88pathoffroad

It's on top of the transmission at the very rear.

You can use some rubber vacuum caps to plug off the stock holes, or leave them open if you want. It won't have anything in it anymore and I doubt dirt will hurt it if you're not going to use the stock cooler anymore. I think the driver's side hose is the pressurized line. IIRC.

The PVC valve is on that side. Perhaps it's pulling an excessive amount of oil vapor through the PVC valve into the intake as part of the problem?

Replace it? That's weird, it breaks CV's with the swaybar still attached?

Just a note, it's not possible to "flip the PVC valve" on a Pathy. It screws into the intake.

Nope, they're stock replacements exactly like you get at your auto parts stores. I don't believe there exist stronger or better CV's for Pathys at this time. I'd love a set if someone made them.

On what, an aftermarket alarm? Read your instruction manual, I guess. What year and model?

You can simply unbolt one side and let it hang. That will effectively disconnect it and let you have full rear axle travel.

That's fine, it shouldn't hurt anything.

Pop the little vented panel on the inside near the gas door. There's a little release latch inside there for the door. IIRC.

Actually, that was stainless scrap from a metal-fab shop I used to work at as a temp. They used to let me go through the scrap bins. I have more! My brother is in the HVAC biz and I have four ceiling return air vents from an office building with the same type of mesh on them, around 3'x3'. I saved 'em for the same type of project in the future. BTW, Harbor Freight sells security tool bit-sets you can use on those fasteners.

From what I've seen, fueling is rarely an issue unless the ECU error codes have a code stored for a leaking or misfiring injector. Most of the time poor idle/throttle response is from bad sensors or vaccuum/air leaks.

Ah, BG-44K. Good stuff.

Check engine mounts and the trans/t-case mount for play or looseness too.

That should be 2800 RPM's, actually.

Yeah, it's just paint scrapes, not real hard rubs.

Clean your MAF sensor too.

Some people have had luck replacing just the single wire from the relay to the starter. Seems like it was a resistance problem complicated by the age of the wiring.

Nightmare? Pfeh. Propane torch. Done in less than 15 minutes. Done it on at least 3 sets of UCA's.

Full droop = jack it up until the front wheels no longer touch the ground.

There's also: http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=156038

Funny you should say that. My rear DS has rub marks right where the x-member is...is that bad?

Noisy? HELL YEAH! http://nissan.damagedreality.com/SwampersLoud2MB.wmv

Oh CRAP. That's something you don't want to hear. If it whirrs or sounds kinda like a gear drive on a V8 or a supercharger, it means the t-belt is too tight. I did that one time. Had to tear everything off and re-tension it. I took it in to a Nissan dealership before taking everything back off and asked a head tech to listen to it. He concurred, it was too tight and the cam sprockets *can* break off the end of the cams if it's too tight. Easy way to check tension on the belt: with the timing cover off, grab the belt between the two cam sprockets. You should be able to twist the belt 90 degrees by hand. No more, no less. The Nissan head tech gave me that tip.

There are VSS gears as far as I know. Dealer-only item, if they can figure out how to look them up.