass, etc are proven to clean effectively without leaving deposits of their own like solvent based cleaners such as Seafoam do.

Check the Pathfinder for milkshake in the trans or nasty colored coolant. See here for more info.

R50s do not have cats built in to the exhaust manifolds, they are in-line with the exhaust pipe. You can see the cats surrounded by heat shields at the front of the exhaust system.

You can run HVAC self-diagnosis described on HA-39 to rule out a malfunctioning vent door.

Feel carefully around the transmission tunnel on both sides after driving, is it excessively hot? What is the color and smell of the transmission fluid? Check for exhaust leaks too, if there is one it could be venting hot exhaust near the floor area where your feet are. Do you have automatic HVAC controls?

Today I replaced my driver door exterior handle since the old one had a broken spring. A small PITA, but since I've attempted it before it wasn't as challenging. I also lubed the power window regulator with some spray chain lube (white lithium grease), there is less chatter from the window now. I also drained about a quart of ATF. It was overfull when checked hot and there were bubbles on the dipstick. I can never get the damn level right.

Measure the resistance of the ECTS - reference values are on EC-236 Do the same for the CKPS - EC-356