Towncivilian

VQ is distributorless. CKPS maybe? See component inspection in FSM and check both sensors' resistances.

Well, rule the vacuum hose for the cruise actuator first. See the bottom of this TSB: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/TSB/NTB01-057%20-%20REVISED%20MAINTENANCE%20PROCEDURES.pdf

Run ACSD diagnostics described on page EL-165 of the factory service manual. Welcome to NPORA!

WD40 is not a very good lubricant. Use some bar & chain lube or something instead. I think WalMart sells some chain lube in a spray can, it's like $7 though. Think it's in the motorcycle section. I need to lubricate my spare tire mechanism under my R50... I'll be down there to change the fuel filter soon anyway, just don't know what to use yet. I've got a ton of white lithium grease which would probably work fine. It looks nasty, but it doesn't matter under there.

You should install a Magnefine in-line filter (3/8") to prolong the fluid life and catch most future wear material. Or better yet, a spin-on filter kit with a very high efficiency filter. An aux cooler is a must as well.

Is it this that's leaking? http://www.courtesyparts.com/16391u-element-kit-thermo-pathfinder-r50-1996-2004-p-196302.html

Sorry, I meant 70268.

Absolutely get an auxiliary transmission cooler. B&M 70278 is 19k GVW and is a stacked-plate type design. It is thin enough to not have any clearance issues on WD21s. I'd also suggest installing a Magnefine in-line transmission filter. Do a complete fluid exchange via the transmission cooler line as well; use any fluid that claims to meet Dexron III specification.

If you have the FS5R30A transmission and you decide to take it to a trans shop and get internal work done, be sure to print out a copy of this TSB and bring it with you so they know to overfill the trans. Hopefully they'd know anyway, but it wouldn't hurt to give them a copy.

Manual trans fluid is amber like gear oil.

Check your fuse labeled "TAIL". The circuit should work if a bulb is dead.

Mine does this too, always has as far as I can remember. Never could figure out what it was exactly, it's probably the air outlet grilles at the very back side windows.

Why does it matter? Raybestos & Sachs options are within a couple bucks of the KYB strut mounts, so just get either of those brands instead and avoid any possible headaches. If you want OEM part numbers for the required fasteners too, provide your VIN and I can look them up for you.

Since the in-pan filter does not filter very finely (it's more like a rock catcher than a filter), I would leave it be.

I would not use them based on anecdotal evidence by other R50 owners. I went with Raybestos strut mount kits and they have been fine so far. Be sure to replace the three strut mount nuts, the upper center mount nuts, and lower strut mount nuts as the FSM states to replace them if removed.

Nissan recommends use of KP610-00250 as a sealer and for M/T only (??? see TF-8) but it's expensive as hell ($20 online). I would probably just use Permatex Ultra Grey in its place since there doesn't seem to be an aftermarket equivalent.

Cleaned the windows, they were filthy. I did that recently too ahardb0dy, I used some 303 Aerospace Protectant on the black cluster surround but some overspray got on the cluster lens and left white spots everywhere. I removed it and polished both sides with Meguiar's PlastX and it's mostly gone now, hardly noticeable. Much better.

The front combination housing is the amber front turn signal housing next to the headlights. I can pick up, yes. Does your driver door handle have resistance when you pull it?

I'd need the driver's side front combination housing, the driver door's exterior handle (if spring is intact) and hinges, the glove box slow open mechanism (if you have it), the ambient temperature sensor for the overhead console if its retaining clip is intact (if you have the overhead console)... I think that's it. What color is your interior?

You live an hour's drive away from me. If you're parting out, I would be interested in some minor small stuff probably.

There are coolant lines running into the throttle body to prevent icing of the throttle body in very cold weather and to warm up incoming air to help atomize fuel better. Pull the hoses off and check if the fittings are rusted out. Also check for damage in the hoses themselves.

Yes, all those should be changed as well as brake fluid if it has not been flushed within the last two years. There are fluids that specify compatibility with Matic D fluids and Nissan says a Dexron III fluid is suitable for replacement. I have Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle (recently renamed to Castrol Import Transmax I believe) and it shifts well in my Pathfinder. Use any synthetic ATF claiming to meet Dexron III or Dexron VI for the power steering fluid, as well as the transfer case fluid. You can use a turkey baster or suction gun to siphon & refill the power steering fluid every oil change, and change the transfer case fluid every 30k miles (more often if there is potential water entry). 75W-90 would be preferable for the differentials. Change the fluid every 30k miles (more often if there is potential water entry). Don't forget to grease your front driveshaft every oil change (more often if there is potential water entry). Use any NLGI No. 2 lithium soap base grease. You should not need to replace any filters or gaskets. The auto trans has a drain plug, but a more efficient method would be to do a full fluid exchange via the transmission cooler return line. You can find steps to this procedure in this thread on NICOclub, under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section.

A load sensing valve ... senses loads. Specifically, it senses the weight of the cargo in the rear of the vehicle and allocates more or less braking power as deemed necessary to the rear brakes. Techron might improve your gas mileage slightly if there's a lot of crap to clean out. Have you ever changed your fuel filter? How often do you change your engine air filter? Changing it too often can be detrimental to engine health since filters become more efficient as they load up with contaminants. Nonetheless, a dirty air filter has little affect on fuel economy on fuel injected vehicles as determined by an SAE study.

FSM page BF-53 has a wiring diagram which may be of help.

Pedal pressure should stay the same as long as there is not any air in the system. Do be aware that much of your pedal feel relies on the adjustment of your rear drum brakes, so you may want to have them cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted. LSV is the load sensing valve. If you look at your rear diff you'll see it. It's only on 4WD Pathfinders. The general info thread on NICO has bleeding instructions. Gum up the spark plugs? Haha, where did you read that nonsense? Techron, along with Gumout Regane, Redline SI-1, and a few other fuel system cleaners, contain polyether amines (PEA) which cleans effectively without leaving behind its own deposits as other solvent-based cleaners do. It was co-developed by BMW and Chevron.