88pathoffroad

They share the same transmission designation, the only difference AFAIK is the speed sensor. The 95 has an electronic speedo, the 92 has a mechanical one. *wacks brain for correct info* Well, I think that's the cut-off date. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I believe they can be swapped and the 92 tranny will work fine.

You need an alignment. Whenever you mess with the torsion bars, the toe and camber will change and need adjustment afterward. Wait till the alignment is done to see how the steering feels, it will feel way different if the alignment is off sometimes.

I would definitely save my duckets and coins and buy a set if I could get them that cheap. They're $500 from NISMO or Nissan IIRC. I need R200 gears too. I won't have money for an SAS for a LONG time and I need to keep it IFS, that means re-gearing it to make it more useable...and it's not getting re-geared at $500 per axle. No way in hell. I bet TONS of other people would jump on the chance to get cheaper gears. If I remember right, they used a 10-bolt ring gear for some H233B diffs and a 12 bolt for others, so you may want to figure out the most commonly used pattern and go with that as a starter, unless the gear company is willing to do two designs for the same axle as a first run or something.

I seem to remember reading somewhere else that some Pathys don't have a CEL for some reason. Weird, huh?

Check your cap and rotor, plug wires and clean the MAF sensor as a start. Check your MAF sensor wiring, they're notorious for contacting the hood and messing up the plug.

The stock cooler inlet and outlets are on the bottom of the radiator. External coolers were not stock.

The Power mode should be activated by the throttle switch under your gas pedal. Give that some adjustment?

Your main problem is your choice of base vehicle. You have a unibody with an IFS front end. There's essentially nothing to cut and weld to in order to fab solid axle parts TO. You also have rack and pinion steering, which will have to be changed to something a little more useable on a solid axle if and when you ever get one under there.

$2.69 here at Arco.

Get LTB's, they're what all the cool kids have.

Mine had 96k on it when I bought it. SCORE!

It's in the Garage How-To section.

31mm and 30 as far as I can tell.

You could try unhooking the cooler lines and sticking a hose on the end of the driver's side tube, that should be the pressurized side IIRC. If you crank it and you get fluid, the pump is pumping...

I bet if you DO find them they'll cost you $750 a pair anyway.

Just comfort yourself by remembering that it's just a caR50.

Pull the driver's side master window switch and check that for loose connections or broken soldering inside. Common complaint. It could be something else, but I'd check there first.

Hey, lots of people custom build manifolds for different cars. Don't let the lack of a kit bring you down.

Ditto...you have to pull the other belts first, then the upper t-belt cover to even look at it.

Open up the door panel and have a look inside. Lube is likely all that's needed.

If it reads OK with a voltmeter then it's probably just the dash gauge that's reading wrong.

But does it shift the same at all times? Perhaps the bulb is popped but it still works?

Could just be that the switch is shot. Does it still come on when you floor the gas pedal?

Here's the fix for the fuel and temp gauges... http://nissan.damagedreality.com/NissanVoltRegFix.pdf The oil pressure switch above the oil filter may be unplugged. Take a look through the fenderwell.

Not that I've heard of unless there's rust involved.