Towncivilian

Are you talking about the manual HVAC controls? If so, yes, those have two #74 bulbs. The two buttons (A/C and recirculation) use 12v microbulbs.

Took a bunch of crap out of my trunk. I wish I had some more time to get things done, but it's all just a bunch of small stuff so there's no harm in postponing it...

You don't need Seafoam in the crankcase if you've been running M1 for the past few oil changes. Engine oil is the only thing that belongs in your crankcase. There are better fuel system cleaners. Those containing polyether amines (PEA) such as Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, and Redline SI-1 are proven to clean without leaving behind their own deposits. Use something like Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner, Amsoil Power Foam, or Seafoam Deep Creep for top end cleaning.

Change your fuel filter.

Yeah, it just sticks up into the air from the top of the differential, should be easy to spot. I've read of some people slapping on tiny fuel filters at the end of the hose to prevent dirt, dust, and other airborne contaminants from entering. Is this a wise idea?

I meant a 96 or newer 5 speed, not auto trans, since 96+ FS5R30A has the corrected fill hole location as described in the TSB. 01+ RE4R01A will be the HD version.

the forum ate my post. 2WD and 4WD both have in pan strainers but based on photos they look slightly different. moot point now though. Get an auto HD trans, or 5 speed 96 or newer to get the correct fill hole location for your swap.

Yes, it's possible, just difficult and expensive. I do remember some member who works at a dealership pull this off. Check this thread out.

All Dexron fluids older than Dexron VI are now unlicensed, so technically you don't know what you're getting in that bottle labeled Dexron III since the fluid is not tested as part of licensing. However, this shouldn't be an issue, and Dexron III is fine to use. Good luck! Be sure to follow the torque specs - they're listed in this article at NICO. The article is for an R50 but the torque spec is identical for a WD21. Apply petroleum jelly to the transmission filter O-ring before installing it.

Found an Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-3207-Socket-Covers/dp/B00062YWMO For $7 I might not bother, I can live with the brighter light. Thanks for finding them, though!

Buy a service manual? Pfft, download a copy here.

The lower intake manifold must be removed to access the PCV system. Be sure to disconnect the PCV hose before attempting to pull the lower intake manifold, or you'll snap the PCV valve in half like I did. Use red threadlocker for the power valve screws, and make sure you replace all four gaskets (throttle body, both upper intake, and lower intake). Clean the throttle body thoroughly with throttle body cleaner spray only while it's off the intake. Provide your VIN if you need OEM part numbers for these. I don't think you should have PCV issues, especially if you have changed your oil & filter regularly. I have negligible oil consumption at 135k miles, maybe half a quart per 4k miles. I would just change it and leave it be. You can add a PCV catch can, see this post on NICO for an example set up.

You're doing it wrong. This is the proper way to check the automatic transmission fluid level, as described in the FSM: 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. Your dipstick will look slightly different, the pictured one is an R50 dipstick. Just make sure it's in the crosshatched area of the hot side of the dipstick after following the instructions.

You should do a pan drop and filter change anyway. You have no idea how the previous owner maintained it.

Check the transmission fluid to begin with: 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt.

The T-case has separate fluid and the fluids do not mix.

You need to start again following the FSM diagnostic procedure to the letter. If you get to step 10 (check camshaft) and don't have a result, you need to go to the dealer I think. The diagnosis procedure begins on page EC-489 of the factory service manual.

Didn't Optima switch manufacturers a few years ago and their newer batteries have turned to @!*% as a result?

Good luck!

Page RS-9 of the factory service manual has instructions on removal and replacement.

Ew, Lucas. Be sure you get a proper GL-4 fluid like Amsoil MTG or Redline MT90 for your next trans drain & fill. I'm not sure what to suggest about how to overfill without using the shifter hole, hopefully somebody else knows.

Sorry, from your first post the wording makes it seem like all parts are KYB.

KYB strut mounts are not recommended for R50s based on other members' experience. They might end up causing your problem.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, flush it out every 2 years. Check for animals nests in the air box. Get a good battery tender. Everything else should be good as long as you get everything nice and hot once in a while to boil off any accumulated moisture.

I'm pretty sure RockAuto ships to Canada, so RockAuto may be the cheaper option. You're welcome!