88pathoffroad

On the Oregon side, mine has no rust. I've dunked it into the ocean a few times, too. Most of the junkyard Pathys I see over here are rust-free as well. My 83 Impulse is rust-free, my 83 Chevy van is as well. Little brother's 85 S-10 Blazer is in remarkable condition, no problems at all on that one. Then again, the 89 Pathy I bought (wrecked) had rust everywhere underneath (it primarily resided in the mountains way out in the country). The frame was OK but the body was another story. I think about seven out of every ten bolts I attempted to remove either stripped out or broke off. Good luck on a class action suit for vehicles this old...I don't think they have liability any more.

It should be separate...the controller slides off it's mounting tab and it simply unplugs. Install should be a toughie.

I'd say that if it has been underwater it needs to have the the relays in the interior kick panels and the ECU connectors inside under the carpet examined for corrosion, the grounds all need to be removed, cleaned and re-bolted, and it wouldn't hurt to remove the top cover of the ECU to examine the motherboard for corrosion. The spare ECU you got could be bad also, you never can tell. Oh, and do NOT attempt to ohm out pins on the ECU, your voltmeter can damage it if you get the right pins shorted or run even a small amount of voltage through them. I'm sorry you're having such a terrible time trying to get it to run right, but if it's been dunked there are a LOT of things that could be wrong with it. How deep was it sunk? Any ideas?

It drops the mounts for the front diff, the torsion bars on both ends(front and rear) and includes a knuckle adapter that bolts to the stock steering. It is a true 4" lift kit, unlike just UCA's and t-bar cranking.

Google Thorley headers....

They seem to bank on people being misled by generic pictures and descriptions. I'm sorry, dude.

Haven't you learned yet that NOTHING for a Pathy is easy to find or cheap?

That IS incredible. I don't believe a front LSD was EVER an option. I wonder if a dealership did that as a promo or if a tech decided to put it in for some reason. Maybe it was an import mod? heh.

I can get rear axles for a 87-95 all day long at my local junkyard. They wanted $200 IIRC. For the whole thing. Tried car-part.com?

Yep, that's the stabilizer bar or sway bar. Might as well take it off and see how she drives without it. Lots of people on here don't have theirs on still. Me included.

Sounds like something internal has let go. There's nothing that should prevent shifting into reverse on a manual trans aside from forward movement.

Once again, use a v-belt pulley wrench to hold the pulley while you loosen or tighten the crank bolt. Or put an old belt back on it and use vise-grips or something to squeeze the belt together in the middle, that should provide enough friction to prevent the crank from turning.

Here's a thread from N4W...apparently this dude ordered a CL from the L&P website 2 weeks ago and got it already. http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tp...3/m/19410749041

Here's the link to NissanHelp.com on the same subject...read up! http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/...urning-oil.html

Do you have a voltmeter? You can test the TPS to make sure it works...or not. Let me know and I can post a scanned page from my factory service manual.

Ever tried your key on another Pathy? Mine's opened several other Nissans at the junkyard. A 99 cent pocketknife with the right size blade will also open almost ANY 80's era Honda, Toyota, Nissan or what-have-you if you jiggle it enough. The driver's side door locks get sloppy cause they're the ones that get used 99% of the time.

I second the taillight guard cheesiness comment. I've seen too many people bump into something lightly and totally ruin the taillight AND the surrounding sheetmetal.

The coil spring seats are also larger, dunno about the control arms, etc. Perhaps someone else will chime in with a pic or two?

Bleed them well first, then manually adjust the adjusters through the access hole in the backing plate.

Man, that sucks...sorry to see the carnage. Perhaps a slightly longer front shock would be a help on that issue. If the bumpstops are missing the front suspension can cycle too far and pull the CV's apart, cause overextension of the shocks, etc. Drive carefully and slowly when offroading, and replace those bumpstops.

Be thankful you have some! None of the XE's and some of the SE's from 87-95 didn't have any at all.

Could air be in the rack and pinion?

Yowza! Order more and sell them on Ebay for twice the price, it'd still be a good deal.

CV's have nothing to do with steering effort AFAIK.

Replace the scratched parts? I had PRISTINE cargo area panels until I let a buddy drive it...he tossed a big ugly steamer-type box in the back and the metal corners about ruined the sides in there. Arsehole. Anyway. Other than replacing, I can't think of anything.